Cams dyno charts

andre · Oct 17th, 2002, 12:16 AM

Can someone please give me a link to a JWT cam dyno? The one on sentra.net is confusing, and based on what I read there, it dont seem worth it for my AT. I need a more precise dyno for the cams please. Thanks.

**morepower2** · Oct 17th, 2002, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by andre
Can someone please give me a link to a JWT cam dyno? The one on sentra.net is confusing, and based on what I read there, it dont seem worth it for my AT. I need a more precise dyno for the cams please. Thanks.

How is that confusing, its as plain as day! The cams also gave the biggest gain of all the parts!

Mike

UnderDog · Oct 17th, 2002, 02:28 AM

Isn't that where it gains something like 40 hp after 6 grand RPM because the cams plus the ECU keeps the power from nose-diving after 6000 RPM? Low and mid tq/hp I didn't think it gained anything but around 7-10.

andre · Oct 17th, 2002, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by morepower2
How is that confusing, its as plain as day! The cams also gave the biggest gain of all the parts!

Mike

Mike, what I mean is....I read your statement that says it gave 7 peak hp....but what I really wanted is a dyno chart of just the cams so I can compare it to stock. The one on sentra.net is ok, but its hard to differentiate where exactly each line goes....I mean, there's like 8 different mods on the one chart, with similar colors.... I'm just trying to figure out the range with the optimal hp gains that will work with the auto tranny....that way I will have a better idea of how low or high to have Andre' set my torque converter upgrade.

I also had a question about the JWT ecu....I know it raises the rev limiter, but will it raise the shift points on the auto tranny?

Right now I'm debating on either:
1) get the cams
2) get the torque converter (with optimal setting to pick up the most of the cams' power when I do get them)
3) forget performance and get some wheels.

Any other info highly appreciated.

Russellc · Oct 17th, 2002, 12:21 PM

These cams are a relatively mild grind. While they only give a small peak horsepower increase, they give a lot on top and take very little from the bottom. looking at the charts, you can see why it takes so long to acelerate to any speed over 100, or to 100 for that matter.... the horsepower is way past its peak and is on the way down. These cams give you 42 more horses at the top, greatly improving acceleration at the top. Wild cams that give large increases require much more modification of the engine to take advantage of. Plus you lose your bottom end power requiring dragstrip power launches at every stop.

Russellc

myoung · Oct 17th, 2002, 01:56 PM

notice the drastic drop without cams.... I wish this showed that drop progess downward... but you can figure it out..

bahearn · Oct 17th, 2002, 03:00 PM

Andre, my suggestion is to sell the car and get something with a standard transmission. That automatic has you two car lengths back before you even START the race (at the drag strip, of course).

Selling the car also gives you the opportunity to get a bigger engine. "There's no substitute for cubic inches".

With that said, if you REALLY like a challenge, stay the course and develop what you have.

UnderDog · Oct 17th, 2002, 09:58 PM

So all the cams really do is shift the power curve forward? Gain some top end at the expense of bottom end. Isn't that the way it always works though? You have to sacrifice top end for bottom end and bottom end for top end.

andre · Oct 18th, 2002, 12:37 AM

Thanks Mike. I see now....the most important part of the power band has no gain...between 3000 and 5000 rpm....and I'd lose some of my bottom end in regular driving...so unless the ECU raises shift points, the cams would be pointless at this specific point. Thanks guys.

Oh, and for the record...again...its my mother's car.

Niss200SXGTR · Oct 18th, 2002, 01:06 AM

as for top = more bottom, or loss bottom = high top.. thats sooo true, i noticed with my intake and exaust and headers.. i have like NO torque at all before 3-4K, but man oh man, once i hit them HIGH RPMS, its over.. nooo challenge.. i am going to invest in some cams sooner or later. maybe Jim Wolf will cut me a cam+ECU deal...

dho · Oct 19th, 2002, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by andre
Right now I'm debating on either:
1) get the cams
2) get the torque converter (with optimal setting to pick up the most of the cams' power when I do get them)
3) forget performance and get some wheels.

I would recommend getting a 3,300rpm stall converter with a pretty good sized transmission cooler. In my B13 GA that I had running almost 90% of the bolt-ons (excluding Pulley, Cams, ECU) I had a 3,200 stall converter and for a while (22degrees timing.. too high), I was beating stock GT mustangs till 80mph. My 0-60 mph was 8.2 and my 1/8 mile was 11.2 sec (down to 15degrees timing). If I had a 3,300 stall converter, cams, ecu, I'd run about a 10.6-10.75 in the 1/8th. A stock 91-94 SE-R does 0-60mph in 8.2 sec. (spec taken from several car websites)

There are two places that I recommend for converters: Level 10 and Edge Racing Converters (mild street edge converter). I'd recommend Level 10 if you use the group deal to get the converter and maybe a tranny kit or the full racing tranny (holds up to 600hp, 500tq / 1 yr warranty). If you were just getting the converter, I'd recommend Edge Racing Converters. There is a guy there named Andre that can help you. Tell him I sent you.

One more option: You can get a converter designed with Andre for either Torque Multiplication (lower rpm start) or for Stall (higher rpm start). The torque multiplication may better in some cases. I've heard that a very efficient torque multiplied converter can run a 4:1 tq multiplication. So, let's say we look at the stock dyno, @ 2,000 rpm it produces close to 80lbs of torque... it can be multiplied to 4x times that - 320lb. tq! 320lb of tq right off the line! Another advantage to the torque multiplication (low stall), it is more efficient and does not produce anywhere near as much as a high stall does. The converter is best when it works with the powerband of the motor. A good converter gives good torque multiplication at an rpm that is right below the power curve of the engine to allow you to launch quickly without burning up the transmission.

In conclusion, there are factors that you should communicate with Andre (Andre gets more technical on converter design than other people I have talked to). These factors consist of the following: first gear ratio, final drive ratio, tire diameter, vehicle weight, vehicle brake system, engine power curve, and engine size. Send him the pictures of the dyno's with the mods you plan to do.

Good luck and give Andre a call!

andre · Oct 20th, 2002, 03:05 AM

Holy crap Dan, you just opened up a whole new world to me...LOL...I knew I didn't know much, but daaaammn...torque multiplication?? That one's new to me. I think I'm gonna just email Andre a link to this thread so he knows exactly whats going on. I was thinking of pushing the stall to 3500 rpm....just to push the envelope a little more, but that torque multiplication thing caught my attention. I'll let you know what Andre says. Thanks Dan.

dho · Oct 20th, 2002, 03:42 PM

No prob! Anytime

I'd like to know what Andre says about it too. I know there is an advantage to both torque multiplication and the stall. Hopefully, he can help us find the perfect converter for the GA16's! (3,500 stall will produce too much heat for street)