Can someone repost the pictures of the procedure from the first post? I don't think my haynes manual is so generous. Planning on making this my July 4th weekend project.
I kinda hacked the FSM in order to get all the pictures to fit on a single page.
One thing they don't show is how to "detension" the power steering belt. To "de-tension" the belt you must first loosen the locknut that is near the tensioning screw for the power steering belt. Second, There is a 14mm nut on the power steering pump itself (it's right behind the pulley). The head of the nut and bolt face the driver's side. If you loosen that, then you can push the pump up and down and you can get some slack in the belts and then easily remove them. *To get some slack in the alternator belt, you'll need to loosen the idler pulley and adjust the long screw that is near the alternator. You'll then be able to slide the pulley up and down and be able to get some clearance to get the belts off and on easily.
*This is shown in the bottom left picture
To get the crank pulley screw off, it is recommended you have an air tool, but if you have an automatic, there's a trick someone mentioned on here before that you can use. You just pull the 15a fuse in the fusebox next to the steering well (this is the fuel pump fuse) and get a wrench the appropriate size for the pulley bolt (I think 1 1/16?). Get a pipe as well so that you can put the wrench inside of it, and brace the pipe against the ground (facing towards the front of the car). Now go and try to start the car, the crank will turn and the pulley will turn, and the bolt will get loose. This is only if you have an automatic car, though. On manual cars you can just press the brake pedal and put it in gear and you'll be able to unscrew the crank pulley bolt with just a wrench, although an air impact tool would make the job a LOT easier.
To get the crank pulley off, you can use a puller, but I couldn't find one with the right screw sizes, so I just got a crowbar and a hammer and a friend to help pry the pulley off. This is really frustrating, because it will take so long, but take breaks, and make sure you put some sort of cushion between the hammer and crowbar so you don't screw up your oil pan or anything else in that area. It'll come off after a while, having a helper pry the pulley off with you is a great help.
Hope this helps, I just changed out my belts and replaced my crank pulley with a UR underdrive pulley last week. It was a PITA job, mostly because of the crank pulley itself and that damn power steering tensioner.
Last edited by wildmane : Jun 26th, 2005 at 06:38 PM.
How to get to adjusting bolt on the generator compressor?
I'm somewhat of a lost and tried searching for drive belt replacement and couldn't find it so I was wondering if some of you can help me.
I removed the wheel and can get to the belt of the ac/ps however... when trying to figure out how to remove the belt for the compressor generator... I have no clue.
The adjusting belt appears to between the compressor and generator from the picture... How do one get to that adjusting bolt to remove the belt? Also what tools are you using to remove that bolt as it seems tight all around in there.
I'm somewhat of a lost and tried searching for drive belt replacement and couldn't find it so I was wondering if some of you can help me.
I removed the wheel and can get to the belt of the ac/ps however... when trying to figure out how to remove the belt for the compressor generator... I have no clue.
The adjusting belt appears to between the compressor and generator from the picture... How do one get to that adjusting bolt to remove the belt? Also what tools are you using to remove that bolt as it seems tight all around in there.
a bit confusing at first glance, i think i get what you are saying.
i think what u want to know is how to reach the adjusting bolt for the "compressor-generator" belt. i remember my belts looking a little different, but i am a little tired right now. :/ There is one ajdusting bolt at the top of the generator (aka alternator, yes?). look for it closely, it is brass-colored. there also is an idler pulley - that pulley is adjustable. look under that pulley to find the adjusting bolt for that. it is also brass-colored.
your question is a little hard to understand. i assume that 'generator' means the alternator and the 'compressor' is the a/c compressor???? please be a little more detailed. i can also provide pictures to show where the adjusting bolts are if you want.
hey guys i have a 200sx 95 and it does the same thing, leaking from the right side by the pulleys, so ur saying its a common problem, but there is the timing cover gasket which requires all the work, taking off stuff....lots of money or the seal on the crankshaft coming through the timing cover, which is easy and i can do in an hour, so which is the one u guys have found to be leaking ???? thanks
it's the seal on the crankshaft coming through the timing cover. I know the FSM tells you to take off the timing cover and everything, but to my knowledge, it isn't necessary. the haynes specifies that it can be done without taking off the cover as well, not like that's a reliable source of information. mine took two hours to do it, the hardest part was loosening the power steering belt. once you take the belts off and pull the crank pulley out, you're halfway done.
and as far as I know, everyone here did it that way and didn't have to go through the trouble of taking off the timing cover. but I'll let them speak, since I'm not positive.
i tried replacing mine, but my helper put the seal more than flush into the engine and collapsed part of it... needless to say it didn't help at all, it made the oil leak worse, about 3/4quart in two-ish miles. i have to take off the belts again anyhow, they were SHOT. all in all not too hard, i used a crowbar instead of a puller. now to try it a second time.
Crank Pulley isn't wet with oil nor are the belts. However area's like the compressor, all around Oil pan, area's at the buttom right side of the Oil filter, between the block and the tranny (only just below the Oil pan) are covered with oil.
It can't be coming from the Oil Pan because that gasket was just replaced a week ago which I thought would of solved the leak but it still wet in the same areas as before...
Crank Pulley isn't wet with oil nor are the belts. However area's like the compressor, all around Oil pan, area's at the buttom right side of the Oil filter, between the block and the tranny (only just below the Oil pan) are covered with oil.
It can't be coming from the Oil Pan because that gasket was just replaced a week ago which I thought would of solved the leak but it still wet in the same areas as before...
im having a leak in the same area now. I dont think it's the front seal, sounds more like the Rear Main Seal. I did some searching when i started leaking in that area, you should too. before checking and ruling it to be so, get some brake/carb cleaner and really clean up all the oil and gunk on the block,pan,and tranny. then run the engine for a bit... then you'll be able to see more clearly where the leak is coming from.
double check your RTV seal on the pan. it's crucial you apply it right, use the right temp, and torque the bolts on in the correct order and specific torque, otherwise it will leak easily. make sure the filter and oil sending unit are not the culprit(s). some people found it to be the sending unit. if you really think it's the rear seal, you're looking at a major PITA; having someone do it for you can be a tad expensive as well.
i believe my leak is the rear seal. it's very small ATM, and my car has 167K+ on it with the original clutch. i figure i'll save up and buy a new clutch kit before replacing the seal. it's a rare job, and alot of trouble to get to, exposing the clutch at the same time; so i figure "2 birds with one stone".
Last edited by Solidox2k : Sep 4th, 2005 at 05:50 AM.
I have a question... I have a 1990 Sentra B12 with a 1999 GA16DE engine in it... engine runs fine and strong. We got the engine salvaged from a scrapyard, and put it in without doing any work to it. Prior to dropping it in... the alternator bracket and underside of the engine were pretty covered in oil and grime... but we just figured it was from sitting at a salvage yard. We cleaned it off with engine degreaser and brake parts cleaner, and put it in the car, no problem. A few days later... I noticed three drops of oil... only three. It continued to drop three drops of oil occassionally... but now, over 5 months later... I do not even notice it. I know it is still leaking, primarily because the engine bay is covered in residue, and my oil level goes down slightly every few days. At first we thought it was the oil pan, so we pulled it off and resealed it, and it stopped for a while. I have the replacement seal for the main seal, but have not had time to replace it yet. Is there a surefire way to tell if that is the source of the leak? I think it could also be the timing plate cover.
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