I have a 95 Nissan XE Pickup. I have been having a slow cranking starter for about 1.5 years now. I have replaced the starter twice, checked the timing, replaced the Clutch Relay, Negative battery cable, and had the battery checked.
New spark plugs and wires.
However, when I changed the spark plug wires I noticed that the wire leading to cylinder #4 had corroded away and was not making any connection to the actual spark plug. This corrosion happened at the distributor cap.
When I adjusted the timing it was initially on TDC so I put it back to factory specs. It seems the starter got worse.
Battery has been checked and appears to be ok.
When the timing it adjusted to TDC (or that mark on the pulley) it seems to start on every crank, however the engine is very sluggish. W
With the timing set correctly it runs perfect, just needs help starting, mostly when hot.
I am going to install a new clutch safety switch (or whatever its called) that above the clutch pedal.
Any thoughts? Positive cable?, if so is this replacement difficult, I haven't found any write up about it, I am worried about not being able to properly reconnect the fuseable links.
I didn't think there was a fuseable link that was associate with the starter, I was thinking the problem was the positive cable, and I was curious how big of a pain it would be to replace. The positive cable from Nissan is like $189 I didn't know if I could get by with a non OEM cable.
The starter relay should be on the passenger side of the engine compartment right? However I thought it was labeled clutch safety relay. Am I look at the wrong one?
How could this be another bad starter?
When the timing is retarded too far, it starts everytime like a champ. Its just the engine doesn't perform.
This doesn't add up to me, plus every mechanic has given me a different situation.
Don't worry about getting the OEM cable. I can't use the OEM cable because of the added electronics ( 2 amps, Viper security ). The only advantage to the OEM is it's lack of contact points where corrosion can occure. Just get the correct length and gauge red cable and add the right bolt on ends and you'll be fine. You just have to use baking soda in water and a toothbrush, and occasionally unbolt the ends and wire brush them.
The starter is there under the intake manifold and held on with two 14 mm headed long bolts from the front top and bottom bolt fron the back side transmission side. A couple 3" extensions and 14mm socket and bloody knuckles. You will have the feeling of a mechanic. Just disconnect the battery first 10mm battery clamp. The battery terminal at the starter is a 12mm nut and don't forget to reconnect the battery ground under the starter bolt from the back side.
Yes, I was thinking about doing the timing chain, however I am currently seeking to sell this truck to get another vehicle.
There is a rattle when cold, lasts for about 30 seconds, then stops. Happens about once per day, I figured it was the timing chain tensioner.
Although, the starting issue happened again today, after the engine was good and hot, I sat in a parking lot with the truck running for about 15 minutes, the temp gauge was a little over halfway. I shut it off to see how it would react, and behold, it didn't want to turn over. Once the engine cooled for another 15 minutes it started ok.
While starting that time I did notice the oil light flicker once...maybe twice..thats something I didn't ever notice it doing before.
Possible bad oil pump? Maybe when the engine is really hot, the oil pump is effecting the starting?
I have noticed that when the truck is in gear and I push on the accelerator I get a ticking that seems to correspond to the rpms. At idle it is silent. Sometimes I don't get this ticking, sometimes I do...could this also be an oil pump failure on its way?
I sure probably hook up a gauge to check the oil pump.
Thanks for helping everyone, hopefully I can fix this issue so the next owner won't have any issues except to replace the timing chain soon.
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