Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE btw, you would get more horsepower out of the Ghetto airbox mod than from a sh*tty $20 cone filter. You pay for what you get...
Ok, explain the logic for this, why would anyone put a cone filter on their car if they can somehow make more power from modifying the shitty stock system.
yeah i think im gonna now go with a CAI and hotshot headers, and maybe try to do some advanced timing depending on the price, i will just get a new muffler to improve the apperance and get a little better flow, my car just got a tune up like 2 months ago so its all set, the only mods i have done to it is 16inch motegi rims with 205/40 tires, a cd player, some subs, and for my birthday my friends bought me a ton cheap little things like racing pedals and floor mats and seatbelt pads, so now im looking into doing engine work and i dont wanna fuck it up, and i wanna keep it cheap
I said the $20 cone filter is worse than the Ghetto airbox mod. The POP filter will blow both away. those cheap cone filters at auto zone are a ricers dream. the only adventages you get with those things are that they come in red, yellow, and blue (if you call those advantages). If you want a good WAI (or CAI cone) use a cone from Jim Wolf, Ingen, or K&N. Why do you think most of us have $100+ WAI's when anyone could go to Auto zone and spend $20 on one. BECAUSE YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET.
POP CHARGERS ARE NOT A WASTE OF MONEY!!!
the only thing better is a CAI (in which they STILL use a POP cone on the end).
Damn, DHO went all out with the silicone couplings and everything, nice job! I didn't do the MAF to TB piping, too much work.
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Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE btw, you would get more horsepower out of the Ghetto airbox mod than from a sh*tty $20 cone filter. You pay for what you get...
Not necessarily, I've had several people tell me that the cheap filter works as well as the higher priced ones.
It'd be cool if someone could do some dyno testing to verify this beyond a reasonable doubt.
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Last edited by toolapcfan : Jul 12th, 2002 at 11:58 AM.
Do the timing advance yourself Minor Threat. Spend some money on a decent timing light, I think JC Ripme has a nice one that's got a tach built into it. It's easy to do.
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Originally posted by dho I agree! I made my custom CAI with mandrel bends and with the pop charger down in the wheel well. I have an automatic and the tires break loose with 195/50/15's close to 5,000rpm in 1st gear! Here's some pics:
yeah i think im gonna now go with a CAI and hotshot headers, and maybe try to do some advanced timing depending on the price, i will just get a new muffler to improve the apperance and get a little better flow, my car just got a tune up like 2 months ago so its all set, the only mods i have done to it is 16inch motegi rims with 205/40 tires, a cd player, some subs, and for my birthday my friends bought me a ton cheap little things like racing pedals and floor mats and seatbelt pads, so now im looking into doing engine work and i dont wanna fuck it up, and i wanna keep it cheap
Hotshot has a 10% off or something like that if you buy both their cold air intake and their header. I'd leave the muffler alone till you get your exhaust done. You'll be spending double $$ on labor. Make sure your muffler is the same size as the exhaust. I use a 2" dynomax ultraflow welded muffler ($60) with a dual 2" resonated tip. You can listen to it on my website http://1minute.com/dan/ Here's a pic of my tip: I painted the muffler and the piping under the car with header ceramic paint. It's aluminum colored, the tip is stainless steel. I should have taken a picture from the side or something so you could see it better. Oh, please don't put a 5" tip on your car. I hated being made fun of for being rice, I don't want you to go through that either. Now if you could afford a Greddy, it'll be good.
gonzoangel -
Yes, I am still selling the extra pipes that I have. I also have a ractive filter that anyone can have for $15. It has a red heatshield on it. (Could be useful down in the fender well to keep out water) I need to sell these pipes soon before rust starts accumulating on them. They need a home and some welding, some cutting and some ceramic engine paint.
toolapcfan -
Thanks man, I don't usually get compliments! The TB to MAF pipe is the biggest restrictor. Get that to a long 2.5" pipe and you'll be happy. This is what Bob Legere suggested from working on the Mathermotorsports GA16DE. I totally agree with him about the torque increase.
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Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
Dan, i listened to your sound clips and i really like the sound of your car, and the look of it, i just picked up a 200 dollar paycheck today and i want to put it all into my car, what should my first mod be? about the CAI i dont think it would work i live in vermont its not so much the rain here as it is the snow
Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE I said the $20 cone filter is worse than the Ghetto airbox mod. The POP filter will blow both away. those cheap cone filters at auto zone are a ricers dream. the only adventages you get with those things are that they come in red, yellow, and blue (if you call those advantages). If you want a good WAI (or CAI cone) use a cone from Jim Wolf, Ingen, or K&N. Why do you think most of us have $100+ WAI's when anyone could go to Auto zone and spend $20 on one. BECAUSE YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET.
POP CHARGERS ARE NOT A WASTE OF MONEY!!!
the only thing better is a CAI (in which they STILL use a POP cone on the end).
Originally posted by MinorThreat Dan, i listened to your sound clips and i really like the sound of your car, and the look of it, i just picked up a 200 dollar paycheck today and i want to put it all into my car, what should my first mod be? about the CAI i dont think it would work i live in vermont its not so much the rain here as it is the snow
Thanks man! That one cruisin by was at 2,300rpm... the automatic didn't go into 4th gear yet. It sounds really deep at idle. I'm also running a 20" glasspack as a resonator.
How many miles are on your car? You can get a high flow cat for $188 from www.martelbros.com It's a bolt-on cat so you should be able to do it yourself. When I put one on my car it felt like I was running a test pipe as a cat. It also made the exhaust more agressive and throaty. Also made it idle stronger.
The next step would be getting a HS header for $380-425. After that do your exhaust, you could do that for about $125 for the parts and an extra $100 for labor at a muffler shop. Go to Jegs.com for the some 2" mandrel wide radius U-Bends for $14 each x2 or so and then get you a 24" thrush glasspack $16 and a dynomax ultra-flow welded muffler $60 at summitracing.com If you want deep and throaty, get a dual resonated tip, if you want it to be louder and more ricey, just run a short 2" pipe out from the muffler (it won't bee too loud becaues of the 24" glasspack). I was lucky because I got my resonated tip for free. My setup you can barely hear inside the car going 60mph, it doesn't drone like greddy or those others would.
The reason why I recommend the 24" glasspack is because some of us can't find resonated tips so the extra 4" should make it deeper and quieter. The glasspack elimates all raspy noises that you would get without a glasspack. On my car, I have a 20" glasspack plus the dual resonated DTM dynomax tip.
My car will set off civic's and sensitive alarms because it's so deep. I sometimes feel bad because I might start up my car in a parking garage at the mall and I'll set off someone's alarm! Did I do that???
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Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
You can replace the cat if the car has more than 50,000 miles, damaged cat, or is atleast 5 yrs old. The martel part number for the Random Technology cat is 822231. The dynomax ultraflow flows 540cfm @ 2" diameter ad is straight through with a preforated core. The random tech 3" cat flows 500cfm and the one that goes on our car is a 2.5" so I'm guessing 400cfm? (Like we'd flow that much out of a 1.6, lol. Mather motorsports got 115.5 cfm on the intake port and 83.5 cfm on the exhaust port with a ported head and motor work. Factory it was 102 cfm on the intake port and 67 cfm on the exhaust port.)
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Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
Thanks alot for the information! you have been a big help i just wanted to make sure i knew what i was doing before i started anything and you have been a big help
There you will find information on what they did to make that little GA fly! Now for the guys with the extra money to spend, get a DPR Stage V head with pocket porting, 5 angle valve job, raised compression by .5 a point, cloverleaf combustion chamber, and some of his other tweaks, send him a SE-R throttle body that will work with your GA and he'll port matchem for ya. All that would cost less than $1500. I'll have to check the prices, but that's what I would do if I had that much more money. Also I sent DPR the specs for the JWT cams so he should be able to modify the head to amplify the performance gains from the cams.
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Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
I painted the muffler and the piping under the car with header ceramic paint. It's aluminum colored, the tip is stainless steel. I should have taken a picture from the side or something so you could see it better. Oh, please don't put a 5" tip on your car. I hated being made fun of for being rice, I don't want you to go through that either. Now if you could afford a Greddy, it'll be good.
Did I do that??? 
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