97 Sentra GXE. I changed the timing chains and had the head reworked. The engine runs fine. Actually it runs great. But after about 15 - 20 miles, it lost all oil pressure. I replaced the oil filter and sender. There is no oil getting up to the valve train. Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this? Is there an oil pressure relief valve that could get stuck? Any ideas would be welcomed. I would like to explore all possibilities before I have to pull the timing cover again.
Thanks in advance
The oil pump is integral of the front cover. The pressure regulator is on the right side of the front cover; refer to part code "15132T" in the diagram linked below. An issue with the oil pickup tube could also cause a lack of oil pressure.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
So apparently when your 18 yr old son who is helping forgets to put in the O ring and tighten the oil pick up tube up, the engine will loose oil pressure. Thanks all who replied.
How long did you run the engine without oil pressure?
I'm going to assume the pressure was low the whole time (that 15-20 minutes) and only at the end did the light finally come on...
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
He went to work a couple of times. 3-4 miles away. And the light was not on. Then he drove down the street for about 3 blocks, and then the light went on. He shut the car off and I towed it home. Then I must have run it about a total of 4 minutes while I was running tests and checking for oil pressure. Then once it started it took about (it seemed like a lifetime) 30 seconds for the filter to fill and the light to go out. The engine sounds really good now. Its so quiet I can hear the injectors.
Jeeze...there's a crapshoot for ya...
3-4 miles, a couple times, with most likely really low oil pressure. I suppose if it wasn't "rodded" during that time, probably minimal if any damage done, at least not on the top end.
3 blocks which turned into an oil light...probably the same there too, but the engine was probably colder the normal ops temp. More wear there than when at temp.
4 minutes idling, checking around...same there.
Keep your ears on it over time. At the first hint of any bearing noise, change them before any damage takes place. meh...I wouldn't doubt if it ran another 100K without any issues.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
Well I can only hope. But you are right, I will keep my ears on it. I hope that it will go another 100k that would be awesome. Thanks again for all of your advice and help.
Actually, now that I think about it, I might just go ahead and change the rod bearings anyway. Now that I can take the pan off in about 12 minutes flat.....
I wouldn't!
Let it run for an oil change, drain the oil, check the pan during the next change.
No sense dicking with something that ain't really broke.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
Then once it started it took about (it seemed like a lifetime) 30 seconds for the filter to fill and the light to go out. The engine sounds really good now. Its so quiet I can hear the injectors.
JDG is right. Since the engine is quiet now with no metallic knocks, there's absolutely no reason to replace any bearings. If you're interested to see what the oil pressure is, hook up a temporary oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure sensor location. The readings should be 7 - 27 psi at idle and 50 - 64 psi at 3,000 RPM.
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