Allright, so in browsing through this forum I figure that all of you know a lot more than me. So lets go through the problems w/ my car. Keep in mind that its an auto, I don't know nearly as much as most of you, and it's in reasonably good condition still.
First of all, a persistent oil leak. It steadily increased from prolly december until may, at which point I was dumping enough oil to leave a cloud of spray and smoke behind me on the highway. This repair ended up being mostly my dad's work, since hes more knowledgable that I. What he did was replace the gaskets on both the oil pan and another on the front of the engine.... the crankshaft gasket he has just informed me. I didn't pay attentiom much during this stage, I started doing more after he finished it. Problem is, theres still a slow leak. Not much, but it put out about a quarter sized puddle after sitting for 20 minutes after an average drive. Any other ideas on this?
Next up, its performance has fallen off since I purchased it last august. To try and fix this problem I have replaced in the last month or two the oil filter, spark plugs, and air filter. I checked the spark plugs again after we fixed the oil leak to make sure my engine hadn't overheated and abused them, and they are fine. One issue I think could be bothering it still is this. I read over at sentra.net that the timing notches, starting from the firewall, are -5,0,5,10,15,20. I am assuming that this is when viewed from above, so if I mark the middle two notches, then I want to use the one closest to me when I use the strobe thinger (ive used it twice, give me a break if i cant remember the name). Thats what its set at now. My dad set it the first time on the principle that it goes up by twos, so it was ether set on 0 or 15 for a day, hopefully that didnt hurt it. Regardless, after I let it idle for a while at the new setting, and then rev the engine, it gutters when I drop it back to idle. I'm not sure if this is common. It also seems to be misfiring, dieing off, and simply not getting up and going as much as before. I'm not quite sure what could be causing this. It was happening before we took off the belt on the timing wheel at all, and I'll be driving it again tomorrow to see if its still bad. Ideas?
Finally, if I were going to put in less than $100 to an upgrade of some sort, what would be my best bet? I realize that most upgrades cost more... but I can only assume that there are a few cheaper ones out there.
And as a closing thought, I want to hunt down the engineering IDIOT who placed the oil filter in the position it resides in. If I wanted to do undercar gymnastics I would join some freaky gym, not change my filter.
Thanks in advance for any help. I realize that I'm a needy guy when it comes to cars, but I'm learning. It's a learn-as-I-go process, the same as when I learned electrical routing and wiring when I installed my stereo.
Ok... on second though this may not be the correct room to have this in. If I should have gone to the GA16 specific forum, someone w/ power can feel free to move me.
Well, as for the ideling issues you're going to hear some very common assessments because it's difficult to pinpoint the problem with vague discriptions. It's not your fault, it's just the nature of writing about car problems. Have you changed the fuel filter? PCV Valve? Insert random sensor/emissions gadget here (O2 sensor...etc)? Cleaned the Throttle Body? There is an exhaustive (no pun intended) list of parts that can put some funk in your idle, and they all could be the culprit, or just one.
So let's begin the process of elimination! Seriously though, if you've got an older car, all of these should be on the tune-up list - and this is just a start.
And as for your less-than-$100 miracle upgrade, well here's my $.02:
1. Genuine Nissan oil filter...............$5 at local dealer
2. Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil.............around $4 to $5 a quart at Walmart
3. 1 Can of RESTORE (Oil Additive)...about $5
4. K&N drop in Air Filter..................around $40 at local car parts store
Total: $70 give or take a few (if you get the 5 quart Mobil 1 for ~$20)
None of this stuff is really a miracle, but until (if you plan to) you do any more modifications, these are some nice little changes that might make your car a little happier. I don't mean to open a can of worms with the Mobil 1 sales pitch, and the K&N is a great little modification since it lets your engine breath a little easier. Hope you can get your Sentra in better shape soon.
For the oil leak... You need to find out exactly where it is leaking and report back with your findings. If your Dad changed the front main seal, than it could still be a good variety of things. At least tell us the general area it is coming from. Your best bet is to steam clean the engine and then run it for a while and pinpoint the leak.
You need to check your timing. If you really do have it accurately set at 15 degrees, you need to run super unleaded. Just re-check it. Most people will say to set it at 15 degrees for about 5hp throughout the power band and a little mpg increase, but the exchange is you will have to run premium gas. I think the deal with that is the premium gas detonates a little later than regular gas so that offsets the timing increase and produces more power.
If the timing is good and you are runnning premium unleaded than I would start checking for vacuum leaks. One great way to do this is to take a propane torch WITHOUT lighting it and run it over all of the vacuum lines that you can see. When you run it over a line with a break in it the engine will rev up a little bit so you can pinpoint the leak.
On Ebay you can get a cone genuine K&N filter with adaptor plate for around 50 bucks. Than if you get the actual CAI tube and put the filter on the end you will be in business. Like many people will say you get what you pay for so maybe you should wait and get a HotShot CAI. They are dyno proven, and all the rave for their headers and CAI's.
One of the things that stand out to me right away is you didn't say you replaced the cap and rotor. This would be a good one to look at. If I were you I would things in this sort of order. "strobe thinger" = Timing light. Are you getting any check engine lights? Outside of the idle how does the car run now. Is there any performance sag's at particular RPM ranges?
1) Find where the oil leak is coming from. If need be, clean the engine so you can see where it is driping from.
2) Get the timing set properly. I would set it back to the factory default to start.
3) Get and use some engine clean. Read the direction carefully. This will make you do another oil change. As well, get either the dealer or a K&N oil filter. I'm sure other can recommend other good brands as well.
4) Add some injector cleaner when you change your oil ( Redline makes some good stuff).
*Replacement summary.
5) Cap and rotor, Fuel filter, air filter, O2 sensor are all big ones.
6) Clean the throttle body as mentioned before and the MAF as well.
Get back to us on the questions that were asked. When I did my wife's 96, it was the cap/rotor and the 02 sensor. Now she's having problem with the EGR, =(
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Don't touch the MAF, especially if you're new to working on cars. It's delicate as hell and expensive to replace. Make sure it's grounded properly, but don't try to clean it.
Definitely set the timing at 10* while you're trying to get it running properly. Afterwards you can advance it to 15* for a cheap effective mod only if you're willing to run 91+ octane all the time.
Have you ever let the oil get too low in the engine? If so that could do some damage and explain your loss of power.
Best bet is to get dirty and find/fix that damn oil leak. From there do a tune up: plugs (done already?)/wires/cap/rotor/air filter (done already?)/fuel filter/PCV Valve/O2 sensor. Use Nissan parts. They're not really expensive and are definitely the best thing for these cars. That'll kill your hundred bucks but have the effect of a performance mod in that it'll regain some lost power. From there advance your timing to 15* BTDC if your car is running properly and you're willing to run 91+ octane.
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Is this forum still full of n00bs learning that you can't boost your daily driver on a part time retail income?
For the oil leak... You need to find out exactly where it is leaking and report back with your findings. If your Dad changed the front main seal, than it could still be a good variety of things. At least tell us the general area it is coming from. Your best bet is to steam clean the engine and then run it for a while and pinpoint the leak.
The leak at this point and as far as I can tell is from the oil pan, even with its replaced seal. I have come to this conclusion from several things: 1. There is new (clear) oil on the bottom of the pan after idling for 40 minutes or so. 2. There is also new (clear) oil on the bracket underneath the alternater, right where a drip from the lip of the pan would drop to. 3. One of the drips hanging on the oil pan almost hit me in the eye, dump piece of crap. After messing with the pan I decided that it might be, of all things, overtightened. It seems that either the gasket is incorrectly installed in the first place (unlikely), or that oil pan screws should not be cranked at all. While tightening I watched for the point where the gasket started to slide outwards, then backed off to just before this point. 1/2 hour of idling late it seems to be better, but time will tell.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SentraFourplay
You need to check your timing. If you really do have it accurately set at 15 degrees, you need to run super unleaded. Just re-check it. Most people will say to set it at 15 degrees for about 5hp throughout the power band and a little mpg increase, but the exchange is you will have to run premium gas. I think the deal with that is the premium gas detonates a little later than regular gas so that offsets the timing increase and produces more power.
I'm not even trying to run it at 15, if youll read my first post carefully, youll notice that I said it was set to either 15 or 0 by mistake when we first put the belt back on and adjusted it. I now have it set at what should be 10, but I'm still not sure if the order is (Firewall)-5,0,5,10,15,20 when viewed from the top, or when viewed from the bottom. If its from the top then I should be right on, if its from the bottom then I'm at 5 instead. I may decide to switch it up and go premium at some point in the future, but since college is coming up this fall, and along with that I want a laptop, I'm taking it easy on funds. Factor in the extreme price of gas, and you have my reasoning for staying at 10 for the time being.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SentraFourplay
On Ebay you can get a cone genuine K&N filter with adaptor plate for around 50 bucks. Than if you get the actual CAI tube and put the filter on the end you will be in business. Like many people will say you get what you pay for so maybe you should wait and get a HotShot CAI. They are dyno proven, and all the rave for their headers and CAI's.
You lost me with the first half of that... I do know what the HotShot is, however, if you are referring to the manifold. If I start to bring in extra cash at some point I'll be looking heavily at this. Anyone know what the price range is? I don't know where the best bargains are at, so I'm unlikely to find the best deal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack
1. Genuine Nissan oil filter...............$5 at local dealer
2. Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil.............around $4 to $5 a quart at Walmart
3. 1 Can of RESTORE (Oil Additive)...about $5
4. K&N drop in Air Filter..................around $40 at local car parts store
Here's a list of what parts are new, and it hits a lot of what you said. By new I mean less than 3 months old:
I have verified that both the air filter and spark plugs are in good working order. How much difference are things like the oil additive or a different kind of oil going to make? Also, heres a new question, how do I check my idle speed, and what should it be at?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerFry
Have you ever let the oil get too low in the engine? If so that could do some damage and explain your loss of power.
It's possible that it got too low while I was leaking, but my low oil light seems to be accurate, as it came on every so often while I was leaking, and then went off when i refilled. I checked the plugs (actually, just one) to make sure that it wasnt corroded from overheating. Still looked like new, nothing wrong with it. I dont remember if I said this in my earlier post, but we also cleaned off carbon on the attatchment on the other end of the plug wires (attatches to the piece you adjust timing with.)
Allright, some final questions"
What cap is it that I'm cleaning? Same for the rotor?
Where is my fuel filter, how do i get it out, and whats an est. cost on replacement?
The 02 Sensor, is that the plug in my manifold? Is there a way to check it, and whats the replacement cost?
Yeah, I know theres more, but... oh wait, one more thing.
Theres an exhaust leak right now, probably new since my dad detached the pipe from the manifold. I have a new gasket for that particular junction on order from Napa, and I'll be replacing whatevers in there and closing up that connection tomorrow. What affect would this have on me?
Allright, now I think I'm done. Thanks again for all the help guys, if you ever run into me looking for computer help, I'll return the favor. At least I'm willing to learn and get better at tweaking my car.
How much difference are things like the oil additive or a different kind of oil going to make?
Well, for day to day driving it's not necessarily a quantifiable difference, since every motor is unique in what kind of shape it is in. However, I'd just recommend the synthetic oil and the Restore additive for longevity's sake. Read this if you're not entirely convinced...
I'm just going out on a limb and guessing your car has quite a few miles, judging by it's age. Some sort of consideration for the aging motor should be made, in my opinion, and this is just one step in the process. Good luck with the oil leak issue.
Yeah, I suppose I should have mentioned that, its running at 156k right now, but thats only a few thousand more than last august when I bought it, so it shouldnt be running much worse.
Ok... on second though this may not be the correct room to have this in. If I should have gone to the GA16 specific forum, someone w/ power can feel free to move me.
Done.
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Freaking rusted piece of crap... I was cranking one of the 3 bolts on the connection between the exhaust and manifold, and of course it snapped. For some reason that connection wont come together right when its bolted together. So now I have to get it out (lucky me it broke off w/ 3/8" sticking out) and find a replacement bolt. I got a new 'gasket' from NAPA, but its not what I thought it was. Its a metal O ring type thing, and there wasnt anything like that in the first place, so I'm not sure if I should use it... BAH!
that gasket is for the junction further down the pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold. As far as I know, there is no gasket that goes there, and yeah.. I've broken a few of those bolts myself..
As far as oil leaks go, let us know if replacing the oil pan gasket helps. It did on my old ga16i, at least until I blew it up because of a radiator leak.
HotShot headers run about $400 dollars from what I've seen, but I don't know all the best deals either, maybe someone else can clear that up.
When I first got my GA16DE, it needed an oil change badly. I put in Mobil 1 because I plan on keeping this car for a while. It made a drastic improvement from what I could tell, but again, when I got it, it needed an oil change, so I have little to compare to.
There are a lot of options as far as aftermarket engine parts go. Right now I'm getting ready to spend about $100 dollars in general maintenance stuff like fuel filter, O2 sensor, pcv, and a bunch of other stuff. I'm considering a POP charger, but I might stick with a regular drop-in K&N for now.
Luckily the car came with new tires all around, but I think the axles need to be replaced, since the outer boots were torn up to shreds, and the split boots I put on aren't doing the trick. I get a loud thump from the front when I start to accelerate, but it's intermittent, and doesn't feel like an outer CV joint going bad. Maybe something with the tie rods..
Anyway enough of my rambling. I would recommend getting a haynes manual, since it will clear up a lot of the questions you might have with the timing. Although the ECU messes with the timing once the car warms up, I hear. It will also have all the instructions for setting the idle. I've got an extra one I could send ya that came with the B12 I resurrected and then killed.
Well since your new to cars I should tell you that you have not checked your timing correctly on this car properly! Your car's timing is probally not set at 10 degrees. There is a very good procedure in the searches if you want to double check me because I may forget something. Run the enging until it has been up at proper operating temp, before you shut off the car rev it past 3000 rpms 3 times. Shut the car off. Unplug the tps sensor (I don't know where it is on a B13, my B14 actually has 2 plugs for 1 sensor). Start the car up and rev it past 3000 rpm's 3 times again, now it will disable the ecu and lock it into "timing" mode.
So before you spend any money on parts be sure that you have the timing correctly. If your unsure of what the timing marks mean then search because I just found the post that describes it. Hopefully you just don't have the timing set right. I don't think that you have that many miles that it should run like crap. These are good engines....
I realize that I'm a needy guy when it comes to cars, but I'm learning. It's a learn-as-I-go process, the same as when I learned electrical routing and wiring when I installed my stereo.
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