k, I'm going to get a new fuel filter and O2 sensor pretty soon so that I can get some better fuel economy going on. I know where the O2 sensor goes, but what about my fuel filter? I assume the filter is somewhere past the first injector (on the side of the distributer but closer to the TB, am I right). Where is it at and what do I need to do to replace it?
To replace it, you should relieve pressure from your fuel lines (Thought I didn't when I did mine. If you won't mind getting a little gas on your hands don't worry about it.) Then just take off the two lines going into and out of it, put the lines on the new filter, and there you go.
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-Matt
Team NIO, Oklahoma Captain
geocities.com/ga16desentraxe
Its very easy to find. Look under your hood, look to the left of your master cylnder (where you refill the brake fluid). You will see a gold looking filter. It has a hose comming out of the top and the bottom, and is held in place with a claw like clip. You cant miss it.
if you want to relive fuel pressure all you need to do is remove the fuse to the fuel pump and start your car and it will stall out when there is no more fuel from the pump, when i replaced mine the lines where a little tough to get off so i cut them right above the nipples its fine if you have alot of line i just didnt feel like yanking any other lines out and then havin to jack the car and so on so cut cut all done
Just a few points on changing fuel filters & O2 sensors:
1. Be careful when you're swapping fuel filters. If you're a smoker, DON'T. People often take gasoline for granted, but in reality the stuff is very dangerous. (I don't want to hear any smart-assed remarks about people putting a cigarette out in a bucket of gasoline; I've heard that this can actually be done, but I've never seen it & I don't want to, so how about you try it over there in your time zone, okay?)
2. If you don't know how to relieve the pressure beforehand, get someone to show you. This step is a must (like turning off a circuit breaker before installing a new light switch).
3. Make sure you have the proper parts before beginning, because once you get going on this, your car is temporarily disabled. The Nissan OEM was #A41-000650 (this might have changed) and the Bosch is #71574.
4. It's not a bad idea to have about 24" of new fuel line on hand; the nipples on my old filter had bonded to the rubber, and getting them off would've made a mess--so I just cut some new fuel line to fit. The size is 7.9mm (or 5/16") innner diameter. Don't skimp on this. It has to meet SAE-30R9, because this is a pressurized line.
5. Make sure you get the filter connected right-side up.
6. If you have any residual gasoline around, let it all evaporate before you crank the engine. Don't smoke or knock around anything that'll make a spark. Once you start the engine, look it over carefully to make sure your connections are good (no leaks).
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Changing the O2 sensor:
1. Again, make sure you have the right part. Buy some of that anti-seize goo, too.
2. You have to warm up the engine before removing the sensor; otherwise it's likely to bind. But be careful because that manifold is hot.
3. I bought a special socket with a slot cut up the side to accommodate the pigtail. If you get a brand X socket, it could easily twist out of shape (I used to have this problem with cheap tools, so I always get the best I can find: preferably Craftsman, SK, Snap-On).
4. Back the old sensor out nice & easy.
5. Get a rag & clean the threads on the manifold with alcohol or something. Then ease the new sensor in & out hand-tight.
6. When you put install the new sensor for good, put a daub of anti-seize compound around the male threads. HOWEVER: If you get this goo on the sensor louvers (the tip that holds the element), odds are good you've ruined the sensor.
7. Do NOT use a "generic" or "universal" sensor. Either buy the OEM or a dedicated one (I used the Bosch #11051).
8. If you have to trim the pigtail, wrap the wires with a layer of high-temperature Teflon and/or silicone tape--but not so thick that you can't slip the rubber boot over it.
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well-maintained winter blue B13 w/4-speed auto OD still itching for some upgrades (90+K on the clock)
ok, I did mine this past weekend (on both the sentra and the maxima). I unplugged the pump fuse while the engine was running and eventually the engine stalled out. When I finally popped the hoses off, there was PLENTY of fuel left over. right now, both cars are running smoother and I think I may actually get a 300mi tank FINALLY. I still may replace th O2 sensor in the near future.
if you ever plan on running race gas, buy one of the new denso o2 sensors. if you run enough race gas it will kill your sensor. i need to replace mine as well since they havent been changed in 130,xxx miles
In case there's any doubt, here's the order in which that should occur:
1. Pull the fuse to the fuel pump.
2. Start the car & run it until the engine dies.
Even so you'll have some gas left in the line, plus some that dribbles out of the fuel filter. And almost ANY amount of gas can be dangerous. So be careful.
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well-maintained winter blue B13 w/4-speed auto OD still itching for some upgrades (90+K on the clock)
And about gasoline there is one truth most people overlook because the stuff is so common:
Gasoline burns just like hell. It ignites easily & it burns like hell.
Lots of people who finally learn this the hard way have been working around gasoline & taking it for granted for many years, and in one instant--maybe when they're tired or somebody just blows it--a simple mistake--their lives change permanently.
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well-maintained winter blue B13 w/4-speed auto OD still itching for some upgrades (90+K on the clock)
Tips on changing fuel filter
Safety note: depressurizing fuel line
Gasoline is dangerous
Linear Mode
