I bought this car, a 97 200sx, about 3 months ago in perfect condition for 1,500. The reason it was so cheap was because it made this crazy loud rattling from under the hood on idle. The guy said it was the timing gears. about 1 1/2 months, in a rush, i reversed and when into 1st it stalled out and never started again. It almost did once but sputtered and jumped around. I opened up the top and noticed the gear that has the upper and lower chain had a tooth missing and the markings were off so i think it jumped teeth. So i bought a timing set that came with all the gears and chains and tensioners. so today i tried taking off the dual gear but it seems impossible to get the lower chain off do i have to completely dissasseble the engine? i have the top and the side off exsposing the gears. I've never attempted something like this should i just take it to a shop or is there a easy way to get this gear off. Thanks.
Last edited by Jer_ry : Apr 26th, 2005 at 10:20 PM.
I bought this car, a 97 200sx, about 3 months ago in perfect condition for 1,500. The reason it was so cheap was because it made this crazy loud rattling from under the hood on idle. The guy said it was the timing gears. about 1 1/2 months, in a rush, i reversed and when into 1st it stalled out and never started again. It almost did once but sputtered and jumped around. I opened up the top and noticed the gear that has the upper and lower chain had a tooth missing and the markings were off so i think it jumped teeth. So i bought a timing set that came with all the gears and chains and tensioners. so today i tried taking off the dual gear but it seems impossible to get the lower chain off do i have to completely dissasseble the engine? i have the top and the side off exsposing the gears. I've never attempted something like this should i just take it to a shop or is there a easy way to get this gear off. Thanks.
You gotta remove the head and oil pan to get at the lower chain. There's no easy way to remove the idler sprocket (I think that's what its called). I would love to hear it if someone has an easier way! Download the B14 FSM at the top the 95-99 B14 Sentra forum, it may be helpful.
thats sucks. I could never pull something like that off. The marks are right on for that lower chain. would it hurt to leave that gear on with that missing tooth and just replace the top gears and upper chain, and upper tensioner? can't tell what the noise was coming from but i did notice in that FSM it shows a upper chain guide mine did not have one of these but it looks like one came with my set maybe that was the cause??
Last edited by Jer_ry : Apr 26th, 2005 at 10:45 PM.
thats sucks. I could never pull something like that off. The marks are right on for that lower chain. would it hurt to leave that gear on with that missing tooth and just replace the top gears and upper chain, and upper tensioner? can't tell what the noise was coming from but i did notice in that FSM it shows a upper chain guide mine did not have one of these but it looks like one came with my set maybe that was the cause??
You can replace the timing chains without removing the head, but it's still a difficult job. You have to remove the front cover and oil pan.
Do not leave a gear on with missing teeth.
__________________
96 Sentra GXE
Boost is addictive
265WHP/257WTQ
thats sucks. I could never pull something like that off. The marks are right on for that lower chain. would it hurt to leave that gear on with that missing tooth and just replace the top gears and upper chain, and upper tensioner? can't tell what the noise was coming from but i did notice in that FSM it shows a upper chain guide mine did not have one of these but it looks like one came with my set maybe that was the cause??
Its a time consuming job, but I didn't think it was that hard. Just a lot of wrenching, keeping everything together, and marking things that need to be reinstalled a specific way (ie: cams). I can't remember very well, but there was one guide I didn't use, which may have been the upper one. Ask yourself this, if you don't have one there now, and its supposed to have one, where did it go? Mine was a 96, so it may be different.
Here is the pair of connected gears i need to replace
here is the broken teeth
The bolt holding them on is off they are just kept in place by the chain. I tried pushing the lower tensioner and it gave the chain some slack but not enough to slide the gears out and replace with the shiny new ones..
Last edited by Jer_ry : Apr 27th, 2005 at 06:12 PM.
yeah i did this job a while back totaly sucks. heres what you gotta do you do not have to take the head off.
1. turn motor tdc
2. take the belts and crank pulley and thermostat off.
3. take the oil pan off. may have to unbolt exauhst to do so.
4. take take the timing chain cover off. and the upper plate infront of the cams.
5. take the cam gears off including chain.
6. now unbolt the idler sprocket and drop the chain and sprocket down.
7. now undo everything i just said make sure you have everything alined according the the fsm good luck.
thanks skoodles i was affraid i might had to hear that. well i might as well try it. it's not doing any good sitting there sad part is it's in the grass gonna have to push it 20ft to the cement. Thanks again!
That's the idler sproket, you can't remove it w/o removing the lower chain.
Skoodles has the right steps, but make sure you have the FSM handy when doing this. It's very important that everything line up after the install. The anoying thing is the FSM tells you that you have to remove the head, but it's usefull in getting everything lined up and it has torque specs.
If you need an idler sprocket I think I have a spare one but I won't be able to ship it for a week or two. If you don't mind the wait PM me I'll sell it pretty cheap.
__________________
96 Sentra GXE
Boost is addictive
265WHP/257WTQ
vtc...
'The VTC system varies the intake valve opening and closing time by managing the cam phase. The system is driven by oil pressure controlled by the VTC solenoid. As well as maximising useable power and torque when required, the VTC system contributes to improved engine idling stability and lowered fuel consumption'
From http://www.4wdworld.com.au/releases/nissan.htm
No need for an aftermarket adjustable sprocket
Nissan already built it in!!
Thanks for the correction wes
That's the idler sproket, you can't remove it w/o removing the lower chain.
Skoodles has the right steps, but make sure you have the FSM handy when doing this. It's very important that everything line up after the install. The anoying thing is the FSM tells you that you have to remove the head, but it's usefull in getting everything lined up and it has torque specs.
If you need an idler sprocket I think I have a spare one but I won't be able to ship it for a week or two. If you don't mind the wait PM me I'll sell it pretty cheap.
Thanks for the offer aminidab but the timing set i bought came with one. Along with the lower tensioner and both chains and a few other weird parts. might as well change them all out while i have it apart. I got the pan and exhaust off along with a few other things from the front today. I was reading about TDC i have #1 at tdc but it says something about not having it on the exhaust side? I dunno what that means. When mine went to tdc it immediately was hard to turn anymore had a lot of compression is that correct tdc?
Thanks for the offer aminidab but the timing set i bought came with one. Along with the lower tensioner and both chains and a few other weird parts. might as well change them all out while i have it apart. I got the pan and exhaust off along with a few other things from the front today. I was reading about TDC i have #1 at tdc but it says something about not having it on the exhaust side? I dunno what that means. When mine went to tdc it immediately was hard to turn anymore had a lot of compression is that correct tdc?
You are at TDC on the compression stroke, you can tell because the cam lobes are pointing away from the center of the motor.
Linear Mode
