i did find that, and it helps, but it jumps around.. from my understanding or view.. it looks like we have to take off the wheel, the pulley and should be able to reach the case if im right... any other info on replacing this would be helpful...
lemon
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix
I can't wait until Hurrican Jamal sweeps up the east coast and steals the wheels and stero out of your car
hey guys.. i need some advice on replacing the lower tensioner, mitch and i did the upper one with ease.. now for the big parts..
i did find that, and it helps, but it jumps around.. from my understanding or view.. it looks like we have to take off the wheel, the pulley and should be able to reach the case if im right... any other info on replacing this would be helpful...
Judging by the B13 wrightup it looks as if the main pulley has to come off. If you already did the upper tensioner than you may or may not have had to move the power steering pump, right?
On all my timing belt jobs the crank pulley had to come off to allow the timing cover to slide off so I am going to say yes the crank pulley should allow the cover to slide off and give you access to the tensioner. It looks as if I might need to be doing a tensioner job myself. I have a ton of top end valvetrain noise. Mine is a 98, and so is yours, right? Does the upper only have a tensioner?
you will prolly have to replace both, i know i have to.. i did the uppper one and it calmed the noise down.. i thought you would have to do the crank pulley.... im just wondering if you have to do more or other ones...
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix
I can't wait until Hurrican Jamal sweeps up the east coast and steals the wheels and stero out of your car
Things that need to be removed before you can remove the side cover/oil pump to change the lower tensioner:
**TAKE THE FREAKIN' ENGINE OUT OF THE CAR, it's easier!
Anyway, here's most of what you need to take off...
- under engine splash guards
- exhaust manifold downpipe(from manifold base to flex joint if OE)
- crossmember
- passenger side wheel/tire
- side splash guards
All this has to be done before the oil pan can even be dropped. The side cover/oil pump CANNOT be removed without removing the base pan due to the oil pump leg.
Next loosen and remove:
- belt tensioners and belts
- water pump pulley(may be optional)
- crank pulley
- oil pump cover bolts
Why people are removing the power steering pump is beyond me. I never had any problems with it being left on although space was extremely tight when working around the thermostat housing during disassembly and assembly. Whether it was related to the power steering left in place I can't remember.
I'll try and finish that article some day to make it easier to follow, more of a step by step process. A Haynes of FSM will be your best resource. I should note, both those books tell you to remove the cylinder head(I believe) and install a new gasket afterward, although they base it on timing chain replacement, not guide. A technical update from Nissan says you no longer need to do that when either, I believe.
Best of luck for anyone doing this. It's a tight spot to work in. If I were to do it again I'd remove the engine from the car to save a lot of time and frustration working in such a difficult location, especially when installing the side cover and thermostat housing.
Things that need to be removed before you can remove the side cover/oil pump to change the lower tensioner:
**TAKE THE FREAKIN' ENGINE OUT OF THE CAR, it's easier!
Anyway, here's most of what you need to take off...
- under engine splash guards
- exhaust manifold downpipe(from manifold base to flex joint if OE)
- crossmember
- passenger side wheel/tire
- side splash guards
All this has to be done before the oil pan can even be dropped. The side cover/oil pump CANNOT be removed without removing the base pan due to the oil pump leg.
Next loosen and remove:
- belt tensioners and belts
- water pump pulley(may be optional)
- crank pulley
- oil pump cover bolts
Why people are removing the power steering pump is beyond me. I never had any problems with it being left on although space was extremely tight when working around the thermostat housing during disassembly and assembly. Whether it was related to the power steering left in place I can't remember.
I'll try and finish that article some day to make it easier to follow, more of a step by step process. A Haynes of FSM will be your best resource. I should note, both those books tell you to remove the cylinder head(I believe) and install a new gasket afterward, although they base it on timing chain replacement, not guide. A technical update from Nissan says you no longer need to do that when either, I believe.
Best of luck for anyone doing this. It's a tight spot to work in. If I were to do it again I'd remove the engine from the car to save a lot of time and frustration working in such a difficult location, especially when installing the side cover and thermostat housing.
-Greg
WooHoo. This sounds like it is gonna be fun. This will call for some extra mountain dew, snacks, and maybe even some pixy stix. Well Steve, it may not be so easy after all. Oh well, I don't care if it takes us all weekend damnit we will figure it out and get done(but lets try to keep it to a day lol).
I have a monkey that continues the post whoring through out the night. His next stop is Pete's house where i taught him how to judo chop cracka ass thugs
Things that need to be removed before you can remove the side cover/oil pump to change the lower tensioner:
Wait, you don't need to remove the front cover/oil pump to change the lower tensioner. Really you only need to remove the tensioner itself, replace the gasket and put the new one it. The only reason you have to remove the therm housing and PS pump is to get to the tensioner.
Edit: Also I don't see why you would need to remove the crank pulley, it shouldn't be in the way.
__________________
96 Sentra GXE
Boost is addictive
265WHP/257WTQ
so who has done this.. i know you have to remove the them housing, the wheel and front cover to access teh pulley area... does anyone have an picture of where to access
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix
I can't wait until Hurrican Jamal sweeps up the east coast and steals the wheels and stero out of your car
Last edited by psuLemon : Aug 4th, 2004 at 06:32 PM.
aminidab, you may be correct about not needing to take the oil pump cover off to change the lower tensioner. From what I remember you could access it readily. If it is possible, I never tried.
Also, the key part that needs to be replaced making most if not all of the noise isn't the tensioner but instead the lower chain guides. The design for these was less than perfect and they are prone to excessive wear, eventually cracking in pieces shown in my article. Eventually the timing chain will rub the sides of the oil cover[see pictures from site]. If left unchecked it will eat a hole either through the outside of the cover or into the coolant passage. Because of this, the oil pump cover MUST be removed and possibly even replaced, depending on the damage. Nissan reconfigured the design using a new plastic guide that slips and locks onto a metal rail[refer to the first picture in the Installation procedure from my site]. Furthermore, they replaced the star head nuts that held the old tensioner into place with actual socket nuts. Since you cannot remove the old ones with a socket or wrench they have to be loosened with vice-grips. Reason being, the upper nut is near impossible to remove like a normal screw as it is behind the upper cam sprockets. The tensioner sprocket can be loosened to allow a little extra room when removing these nuts. Basically, the whole lower guide has been updated.
To seal everything back up you should use Ultra Grey RTV sealant, the same stuff that was there initially and it is what Nissan would use if you brought the car into the dealer. I'd suggest buying the caulk tube as it would have been much easier to apply.
aminidab, you may be correct about not needing to take the oil pump cover off to change the lower tensioner. From what I remember you could access it readily. If it is possible, I never tried.
Also, the key part that needs to be replaced making most if not all of the noise isn't the tensioner but instead the lower chain guides. The design for these was less than perfect and they are prone to excessive wear, eventually cracking in pieces shown in my article. Eventually the timing chain will rub the sides of the oil cover[see pictures from site]. If left unchecked it will eat a hole either through the outside of the cover or into the coolant passage. Because of this, the oil pump cover MUST be removed and possibly even replaced, depending on the damage. Nissan reconfigured the design using a new plastic guide that slips and locks onto a metal rail[refer to the first picture in the Installation procedure from my site]. Furthermore, they replaced the star head nuts that held the old tensioner into place with actual socket nuts. Since you cannot remove the old ones with a socket or wrench they have to be loosened with vice-grips. Reason being, the upper nut is near impossible to remove like a normal screw as it is behind the upper cam sprockets. The tensioner sprocket can be loosened to allow a little extra room when removing these nuts. Basically, the whole lower guide has been updated.
To seal everything back up you should use Ultra Grey RTV sealant, the same stuff that was there initially and it is what Nissan would use if you brought the car into the dealer. I'd suggest buying the caulk tube as it would have been much easier to apply.
I believe the change in the guides was for the B13 sentra. The B14 has the newer guides already. If he's replacing the guides, which might need replacement, yes the front cover must be taken off. The lower TC tensioner has a gasket which can be bought from the dealership. For the front cover the gasket is RTV and Ultra Grey is the best like SentraB13 said.
I have done this before psuLemon but I did it when replacing the entire timing chain setup. Including guides and the chain, so I had to take the front cover off. In the end replacing the chains wasn't needed but I had bought a kit including the chains, and the front cover needed to be replaced as the upper timing chain had worn into it due to the upper TC tensioner being bad.
Sorry, I don't have any pics of the area.
__________________
96 Sentra GXE
Boost is addictive
265WHP/257WTQ
My mistake, you can take out the lower tensioner easily, I had mine off after reinstalling the oil cover. For some reason I was thinking about the lower chain tensioner guide, not the tensioner itself.
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