I located a leak in a 1996 Maxima 3.0 liter VQ30DE. It is between the engine block and the rear timing plate. Is there a weep hole at this point that indicates the water pump is the problem, or is this compromised RTV seal problem between the block and the rear timing plate?
The water pump will leak down behind the alternator and a/c compressor. I'm not excactly sure where you are talking about, but, the water pump will not leak at the back of the engine.
The water pump will leak down behind the alternator and a/c compressor. I'm not excactly sure where you are talking about, but, the water pump will not leak at the back of the engine.
Thank you for the reply Mech361!
There are two face-plates (front and rear) that sandwich the timing chain/sprocket cavity. This is all located on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Where the rear face-pate mates to the (front) engine block, is the location of the leak. I'm familiar with external water pumps having a weep hole to indicate a bad seal. Does the internal water pump on the Nissan VQ30DE engine have a similar symptom? Or does this leak between the rear timing plate cover and the front of the engine block indicate a different problem?
The only other leak I've seen here was a head gasket, but, that is very rare. If the water pump is leaking , it will usually leak behind the alternator and run down the side of the block (and drip off the bottom of the a/c compressor.)
If you don't move the A/C compressor out of the way, the leak would drip off the bottom side of the A/C compressor. Since I un-bolted the A/C unit, I can see where it leaks, right where the rear timing chain cover mates to the engine block. I inspected a new water pump and I noted that there are "weep" holes between the two O-rings. I assume that when the water pump bearing/seal fails, it has to leak out somewhere.
How do you slide the water pump past the timing chain? I can't move the chain far enough out of the way. Do I need to use longer bolts to draw/press the pump close enough, so the shorter stock flange bolts can reach?
You will have to remove the timing chain tensioner, behind the other plate on the front of the timing cover. Be very careful!! the service manual says to push the tensioner all the way in and pin it. I've done several and I've never been able to get the tensioner in far enough to pin it with the tensioner in the vehicle, so I take the tensioner out then pin it before I put it back in. DON'T drop the bolts down in the timing cover. Make sure the engine is on top dead center before you start. Turn the crank just enough to put the timing chain slack on the tensioner side, remove the tensioner, then turn the crank the other way just enough to put the slack on the water pump side. The chain should now be loose enough to allow the water pump to come out. Reverse this to put it back together again. Be prepared ,the timing chain will make a lot of noise when you start the engine.
You will have to remove the timing chain tensioner, behind the other plate on the front of the timing cover. Be very careful!! the service manual says to push the tensioner all the way in and pin it. I've done several and I've never been able to get the tensioner in far enough to pin it with the tensioner in the vehicle, so I take the tensioner out then pin it before I put it back in. DON'T drop the bolts down in the timing cover. Make sure the engine is on top dead center before you start. Turn the crank just enough to put the timing chain slack on the tensioner side, remove the tensioner, then turn the crank the other way just enough to put the slack on the water pump side. The chain should now be loose enough to allow the water pump to come out. Reverse this to put it back together again. Be prepared ,the timing chain will make a lot of noise when you start the engine.
We were able to pin the tensioner, without removing it. I successfully moved the crankshaft two complete revolutions without getting enough timing chain slack, to install the new pump. Will removing the tensioner give me more timing chain slack?
Don't rotate the engine with the tensioner pinned or removed!!! You should not have to move the crankshaft more than about 20 degrees to get the slack you need. You're not ,by any chance ,trying to put the chain to the outside of the water pump are you? The chain rides to the inside of the pump. I can tell you, from personal experience, it will not go around the outside of the pump.
Don't rotate the engine with the tensioner pinned or removed!!! You should not have to move the crankshaft more than about 20 degrees to get the slack you need. You're not ,by any chance ,trying to put the chain to the outside of the water pump are you? The chain rides to the inside of the pump. I can tell you, from personal experience, it will not go around the outside of the pump.
I did rotate the engine ... but I heald tension on the chain so it stayed engaged on the gears. I saw how the chain rides on the inside of the water pump gear ... so I didn't try to route the the chain on the outside.
When removing the tensioner/plunger assembly, is there a seal/gasket that will need to be replaced?
Mech361.
thanks for your information. I am also trying to swap out my water pump on a 1996 Maxima. I too couldn't pin the tensioner, so I removed the two bolts and removed the body. There is a cylinder in the tensioner body, that looks like it should have a spring in it. Is there a spring that might have dropped down inside? The chain guide is hinged underneth the main cover, so that didn't come out with the tensioner body. If there's not a spring, I'm guessing that tension is applied through hydraulics.
Thanks..
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