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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 08:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
10secondTA
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Hey newb...opinions??

First off Im a newb here so whats up everyone? I currently have a 77TA that runs 10s on the juice that is my playtoy/racecar...Anyways I was thinking about getting maybe an SE-R or something to use as a fun reliable daily driver. I have been looking at options to find some good deals and my dads friend brought the idea of online auto auctions to my attention...He bought a 94Caddy from one about a year ago and it has been great to him since so I looked into it more and came across this place that compiled a few auto auction sites and was wanting to get some opinions..
Thanks
-Chris

click here to see what Im talking about
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 08:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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SE-r like mid 90's ser or early 2000's ser and spec V???

i love my spec
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 08:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd use your local dealer. The only thing I don't like about car auctions is that you never know what you're really getting in an auction. They don't let you look underneath the hood or anything like that...just my opinion.
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 09:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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my friend buys cars from the auctions all the time. Then fixes them and re-sells them. He researches alot and knows what he's getting into before he bids though. But he makes pretty good money when he gets with it. He currently has one for a daily driver. No problems...
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 11:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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auctions can be a great place to find a car cheap... just remember the old cliche... if it seems to good to be true.... it probaby is....
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Old Mar 10th, 2004, 02:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd get a B13 SE-R(91-94). They are pretty cheap usually, and are fun to drive. I would look for a private owner though since auctions can be problematic. You do not get a test drive and the fact that it can drive up on the auction block tells you little about the condition of the car. SR20's tend to have cooling problems due to a poor waterpump design, so look out for signs of overheating when shopping for one. I would also consider a 91 and newer 240SX. Excellent handling balance and an almost unstoppable KA24DE engine( I have 209,000 miles on the same engine in my Frontier) that can take boost relatively well or is swappable to numerous Skyline or Sylvia engines.
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Old Mar 10th, 2004, 07:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by himilefrontier
I'd get a B13 SE-R(91-94). They are pretty cheap usually, and are fun to drive. I would look for a private owner though since auctions can be problematic. You do not get a test drive and the fact that it can drive up on the auction block tells you little about the condition of the car. SR20's tend to have cooling problems due to a poor waterpump design, so look out for signs of overheating when shopping for one.

Actually, the flawed waterpump design of the SR20 causes water cavitation at the higher rpm range(6500 and above), because of which the motor temperature can go up fast. This problem can be accommodated for by things such as:

1) 300ZX TT radiator cap. This cap raises the boiling point of the coolant, therefore making it carry away more heat from the motor.

2) Underdrive pullies, which slow down the water pump to help it deliver coolant efficiently at the higher rpm range.

3) A new re-designed water pump that helps ease the cavitation issue.

I'm sure the regular Joe doesn't drive the SE-R at such a high rpm (those who have no idea about what the SE-Rs are about at least). The water pump problem is not so bad and won't show any signs of issues on the motor unless the car has been run constantly at drag races, autocross, or other motorsport competitions. Even then many cars won't show any problems.
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 07:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Could someone move this to general or to my section?
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Last edited by Harris : Mar 12th, 2004 at 07:26 AM.
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