D**N IT! As I wrote in a previous post, I believe that I screwed up my MAF sensor when I was installing a new air filter. The car would jerk all over when I was driving at anything above a crawl. I just got a used MAF sensor that was supposedly in perfect working condition, and installed it right away.
The car runs a lot better, but it's only drivable if I stay below a certin RPM (no tach, so I don't know what rpm, but it's just at the level where I normally shift up). And then it starts jerking again. Did I get ripped off, or could it be something else? Could there be some lingering damage done to the car from driving it around the block with the bad MAF, or could it be something else, like an air leak? The clip that holds the plastic air intake tube to the maf sensor rusted and fell off yesterday, so maybe it's not airtight, and at higher RPMS, it leaks? I don't have anything on me to test that right now, but what do you all think?
there should be a little square on the MAF sensor with four screws in it. Unscrew them and make sure that the three plugs inside are touching, if not then make sure they are screw it back together then see if it works....usually when one isnt touching your car will only get up to like 3000 RPM's and then it will jerk really bad try that and see.
there should be a little square on the MAF sensor with four screws in it. Unscrew them and make sure that the three plugs inside are touching, if not then make sure they are screw it back together then see if it works....usually when one isnt touching your car will only get up to like 3000 RPM's and then it will jerk really bad try that and see.
Thanks, I'll try it.... but I'm nervous about opening it up, I think that's how I messed up my original one. Now that I think about it, maybe that's all that's wrong with the original. Could a misaligned pin possibly cause it to jerk at a lower RPM also? The stupid think that I did, if you didn't read my previous post, was to paint the MAF sensor, but should that have been a problem. I heard that they were fragile, but what precautions should I use when I check those pins. Does the grease from your fingers contaminate them?
dude... don't open it if you haven't already. borrow, steal, trade someone for a known to be good maf and test it, just plug it in, don't do any mumbo jumbo to it.
your plugs are fouled because when the MAF trips a CEL the fuel goes into batch fire mode and you get way more fuel than you need... all in the name of saving your engine!
dude... don't open it if you haven't already. borrow, steal, trade someone for a known to be good maf and test it, just plug it in, don't do any mumbo jumbo to it.
your plugs are fouled because when the MAF trips a CEL the fuel goes into batch fire mode and you get way more fuel than you need... all in the name of saving your engine!
Alright, I won't open the new one, but I already opened the old one before, and I know it's not working, so I might as well mess with that... but anyway, I din't check if my spark plugs were fouled, I just thought that maybe driving with the bad MAF coused them to foul (which you confirmed), and that them being fouled is what is making the car drive jerky now, as opposed to anything wrong with the new MAF... is that possible? I've had fouled plugs cause mess up the drivability of a car before, but I can't remember if it happens over a certain RPM.
Linear Mode
