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General Maxima Discussion For general Maxima discussion


       
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Old Feb 6th, 2003, 11:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
Chazzyd
 
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Anyone replaced half-shafts?

Hi,

I've got a 95 Maxima SE with 188K miles. I am getting some clicking from the front end whenever I turn. I was told I need Half-shafts... at $240 a piece.

Anyone here had theirs replaced?
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Old Feb 10th, 2003, 07:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
NoKTournAL
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Re: Anyone replaced half-shafts?

Quote:
Originally posted by Chazzyd
Hi,

I've got a 95 Maxima SE with 188K miles. I am getting some clicking from the front end whenever I turn. I was told I need Half-shafts... at $240 a piece.

Anyone here had theirs replaced?
$240 a piece ... local parts store, $150 I think...
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Old Feb 10th, 2003, 10:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
Chazzyd
 
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$110 ...

I talked to a fellow student who recommended his mechanic. This guy quoted the half-shafts at $110.

I don't know what the other guy was thinking. Some mechanics are just too greedy and they think we're all dumb.
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Old Feb 11th, 2003, 05:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
NoKTournAL
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Re: $110 ...

Quote:
Originally posted by Chazzyd
I talked to a fellow student who recommended his mechanic. This guy quoted the half-shafts at $110.

I don't know what the other guy was thinking. Some mechanics are just too greedy and they think we're all dumb.
That sounds about right. I bought my own CV shafts from AutoZone and did the job myself, PITA, but I know the job was done right.
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Old Feb 11th, 2003, 05:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
Chazzyd
 
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My father was a mechanic... with ever tool in the world. When he died, my step mom (Evil whore) sold all his tools before we went into probate. She said they were all stolen, but she never filed a police report... which tells me... she sold everthing.

I don't have enough tools to complete such a job right now... unless all it takes is a drill and a hammer!
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Old Feb 11th, 2003, 06:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chazzyd
My father was a mechanic... with ever tool in the world. When he died, my step mom (Evil whore) sold all his tools before we went into probate. She said they were all stolen, but she never filed a police report... which tells me... she sold everthing.

I don't have enough tools to complete such a job right now... unless all it takes is a drill and a hammer!
Jack, jack stands, 17mm sockets, 19mm sockets, 22mm wrench, Loan-a-Tool via Autozone for Axle Nut Socket, pliers for cotter pins...don't forget to buy new ones, small chisel + hammer, and a long pole to gain leverage on the lower control arm.
BTW remove 1 side @ a time

4 hours of hell, but worked.
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Old Feb 13th, 2003, 09:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by NoKTournAL
Jack, jack stands, 17mm sockets, 19mm sockets, 22mm wrench, Loan-a-Tool via Autozone for Axle Nut Socket, pliers for cotter pins...don't forget to buy new ones, small chisel + hammer, and a long pole to gain leverage on the lower control arm.
BTW remove 1 side @ a time

4 hours of hell, but worked.
I spent 8 hours doing it in a parking lot, but I got it done for under $100...

Autozone will rent you all the tools you need for free. You have to put down a deposit, which is the same price as buying them, but when you bring them back you get a complete refund. Pretty sweet deal.

There are a ton of write ups on it online, try Maxima.org and hit the SEARCH button for the 4th gen forum. Good luck!
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Old Feb 19th, 2003, 01:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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the trick to this install is leverage, I dropped over four trannies and you will need a crow bar and a 2-3foot long, 2.5-4 inch diameter fence pipe. Never push or pull on the crow bar to remove the half shafts from the tranny twist left or right. The fence pipe you will use as leverage to place it on the bottom end of the crowbar and twist left or right. It will come off in a couple of mins. Trust me on this one
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Last edited by Ruben : Feb 21st, 2003 at 08:19 PM.
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Old Feb 19th, 2003, 06:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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jay 25, yeah I had to midnight run a pipe from my local park's bike rack.

A nice 4ft section of 2" piping.

sweet ride.
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Old Feb 20th, 2003, 07:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
jay25
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http://maxima.cardomain.com/id/jay26


my car is on this website sorry.
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Old Feb 20th, 2003, 07:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jay25
http://maxima.cardomain.com/id/jay26


my car is on this website sorry.
Wow, nice run. I'm not big on 4th gens, never have been, but you have a sweet, sweet ride there....

Hat's off 2 u, bro!
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Old Feb 20th, 2003, 07:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
jay25
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thanks for the compliment. Your car must RWD? right?

it would have been nice if Nissan would have made our cars RWD vice FWD, numbers would have been nicer on the track.
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Old Feb 20th, 2003, 06:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jay25
thanks for the compliment. Your car must RWD? right?

it would have been nice if Nissan would have made our cars RWD vice FWD, numbers would have been nicer on the track.
Why not an AWD Maxima ? lol
I'm happy the maxima is the way it is, carry gf and friends in comfort, i can have my fun after i drop her off.
I doubt I'll ever exploit the full potential of my car, straightline granted I've pushed my car as far as I could, but my only bitch is the brakes. the brakes suck, my STILLEN rotors cracked, and the pads for my car are different from 4th gens, which they were designed for. Looked at fastbrakes, but i read somewhere bigger does not always better
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Old Feb 21st, 2003, 06:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by NoKTournAL
Why not an AWD Maxima ? lol
I'm happy the maxima is the way it is, carry gf and friends in comfort, i can have my fun after i drop her off.
I doubt I'll ever exploit the full potential of my car, straightline granted I've pushed my car as far as I could, but my only bitch is the brakes. the brakes suck, my STILLEN rotors cracked, and the pads for my car are different from 4th gens, which they were designed for. Looked at fastbrakes, but i read somewhere bigger does not always better
With rotors, especially cross-drilled, it is extremely important they get beyond the recommended break-in period.

Bigger is better, if you have the calipars to match it.
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Old Feb 21st, 2003, 05:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by nismo1989
With rotors, especially cross-drilled, it is extremely important they get beyond the recommended break-in period.

Bigger is better, if you have the calipars to match it.
bought X-drilled rotors and pads from STILLEN, broke them in over 300mi light brakeing during break-in. Once I got comfy with the brakes I usually 'buzz' highways late nites, but obviously I have to brake for slower traffic or suspicious cars(cops)
I don't condone this activity, but I have had a close call in NY, in long island, I had to brake from 130mph to as slow as i could in 300ft or so, after that, my brakes went to poop. bled the brakes at mechanics place, even got Motul fluid, and goodridge SS lines, never really felt the same, not enough bite. by the time my pads wore down, i needed new pads, and it was found that my stillen rotors had cracks where they were drilled. Went back to OE stuff, new rotors, new pads, new brake hardware, i know i've warped them, which brings me back to square one, why I went and blew $800 w/ stillen. I found out about 300ZX brake conversion, but I wish there was a kit for my car, I could get calipers and rotors, but lines need custom made ?
its snow outside so for now i'll live with it.
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