Head gasket replace... - Nissan Forum
GA16DE 1.6L Engine Engine Discussion: 91-99 Sentra, 95-98 200SX, 91-93 NX1600

 
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post #1 of 12 Old Apr 9th, 2017, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Head gasket replace...

Hey all! So, I gotta replace the head gasket of my sentra... but i have a few questions before i start.

should i replace the cylinder head bolts? the fsm doesnt say anything about replacing them.

should i replace the valve seals while everythings off? also do i have to resurface the head and/or block even if it isnt warped? would the engine block even warp??

oem vs federal mogul (aka felpro) gasket?

any other things i should do while the head is off?

thanks.


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post #2 of 12 Old Apr 10th, 2017, 05:05 PM
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If the service manual doesn't say to replace them then it's probably not needed.

If you remove the cylinder head I'd take it to a machine shop and have it checked. The engine block can warp but it's not as likely. You should still check it with a straight edge to be sure, though.

Unless there is some inherent problem with the OEM gasket that's what I'd use. Consider that it got you this far before it failed. What caused it to need a head gasket? Did it overheat?

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post #3 of 12 Old Apr 10th, 2017, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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the weird thing is i dont know why the head gasket failed! i just didnt start the car for a few days then poof! broken head gasket!


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post #4 of 12 Old Apr 15th, 2017, 11:11 PM
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That almost never happens. Head gaskets don't just fail for no reason, usually unless it's real high mileage. Usually there is an overheating event that precedes the head gasket failure.

I just replaced the thermostat and put in all new coolant hoses (all 10 of them) on mine, to hopefully prevent just such a problem.

Next project is a new AC compressor, condenser, rubber hoses, filter-dryer, and expansion valve.

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post #5 of 12 Old Apr 16th, 2017, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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well the car has past 300k kilometers and its been sitting for 9 years since then...

ive already replaced all my coolant hoses due to them cracking.




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post #6 of 12 Old Apr 19th, 2017, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: just one more question, i got the head out and 4 of the lifters fell off (when i turned the head upside down). i forgot to mark them so i dont know the original positions... is it okay if they get interchanged?


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post #7 of 12 Old Apr 21st, 2017, 03:14 PM
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Those are measured spacers for valve adjustment. They may be the same but they may not. You'll need to measure their thickness to determine. If you get the head reconditioned they may be able to help you.

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post #8 of 12 Old Apr 22nd, 2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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alright thanks, im replacing all the valves so i think i have to check the clearances and change the shims anyway...


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post #9 of 12 Old Apr 23rd, 2017, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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question again: is the engine block surface clean enough?







ive been using scotch brite pads and wd-40 to clean the gasket surface...


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post #10 of 12 Old Apr 23rd, 2017, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carguy101 View Post
Hey all! So, I gotta replace the head gasket of my sentra... but i have a few questions before i start.

should i replace the cylinder head bolts? the fsm doesnt say anything about replacing them.
Most vehicle manufacturers use Torque-To-Yield (T-T-Y) head bolts, especially on engines with aluminum heads. They provide more consistent clamping loads across the entire head-to-block mating surface. Since T-T-Y bolts are designed to stretch, reusing them can cause improper or uneven torque and clamping force. Stretched bolts can damage threads in the engine, especially on aluminum blocks, and since the bolts are weakened, they may break if re-torqued. You should always replace the bolts.

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post #11 of 12 Old Apr 23rd, 2017, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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thanks, ill replace the head bolts. they're a bit rusty anyways...


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post #12 of 12 Old Apr 23rd, 2017, 03:52 PM
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I might also add:

T-T-Y bolts are tightened in a series of stages and in sequence. T-T-Y bolts are generally tightened in sequence to what is known as a snug torque value. This snug value is to ensure that the component, in this case say a cylinder head is firmly located on the block. Torque is further applied in sequence through a series of motions only this time instead of torque load being measured, angle of rotation is measured by using an angle wrench.

Follow the tightening specs as outlined in the FSM. Always clean the threads where the bolts pass through, any thread damage, corrosion or rust will create excessive friction giving you a false torque reading, robbing you of valuable clamping force. Using engine oil, lightly oil the threads and under the heads/washers on the T-T-Y bolts as specified by the FSM. Clean, oiled threads prevent binding, allowing for accurate and consistent torquing. Be careful not to over-oil the bolts, especially if they are threading into a blind hole. Too much oil will hydro-lock the bolt and give false torque readings.

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