I think it's about a 3-hour drive. I'll buy the post-repair beer.
(Just kidding!)
I'm only following my instincts on this one. Trying to fix my car without busting anything else in the process.
BTW: Did you install the 4-wheel disc brake upgrade yourself? I may eventually do that, but from what I have read, it will require wider aftermarket wheels.
Trust me you wont break anything with the starter trick.
Yes I installed the rear discs and the upgraded front myself.
The larger fronts require either Nissan wheels that clear the brakes, i believe 14's were fitted to the 2000 nx or 15's after market.
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1997 Sentra GXE w/195/50 15's and AD22VF, Tach, Halo's, Front seal, Rear SER Disc Brakes Soon to be sold
1997 S-ER 5 sp yea !!!
2003 Pathfinder SE 4WD
Ex- 2001 Sunny N16 RHD (N16 Nissan Bluebird Sylphy)
I used the starter-bump method, and it worked fine.
And I expected that after all the drama loosening that big honking bolt, the rest of the operation would be a pain, too.
It wasn't! The harmonic balance/main pulley/whatever you prefer to call it came off very easily. I just put my fingers on both sides of it, and off she came. No hassle. Didn't even have to replace the woodruff key.
I actually was able to press in the new seal with my fingertips, as well.
This may be very obvious to everybody else, but in prying out the old seal, the hazard in using a steel screwdriver is not only to the seal bore, but to the lip on the seal bore, too. That is cast aluminum, and I wish I had been more mindful of that. It's a good idea to wrap a good cloth rag around whatever tool you use. I made a couple of little burrs on there that I had to brush off with emery cloth. On aluminum, when you go prying out a stiff old seal, it wouldn't be a bad idea to use some kind of delicate little nylon or polyethylene kitchen utensil.
You'd have to see me do it to understand exactly what I mean, but I used the head of a nylon wire tie to go around the circumference of the seal lips & make sure that the little garter spring was all happy & not binding anywhere before I finished seating the seal.
Everything seems kosher, I was able to wash a lot of accumulated oil & gunk off the engine, and I replaced those oil-saturated belts, too.
Here's hoping I can go another 90,000 miles or more!
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well-maintained winter blue B13 w/4-speed auto OD still itching for some upgrades (90+K on the clock)
Hello everyone. I have a 1988 Nissan Sentra (1.6 liter SOHC ) and I want to replace the crankshaft seal. I welcome any and all suggestions on how to remove the crankshaft sproket. Thank you.
Somewhere in the thread I'm sure someone mentioned a Crank pulley puller, or a large 3 jaw puller. You may be able to get a loaner at an auto parts store.
where the fudge can I get a seal for my 1999 ga16de with 150k on it? I can't find it locally here in St. Louis and nobody knows what I'm talking about when I mention it.
where the fudge can I get a seal for my 1999 ga16de with 150k on it? I can't find it locally here in St. Louis and nobody knows what I'm talking about when I mention it.
Autozone carries it. It's under the timing chain kit if I believe. Cost is $11
Hello everyone. I have a 1988 Nissan Sentra (1.6 liter SOHC ) and I want to replace the crankshaft seal. I welcome any and all suggestions on how to remove the crankshaft sproket. Thank you.
Pull fuel pump fuse. Connect socket wrench to crank bolt. Go into car, turn it a few quick starts ( do not hold key in). Boom, works like magic.
where the fudge can I get a seal for my 1999 ga16de with 150k on it? I can't find it locally here in St. Louis and nobody knows what I'm talking about when I mention it.
The dealer carries it as well, ask for front crankshaft seal, i think i paid about $8,
and also at Reilly's, was cheaper but thinner, I ended up pushing it is too far and crooked.
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1997 Sentra GXE w/195/50 15's and AD22VF, Tach, Halo's, Front seal, Rear SER Disc Brakes Soon to be sold
1997 S-ER 5 sp yea !!!
2003 Pathfinder SE 4WD
Ex- 2001 Sunny N16 RHD (N16 Nissan Bluebird Sylphy)
I got a b12- E15 engine and somebody suggested me to change it for a Ga16de. Is it possible and don't know the spec of it.
Probably too much trouble for what your car is worth. Why change out motors if there are no major issues? This is not a 1 hour job. More like a day or more.
Before I go working through the process outlined in the sticky for the front seal replacement, I had a question. The leak I have on my '93 Sentra GXE drops onto the belts which then spray the oil away from the belts and all over the place... from the descriptions and discussion in this forum it sounds like the front seal might be BELOW most of the belts? Is it the top gasket i need to replace on the top of the motor?
Before I go working through the process outlined in the sticky for the front seal replacement, I had a question. The leak I have on my '93 Sentra GXE drops onto the belts which then spray the oil away from the belts and all over the place... from the descriptions and discussion in this forum it sounds like the front seal might be BELOW most of the belts? Is it the top gasket i need to replace on the top of the motor?
Okay: You guys were right.
Need suggestion, swap E15 to Ga16de
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