So I took off the idle valve and cleaned it and it idles smoother. I took off the EGR canister and I can get air thru the canister, but a question I have is my EGR valve functions with a self test but with it running and me playing with the RPMs I can not get any vacuum at the diaphragm. So that's why I removed the canister and I get air thru the whole thing except nothing at all from the top vaccine port on top of the purge valve the top port on the canister valve. Any ideas
The haynes manual says to rev the engine between 2000 and 3000 rpms and make sure the EGR valve moves. You can feel it move like how this guy is depressing it at minute 0:43
The FSM says to warm up the engine, rev the engine at 2000 RPMs and keep it there, disconnect vacuum hose to egr, and make sure vacuum exists by putting your finger over the vacuum line.
If that isn't working or even if it is, it then wants you to do a bunch of electrical testing.
You and Judge been a big help just want to say thanks. So I will do this test and see again how it holds up but yesterday I know I was trying everything and I was not getting any vaccum to the line hooked up to EGR valve, but the big line from intake that goes to canister has so much vaccum that when disconnected it kills engine. also a small vaccum port under throttle body that goes to the EGR switch has great vaccum. I question that EGR switch being its electrical because its a ported vaccum switch and if it doesnt function it wont also vaccum to pass. I tried to find the FSM and didnt find it, however I have the haynes manual and in it doesnt touch these subjects
Might have the wrong "version" of the Haynes manual. Apparently there's two different versions out there with the same title/numbers/etc. One has bad info for setting the base idle/timing/etc as well.
My version of the Haynes manual has plenty of info in it for checking EGR, vacuum, solenoids, etc.
The EGR info is in the FSM, don't remember where, but it's in there...I used it.
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99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
Don't remember for sure and I'm not at my PC with the FSM on it.
Thinking yes, but not in the way you're probably thinking.
Moving vs. idling at a stoplight are two different areas of operation as far as the ECU is concerned.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
just got it smogged today and it passed. I have to still take TB off and clean it and do a fuel pressure check as my original issue still happens. So far everything Ive done has made the car b etter
You're welcome. You will also want to disconnect a vacuum line to the FPR to make sure it's ok too. The fuel pressure should be different with that vacuum lined connected and disconnected. The FSM has the details. Mostly in the FSM you will want to read up on the EC chapter. Here is the FSM: Download PDF search | PDFTown.com
Ill download that from my computer. Just drove the car to work up here in San Francisco and I have almost a 40 mile commute one way and ill tell ya this car ran great had plenty of power and did well passing cars. I'm really happy that this thing has found it's lost power. I will be doing a compression test, and fuel pressure test on Thursday just to see where my numbers are at and will have the new distributor installed as well. I noticed that vibration seems to be coming from right front so ill be looking into that real heavy. Like I mentioned before that the inner and putter tie Rods on both sides been replaced about three weeks ago and right from wheel bearing. New brakes and rotors too. And right side axle. The vibration only happens while under heavy load, if I push in clutch it goes away
Replaced the distributor reset timing timing and wow it's like new, as for vibration, well march of last year I replaced drivers side axle, after testing car with new distributor I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel, jacked the car up, turned wheel by hand forward and back ward, the axle was simply worn, I felt lots of play in the cv joints , mainly inner, replaced axle, drove it up n down the highway, smooth as can be and the power is great, took it in the hills and no slug climbing . Now that half the stuff under the good is new, if say I'm good to 200,000 miles and above :-) thanks for all the advise on here, will be doing a timing chain this summer I bought the kit already
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Atomic batteries to power.
Turbines to Speed.
Rodger, ready to move out.
The world will look up and scream Save us! I'll look down and whisper no.-Rorschach
U didn't think it was gonna be that easy, did u? U know, for a second there, yea, I kinda did. Silly rabbit trix are for kids.-Kill Bill Vol 1
Scary movies don't create psychos, they make psychos appear more creative.-Scream
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