Got a 96 Sentra with 102K. Lately I notice that whenever I try stepping on the gas pedal, especially at highway speed, I feel the car's not really responding & hesitation occurs every now & then no matter how hard I step on the pedal. No error codes showing though. Feels as if like kinda running out of gas. Appreciate any input.
A) Full tune up, filters, Nissan OEM parts, NGK plugs, dist. cap, dist. rotor, plug wires, set the timing, set the base idle.
B) Ever change the upper timing chain tensioner? Does it sound like a sewing machine and/or diesel engine when it's sitting there idling?
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
Got it. Will try suggestions. With regards to solution B, engine really doesn't sound anything like a sewing machine or a diesel engine. Sounded fine actually. Will keep you folks posted. Many thanks.
You might also want to get a multimeter and check both your throttle position sensor (TPS) and your mass air flow sensor (MAF). The Haynes manual has directions on how to do it, and it only takes 10 minutes.
You could also try some CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner, available at any autoparts store for $7.
You might also want to test your oxygen sensor with a multimeter. Don't accidentally set it to ohms if you have a zirconian sensor, it can brake it. Set it to 20 DC (line with 3 dots under it) volts, and after a couple minutes it should go from .1 - .2 volts to a higher number, like .3 - .5 volts. They say the voltage is supposed to fluctuate, but my single wire O2 sensor is brand new(cost me $15 at Autozone) and it doesn't.
In the module itself inside the distributor, if you've got a transistor that's leaky, it'll effectively decrease the dwell time, which will make it stumble on acceleration.
Same basic thing that used to happen "back in the day" with an engine that used points.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
SO I am having a bad hesitation on my 1.6 95 nissan 200sx. has 149k miles on it manual trans. Ive replaced all filters, spark plugs( with the irodium plugs) oil change, new clutch and flywheel, and a rebuild transmission, new axles, tires, inner and outter tie rods, and wheel alignment. i commute 100 miles a day and try my best to keep this car takin care of. This car however seems to hesitate very bad from third gear thru 5th gear while getting up to speed(heavy on the gas pedal) get on freeway and it will shake like no other( I can watch the shifter shake terribly). However once I reach my disired speed, the shake goes away. Ive had this issue for about 6 months. only engine code I have is P500 for speed sensor which has been on about 2 years off and on. The timing has been set several times by a shop as well as idle adjusted. Now the shop told me that the timing was a pain to set as it bounces around.(timing chain doesnt have much slack as the shop says) Ive had a 200sx before this car and I had to replace the distributor due to the shaft being so worn into the cam it had a lot of play. Now ive taken the cap off and tried to move the rotor, it seems tight, very very minimal free play. ive cleaned the MAF sensor, tested the TPS, took off EGR valave and cleaned it and checked for function, replaced cracked vaccum lines, and still have the issue. Had the car at smog shop to check emmissions and they said the CAT is working fine as emissions are low. Kind of stuck here but after reading this post, wondering if you guys sugest repalcing the distributor. By the way, ive pulled the plugs out after about 1,000 miles and they still look like new, so Im stuck at the point looking for suggestions, thanks. One more note regarding speed sensor, its brand new and its been tested on the table prior to install and it functions but the light is always on showing P500, Ive removed the cluster and cleaned the contact points, light went off about a month and its back on again and crusie is inop once again. Thanks for your input
Last edited by autorepairguy408; Jan 6th, 2013 at 02:51 PM.
Ask the shop if they were unplugging the TPS when adjusting the timing. I bet they weren't, because even my haynes manual doesn't mention it. If they timed the car with the TPS plugged in, then it is wrong, likely very wrong.
X2 on ^^^^^ as far as setting the timing correctly.
However, generally, if you set it without doing it right, you'll end up with a bog crappy feeling engine because the timing ends up so far retarded.
Double check the timing, check the vacuum @ idle, check the compression, check the fuel pressure, plug gap, etc.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
so today i checked the timing myself with the OBD II scanner hooked up as well to see what it shows as the timing. Its set at 8 with the TPS unhooked, and the idle around 700 RPM which is saYS it should be 675. On the balancer its also showing 8 degrees. So now with the TPS hooked up, the timing at IDLE shows abou 63degrees at idle. and the idle runs aroun 850RPM. I pulled the distributor out and checked it. The inside is clean considering the 17 years its been on the car. One thing I noticed is the rotor shaft seems a lil bit loose, so i took off the rotor and under it is a screw on the shaft, i was able to turn it about 1/8" turn. So it was indeed loose. Now re installed and re set timing, drove it to work, and the power is much better but it still has hesitation. i can watch the tach bounces when its hesitating. So with frustration I have ordered a new distributor. and the plugs are pre gapped irodium plugs. I will be doing a compression check tomorrow, for peice of mind.
also installed a new PVC valve, and it has a new K&N air filter and new wix fuel filter. I also checked the battery terminals and replaced both ends with new ones. The battery is about 14.3 volts while running and about 12.6 when car is off, while running I unhooked battery and it continued to run on its on.
Watch that rotor screw. It's been known to fall off at the worst time. Put some locktite on it.
If the timing was actually at 63 degrees, it wouldn't run. However, 63 / 2 = 31.5 degrees. Under ECU control 31.5 degrees at idle, is reasonable. If the timing was set at 8 degrees while under ECU control, you'd be about 23 degrees too far behind.
USE THE PROCEDURE IN THE STICKIES for setting your base timing and idle. It won't work just winging it by pulling the TPS.
Hesitation - If you can get the idle to bounce around, hook up a timing light to each plug and watch it for awhile.
The crank position sensor, while it's not setting a code in the ECU, can (and ends up pissing off a lot of people off over time) cause all sorts of stupidness to happen.
If it was me...redo the base timing and base idle ACCORDING TO THE PROCEDURE IN THE STICKIES HERE ON THE FORUMS!!!, and swap out the crank position sensor and see what happens.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
thanks for the info I will get a new Crank Sensor as well and thanks. and yes on the OBDII the advance timing does show it as 63 degrees at idle I knoiw it seemed odd but its what it has on the screen. Thanks for the info I will start over and see what I get with new distributer and sensor
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