My son has a 99 Sentra 1.6. It started stalling and not wanting to start. It would then start and run for 5-10 minutes and then die and not start again for a while. He took it to a mechanic who said it needed a new distributor. I replaced the distributor and took care to make sure that the #1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke. I started the car, it ran fine for 5 minutes, died, and won't start again. Pretty much the same thing. I have googled all over the web and searched this page and can't seem to find what I am looking for, any help would be most appreciated.
Hey, thanks for the tip, anything helps where I'm at now. I am a very mechanically inclined person but not an automotive mechanic. I am trying to save my kid some money (fresh out of college) and at the same time teach him some responsibility in being able to fix your own stuff.
I had actually started down the path that it is something that is heating up as the car is heating up, just don't know what it is!
Yeah actually, I had thought about that, but the lack of stutter and the fact that when it dies it does so like you've turned the key off, it seemed more likely to be the spark.
Good update though: a buddy of mine has an OBDI 2. I ran the diagnostic and it came up with a code of "camshaft sensor circuit"? Puzzled, I did some more research and found that the camshaft sensor is located in the.... yeah you guessed it, the Distributor. After even more research I found that a [I]lot[I] of people who had bought rebuilt distributors had to return them for new ones. I called the store, explained the issue, and have a new one coming tomorrow.
Hope this fixes it and will update this tomorrow with my results.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
It's a good thing that I didn't buy that lottery ticket; I put the new distributor in and no luck. This time it ran for about 7-8 minutes and died, like before. Plugged in the OBDI and same error code came up: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit.
I can take the car to a mechanic and get it fixed, but that kinda defeats my purpose in trying to get this done for my kid.
Any of you guys out there gotta rabbit you can pull outta your hat on this? JDG, you seem to know a lot, what say you?
K, off the top of my head...
Just because the code says cam pos sensor doesn't mean it's a cam pos sensor.
In this case, I also wouldn't rule out the crank position sensor, just because it seems like those things cause (and I've said it before) all kinds of stupid to happen sometimes.
Trunk won't open? Change the crank sensor...
Muffler bearings leaking? Change the crank sensor...
A few things I guess...all can be done at the same time...
Put a voltmeter across the battery and watch it. Doesn't make a lot of sense because apparently you can crank it over after it dies, but at least it'll rule out the voltage dropping off for no reason.
Get a fuel pressure gauge, install it as applicable, and watch it after you get the engine running. Thinking maybe the fuel pump is going south, like it's got bad brushes or something (kinda like a starter that's going bad).
Runs good for awhile, then goes down the tubes.
Or, the fuel pickup screen inside the tank is full of crud, and when the engine is running, the screen is getting plugged up, eventually killing the engine. Fuel pump stops running when the engine dies, the crud kinda falls off the inlet screen over time. Go back to it awhile later, engine fires right up.
It's easy enough to get to the fuel pump, doesn't cost anything, and shouldn't take more than an hour. Lift out the back seat, unbolt the fuel pump cover, unbolt the pump inside the tank, lift out the pump, have a look see in there.
How many miles on this car?
Been driven fairly continuously or has it sat for awhile?
Had any overheating issues lately/ever?
When was the last time it had a complete tune-up? A COMPLETE tune up... Not just the plugs...not just the plug wires, EVERYTHING... Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, belts, hoses, etc.etc.etc...
When cranking the engine (whether it starts or not), do you touch/move the gas pedal?
If yes, stop it. ECM handles the idle/starting these days.
If not, give it a try (couldn't hurt even though I just said not to touch the gas pedal).
If the IACV is sticking, clogged, etc, moving the throttle just a tad will basically negate that problem and once it does start, it'll either kinda stumble off and die, or keep running no problem.
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
K, off the top of my head...
Just because the code says cam pos sensor doesn't mean it's a cam pos sensor. Agreed, however it made sense to me to replace the distributor based on the fact that the cam pos sensor is in the distributor.
In this case, I also wouldn't rule out the crank position sensor, just because it seems like those things cause (and I've said it before) all kinds of stupid to happen sometimes. Should I just replace, or is there a way to troubleshoot? Probably not, and based on the cost, should just replace.
Trunk won't open? Change the crank sensor...
Muffler bearings leaking? Change the crank sensor...
A few things I guess...all can be done at the same time...
Put a voltmeter across the battery and watch it. Doesn't make a lot of sense because apparently you can crank it over after it dies, but at least it'll rule out the voltage dropping off for no reason. Yes, can do... but not sure what I would be able prove with this
Get a fuel pressure gauge, install it as applicable, and watch it after you get the engine running. Thinking maybe the fuel pump is going south, like it's got bad brushes or something (kinda like a starter that's going bad).
Runs good for awhile, then goes down the tubes.
Or, the fuel pickup screen inside the tank is full of crud, and when the engine is running, the screen is getting plugged up, eventually killing the engine. Fuel pump stops running when the engine dies, the crud kinda falls off the inlet screen over time. Go back to it awhile later, engine fires right up. This makes a helluva lot of sense and will check ASAP.
It's easy enough to get to the fuel pump; Lift out the back seat, unbolt the fuel pump cover, unbolt the pump inside the tank, lift out the pump, have a look see in there.
How many miles on this car? 100,000+
Been driven fairly continuously or has it sat for awhile? Continuous.
Had any overheating issues lately/ever? No, not at all.
When was the last time it had a complete tune-up? Never, as far as I know. A COMPLETE tune up... Not just the plugs...not just the plug wires, EVERYTHING... Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, belts, hoses, etc.etc.etc...
When cranking the engine (whether it starts or not), do you touch/move the gas pedal? No.
If yes, stop it. ECM handles the idle/starting these days.
If not, give it a try (couldn't hurt even though I just said not to touch the gas pedal). Ha!
If the IACV is sticking, clogged, etc, moving the throttle just a tad will basically negate that problem and once it does start, it'll either kinda stumble off and die, or keep running no problem. When it dies, it's like you turned the key off; no stutter, no cough, just dead.
Thanks JDG for the help. Hopefully with your above advice and the all powerful "google" I can figure out what is going on here.
Agreed, however it made sense to me to replace the distributor based on the fact that the cam pos sensor is in the distributor.
Ya, but, you'd be surprised how many people get a code for an O2 sensor and replace the O2 sensor and bitch because the problem isn't actually the O2 sensor...know what I mean?
Quote:
Should I just replace, or is there a way to troubleshoot? Probably not, and based on the cost, should just replace.
I would think you could read the signal coming off the cam sensor to see if it's actually there and/or drops out. But you almost have to have an o-scope and/or a really good meter.
Quote:
VOLTMETER - Yes, can do... but not sure what I would be able prove with this
Like I said, just one easy thing to rule out. Voltage gets too low, ECM gets stupid.
Quote:
This makes a helluva lot of sense and will check ASAP.
It's happened to others.
Quote:
Mileage/Driven/Overheat/Tuneup
That's also one place to start...the complete tune up, and it can't hurt anything. And sooner or later, you'll be due for a new front crank seal and an upper tensioner.
Quote:
If not, give it a try (couldn't hurt even though I just said not to touch the gas pedal). Ha!
Does messing with the gas pedal help/hurt anything?
Next time it does start, rev the engine a bunch or drive it around the block. Try to use up gas quick. See if it dies out in a minute rather than 5 minutes. If it dies out quicker, that would say to me that you're using up the fuel quicker (e.g. relating back to the plugged up pickup screen in the tank, or maybe the fuel filter under the hood).
If it dies in the same amount of time, that would indicate something heating up and quitting on you (e.g. another distributor).
__________________
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
I put the new distributor in and no luck. This time it ran for about 7-8 minutes and died, like before. Plugged in the OBDI and same error code came up: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit.
Check the engine ground connections; might be loose or have oxidation. Download an FSM for your car from this web site:
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Lift out the back seat, unbolt the fuel pump cover, unbolt the pump inside the tank, lift out the pump, have a look see in there.
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