You're gonna want a tranny from an SR20DE-powered car. Personally I would get a manual since they seem to handle power better and are quicker. You're also going to want an ECU from JWT to run the motor, better fuel delivery, etc. etc. etc. This is a very involved swap into a 1.6l, so I'll leave this to someone who has done it or knows more about it, but it's not cheap or easy.
Also I have heard for racing autos are better cause u get the same results everytime instead of u forget to swift or u mess up while shifting..
you lose more power through an auto because of their efficiency differences (inefficiency in an auto), you could probably be faster than someone who really sucked at driving stick and couldn't find a gear to save his life (me).
My suggestion is to just purchase a used SE-R (B13 Sentra, B14 200sx) and do the DET swap there. Would probably save you time with axles, harnesses, blah blah blah. A DET swap can and has been done into some originally GA-motored Sentras and 200's, but I believe extra time and work was spent making the hybrid work efficiently. My .02
If you opt to do a full 1.6 to 2.0 DET hybrid, please keep us informed!!!
__________________
<<Joe>>
The B13 is gone... now enjoying a Black 2005 VW GTI 1.8T
Originally posted by samo You're gonna want a tranny from an SR20DE-powered car. Personally I would get a manual since they seem to handle power better and are quicker. You're also going to want an ECU from JWT to run the motor, better fuel delivery, etc. etc. etc. This is a very involved swap into a 1.6l, so I'll leave this to someone who has done it or knows more about it, but it's not cheap or easy.
Did you know that the Level 10 Performance Transmission (talk to sam there if you're interested) can hold up to 600hp and 500ft. lb. tq? I personally would spend the $2864 on one and get a stall converter for $400. That way you don't do a $1500-2000 transmission swap (including labor) plus you don't have to worry about the transmission breaking from over powering it. If you do have to worry about overpowering the Level 10 transmission, I'd really like to see what kind of power the motor's pushing. Over 600hp on a FWD? That's amazing.
There's several more advantages that should be considered about the performance automatic: Throttle Oriented shift kits, superpumps, valve body upgrades, Torrington® bearings, PTS™ Blue Plate Special® Clutches, Kolene Reaction Plates, and other goodies all in that one little packaged price. Then you add on the stall converter customized for turbo, NOS, supercharger, or NA. You can askem to make the converter for low rpm torque multiplication like 3:1 or you can make a higher stall. On my 1.6L converter, the highest stall converter design is 3,200 rpm, which can actually get higher than that depending on HP/TQ of the engine. For example, not exact: 110hp @3,200rpm stall or 200hp@3,600rpm stall. Also, I've been talking to Sam about getting the Phantom Grip LSD put into the sentra performance transmissions.
__________________
Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
Originally posted by barnoun That info on the level 10 tranny is so encouraging. Makes me proud to have so much potential in the tranny
but what is the cost? not to be knockin on anybody, i know it shouldn't be a matter of cost if you really love doing than you should do whatever you want to your car, however, that doesn't throw caution into the wind because you'll wind up spending over 4k on transmission upgrades alone and then you need to spend another 4k to make engine catch up to the tranny. so in the end you spend 8k when for that kind of money you can have a DET and a super fly paint job and maybe even a cool stereo system put in...
but you know what? i don't want to be part of the group that says your full of crap for pursuing your own goals, i commend you on your ability to think outside the box... just watch the bank account.
The "super" tranny costs $2864. Not that much if you're serious about performance ...and of course it'll cost a lot to make the car fast, I mean it goes 17-18s stock(b14 1.6 auto).
Originally posted by barnoun The "super" tranny costs $2864. Not that much if you're serious about performance ...and of course it'll cost a lot to make the car fast, I mean it goes 17-18s stock(b14 1.6 auto).
2864 + 400 (if that is correct)=3264... plus labor if you don't know anything about transmissions like I don't know. but i get your point tho. getting a b14 auto to be really fast is about as challenging as Mini-me winning gold in the Olympics...
I've been aware of how much it costs to work with automatics. If you do it right by getting a performance automatic from the start, you won't have to do any kind major maintence in the future. All you'll have to do is the transmission fluid changes every 50-60,000 miles for around $75. There's no pulling the transmission every so often to work on a clutch or flywheel. Keeping the automatic will save you from those extra expenses plus the costs of swapping to a manual. Also, with the performance transmission you don't have to worry about upgrading it later on because you're putting too much horsepower down to the wheels like you probably would with a manual. How much would it cost for performance parts like clutches and flywheels, cryo-treatment and all the maintence to keep it running well for 60,000 miles?
From my experience, my advice to those of you that have an automatic transmission now is to save your money before you do any modifications to the engine and put it towards the transmission first. You will be very happy with what can be done with just the transmission upgrade. I know that I only have a converter upgrade with a remanufactured Aamco transmission (waste of $2000). With just the stall converter and the bolt-ons, I made my car (94 1.6L) go from 0-60mph in 13 seconds down to about 8 seconds flat. That's a stock SE-R sort of time. The times would be better if I had the performance transmission.
In the performance transmission ($2864) you will have all of their upgrades already in it plus their $400 converter, there's no extra prices to worry about. $3264 is an awesome deal for a customized stall converter (Level 10 will make it for your application, not everyone elses but YOUR application whether it's NA, NOS, Turbo, or Supercharger), throttle oriented shiftkit, valve body upgrade, the super pump, raybestos (blue plate special) upgraded clutches, torington bearings, Kolene Reaction Plates, and possibly the Phantom Grip LSD (not included yet still talking about it w/ level 10, costs $299 from phantom grip).
Anyways, look at the whole picture of things. I think the performance automatic transmission is the way to go if you already have an automatic. I've learned from going through 4 stock automatic transmissions (2 of which I had my Level 10 converter @ 3,200 rpm stall). Do it right from the start or you're little automatic will rape you in the wallet from either gears dissapearing, clutches dying, differentials shattering, overheating, or Factory Nissan converter failures (bearings will die). Get yourself a tranny cooler ASAP to save you from the overheating, it's worth every penny. $20-75 for the cooler will save you from that $2000 rebuild.
Also, if you have a Level 10 converter or any good quality stall converter, don't attempt to go to a local converter shop to raise the stall. When my 2nd to last transmission died because of a broken differential, the junk flowed into the converter. I had to get the converter flushed. So I went to a local converter shop to get it flushed and I was stupid to ask them to raise the stall from the 3,200 to 3,600. They attempted to raise the stall but actually they lowered the stall to 2,500-2,900. My plan is to get it fixed back to the way Level 10 had it and install it again when my engine is replaced by ATK engines for their warranty work (Bad motor).
__________________
Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
I think you have a good point about the Level 10 automatics. They are great transmissions.
But, you all missed the point that he wants an SR motor. He CANNOT use his current auto trans w/ the SR motor. If he goes to an SR motor, he needs an SR trans, whether it be auto or manual.
__________________ 1991 Sentra SE - Auto to Manual swap, 15" Rota Subzero's, 205/50 Kuhmo 712's, Tsuru headlight conversion, SE-R front and rear disc brakes, SE-R front and rear swaybars, SE-R throttle body, SE-R rear inner taillights, HS CAI and Header, H&R springs, Koni shortened struts, ES Hyperflex kit, B&M Short Shifter, Autometer gauges.
Originally posted by johnand I think you have a good point about the Level 10 automatics. They are great transmissions.
But, you all missed the point that he wants an SR motor. He CANNOT use his current auto trans w/ the SR motor. If he goes to an SR motor, he needs an SR trans, whether it be auto or manual.
I guess I missed that point. I would still recommend staying with an automatic. Even though he has to swap out transmissions from the 1.6 to the 2.0 he won't have to get all the stuff installed like the pedal, clutch cable, master & slave cylinders, etc if he stays with the automatic. Also, he doesn't have to drill a hole into the spot where the shifter would go. In the past I planned on swapping out to do the SR20DET BB but I figured working with the 1.6L would be better all the way around for a reliable daily driven car. I was thinking of turboing the 1.6 but it's way too much money all at one time. So it looks like I'm gonna go NA since I already have all the bolt-ons and it's cheaper to buy the motors for the 1.6 to get built up from DPR w/ JWT Cams & higher compression, etc. I also don't have to worry about street legality issues if everything is done right (some one pops up the hood and says, "LOOK it's A Turbo!, that ain't legal!).
__________________
Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
Originally posted by barnoun Have your trannys died because they've been stock with upgraded converters?
My trannies have died for different reasons. None of them dying because of the upgraded converters.
1st - OEM Nissan w/ 145,000 miles died from burned out clutches probably from over heating in rush hour traffic in dallas/ft. worth
2nd - bad seals from Eagle Transmissions
3rd - converter failure due to metal shards from 2nd transmission
Installed Transmission Cooler
4th - Aamco transmission (w/ Level 10 3,200 rpm stall converter)died from a broken differential from either driving too hard, spinning through icey bridge then abruptly caught traction on highway, or doing a burnout then hitting a really dry spot on pavement
5th - Current Aamco Transmission (w/ Level 10 3,200 rpm stall converter but was flushed & "upgraded" by local converter shop and now is only running at 2,500-2,900 rpm stall) still running well
I'm just waiting for my ATK motor to get replaced so I can have my Level 10 Converter working properly and the motor running without bad pistons and a bad timing chain.
__________________
Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
Linear Mode
