monkeygrease42

I have a 97 altima with manual and 96,000
My clutch is on its way out (slipping at high revs) but yesterday when trying to start I pressed the clutch like normal, it felt normal but the car was acting as if I hadn't depressed the clutch pedal (It would not start)
While panicking I pressed the pedal hard and she started clean as always.
It worked all day , but this morning decided to have the same issue.
I checked the clutch fluid and found it to be very low.
Is my clutch done?, The pedal itself is still springy and I don't think its the clutch cable. I've replaced a clutch once before on a pulsar and am bewildered by this, any comments appreciated.

 

monkeygrease42

I've also checked the clutch saftey switch and it being depressed as normal,
I have 2 sets of keys of course neither work, checked all my fuses but haven't yet got to all the switches,While inspecting the wires under steering column I noticed a cut wire.,Tomorrow I'm going to see if I can find the other end.
I think my problem lies with the clutch safety switch itself or the cut wire or possibly somthing else, all else seems to be fine.
anybody heard of this sort of issue???

monkeygrease42

to update you all ,all fuses and switches appear to be alright the cut wire under dash is coming from radio area so that isn't the culprit. I'm going out today and I'am going to get a new clutch safety switch. Is there a way to bypass that switch or can I test switch itself by isolating it somehow?
Any help appreciated greatly

monkeygrease42

Another update, the car roll starts fine and while driving I didn't notice anything unusual other than a clutch thats slipping slightly.
Funny thing is once I stopped the car It starts back up without any problems Is the clutch up to something funky ?? Now I don't think its the clutch safety switch.Is everyone as stumped as me???

Kooskia

I`ve ran into that problem in the past your problem is that becouse of the
wear on the clutch the shaft in the slave cylinder moves further and further
out in order to enguage the clutch and becouse of that the fluid can run
past the seal but only when you push the pedal eventually theres not enough
fluid to run the shaft out far enough to enguage the lockout device. If there
is an adjustment to the shaft lengthining it a few turns may allow you to get
a few more miles out of the clutch.

 

monkeygrease42

Thank you so much Kooskia your perfectly right.
I talked to my mechanic today and he mentioned loss of fluid and the slave cylinder, hopefully we can adjust it a little. I feel like the clutch has some life left (hopefully since I need to start saving money). How much does your average clutch job cost at a typical shop.

KraZThug

All you need is a disk unless your presure plate is damaged but it should run between 150 and 300 with labor and all. Its better to replace it then putting more fluid in and try to extend the life of the disk + im sure u wont get much more out of it.

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Darktide

If you are going to do the job correctly the set you buy at the autoparts store actually includes the pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, and the clutch disc. On top of that you should get the flywheel resurfaced everytime you do a clutch as an uneven flywheel surface can cause clutch chatter/slippage. That's doing it properly, but never just do a disc. You're already in there so you might as well do it correctly.

Darktide

KA24Tech

I agree with Darktide you should get all those parts to do it right. The clutch is on its way out and you are definitely doing stop gap fixes. Nissan has the value line of parts which are just as cheap as many discount parts store but better quality. The flywheel is something I would resurface if the surface is scorched.

Troy

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monkeygrease42

Well, its been awhile since the last post on my 97 altima 5 speed
Me and My mechanic pal replaced the clutch(also my left axel{boot was ripped}was installed)I learned alot about my car epecially since it took us 10 straight hours lol.Anyhow I drove her away with a brand new clutch and front end(I replaced the other axel about 3 months ago). She drove like never before. The car started fine for 1 day and now will not start unless rolled or If I can reach and its not raining tap the solenoid on the starter.
I figure my solenoid on the starter is done.
Since I can't afford the starter right now (190 + 60 core) I bought a
chiltons , multimeter, sandpaper, and some electric systems degreaser(which is making me into a noob mechanic)
Anyhow, I was wondering if If I should get the OEM starter rebuilt?
From what I've read in the forum(and I've read alot lately)
starters aren't very reliable rom 3rd party manufacurers.
I would get the starter bench tested but i don't have a jack and can't really get to it unless the car is lifted
I'm convinced I've isolated it to the starter.
(I haven't used the meter yet to be sure)
This thread started as my clutch cylinder not engaging and replacing my clutch yet the starter was bad (not clicking or turning over) alongside my slipping clutch. I'll write another post when I have the starter
working/replaced.
I hope this post helps someone out there down the road, no pun intnd.