93" D21 electrical problems, please help!!! - Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old Oct 29th, 2008, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 93" D21 electrical problems, please help!!!

Hello, I am a new member of the forum and I just bought my first vehicle which is a 1993 Nissan D21 4x4. It's the 2.4L 4cyl. After I bought the truck the battery went dead, so naturally I went to wal mart and got a new battery. Later that week the battery died again at another wal mart so we clutch started the engine. On the way home (with my dad) the engine started shaking and it almost died, all the electrical stuff like the radio was cutting out. We made it home thank god and charged the battery. We later tested the battery at wal mart and it checked out ok so we went home. We tested the battery across the +and- with a multimeter and it started around 12.6V while at idle and revving, the voltage and kept dropping. We naturally took out the alternator and had it tested to see if that was our problem, it checked out fine. We also looked over the battery cables and they were good. We tried a 2nd battery and it died to after the same electrical malfunctions occurred while my dad was driving it. I have a feeling it might be the fusible link on the positive cable but I am not sure. Could anyone please help me diagnose this problem?

ps. you guys rock!!

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post #2 of 8 Old Oct 29th, 2008, 10:17 PM
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clean and service the fusible links just to be sdure.

on one of these site i remeber someone saying something about a regulator behind the odometer..

all my trucks are the earlier version so i did not pay much attention to it.

try calling a nissan dealer parts counter and ask them about it??

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post #3 of 8 Old Oct 30th, 2008, 03:25 AM
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While you checking things, make sure all the connectors, and grounds are clean. Any place wires are together, relays, bodys ground, etc. I used an elctrical contact cleaner on all the connections. Just be careful with the connections. Don't force them apart, and don't pull on the wires.
I am in the midwest like you, and with the temperature changes, and the humidity, they can get dirty. Plus, if you bought this from a lot, it might not have been ran steady for a while, letting the connections to start oxidizing.
Good Luck with your new truck!!!

Last edited by brookwood61; Oct 30th, 2008 at 03:35 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old Oct 30th, 2008, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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thank you guys so much, hope for more suggestions
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post #5 of 8 Old Oct 30th, 2008, 04:09 PM
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There are only 3 fusible links,
1.Headlight circuit
2.Power supply (ign/acc at fuse box)
3.Power supply (batt at fuse box)
Stock colors are 1. gree 2. green 3.black

The alt should charge the batt at 14.4 to 15 volts.
Even if the battery was not getting a charge due to a loose wire or melted link, the alt should keep the car running.

The voltage regulator is inside the alt. It could be possible that it fails as it heats up, thats why it tested good. you'd have to run it on the tester for half an hour to get it to fail.

I had an alt that the ECM in my Dodge Caravan said was going bad, it tested fine at Autozone but I replaced it anyway. I haven't gotten the Alt error code since.

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post #6 of 8 Old Nov 1st, 2008, 03:00 PM
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The "regulator" mentioned in post #2 is the dashboard voltage regulator for the fuel/coolant gauge and has nothing to do with the alternator, which has an internal regulator.

First thing to do is to turn the key to "ON" and make sure the charging system warning light illuminates. If it doesn't, check the warning lamp bulb and circuit. If the bulb is burnt out, your charging system will not operate properly. If the warning lamp circuit is good, check for power to the back of the alternator; there should be a 10 gauge, white wire attached to the "BAT" connection on the alternator. This is the power feed to the alternator. Sometimes this wire gets burnt up or corroded and will need to be repaired. If there is no power there, check the circuit back to the battery and check the fusible links.
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post #7 of 8 Old Nov 1st, 2008, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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I have installed a reman nissan alternator that tested good at checker. My truck now charges the battery at idle but the voltage starts dropping as I rev. There is also now som squealing.
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post #8 of 8 Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 06:50 AM
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Make Sure the belt is good (not cracked, or glazed on the sides), clean, and tight. Make sure the pulley is clean too. I usually wipe down the pulleys, when new, or when changing a belt. I use brake clean, sprayed on a rag, not directly on the pulley. A glazed belt, will slip on a new pulley. Change the belt, if it is old. Winter is coming.
Good Luck
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