Battery drain - Nissan Forum
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#1 Old Oct 8th, 2010, 03:26 PM
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Battery drain

Ok So Im getting my B13 back on the street after almost a year. Part of the reason its been sitting is that it will drain a new battery dead in 2 days. So i started doing the usual tests. Check drain by removing ground and checking current between negative post to the ground wire. Showing 13v drain with everything connected. Disconnected all but main engine wire harness shows 6v drain. Fusible link brings it to 8v drain and the other power lead from battery brings 5v more drain to get to the 13v. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions.

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#2 Old Oct 8th, 2010, 09:11 PM
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I'm sure you tested your alternator before all this, right?

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#3 Old Oct 8th, 2010, 09:21 PM
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Yeah, one of the first things I do when I have a large parasitic draw on a battery is to remove the battery feed wire from the back of the alternator and recheck for the draw.
#4 Old Oct 9th, 2010, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kizer24 View Post
Ok So Im getting my B13 back on the street after almost a year. Part of the reason its been sitting is that it will drain a new battery dead in 2 days. So i started doing the usual tests. Check drain by removing ground and checking current between negative post to the ground wire. Showing 13v drain with everything connected. Disconnected all but main engine wire harness shows 6v drain. Fusible link brings it to 8v drain and the other power lead from battery brings 5v more drain to get to the 13v. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions.
???????????????

You say you measure current but you report voltages? ............. and very weird voltages at that too!

Can you post in a diagram format exactly what you are measuring and where? - to me this all sounds like a dud battery atm
#5 Old Oct 9th, 2010, 02:21 PM
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Just replaced the battery yesterday. Alternator was replaced in Feb. Still had drain issues.
Im connecting from the battery negative post to the ground wire disconnected from the battery.

93 Sentra SE 1.6 manual
H/I/Soon to have full custom exhaust
Short Shifter, UDP, ES Motor mounts.

“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.” - Dalai Lama (Seattle Times, 05-15-2001).
#6 Old Oct 9th, 2010, 06:46 PM
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Better to use an ampmeter with a shunt for measuring parasitic draw. Personally, I use an OTC Parasitic Draw tester; it's a nice tool but not worth investing in if you don't do a lot of battery drain issues.
#7 Old Oct 9th, 2010, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kizer24 View Post
Just replaced the battery yesterday. Alternator was replaced in Feb. Still had drain issues.
Im connecting from the battery negative post to the ground wire disconnected from the battery.
The only measurement you can perform in that specific position (negative battery terminal and just removed negative battery cable) is a current measurement - you cannot measure for voltage there and expect to make any sensible conclusion from such a measurement. In order to measure current you need something that produce an Ampere (mA or A) reading.

As smj999smj commented, one of the safest ways to do this is by shunt, or in my case I have a Fluke DC clamp meter that you simply clamp around the cable without even undoing any connections.

At this stage and looking at your reporting, I would suggest you get somebody comfortable with measuring current to help you out there because using and connecting the wrong meters in the wrong places can damage your wring loom and then you will be royally screwed
#8 Old Oct 10th, 2010, 01:08 AM
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fun with electrons......

I will give you some info that may help.
First, look for any change made to the original wiring. 90% of the time this is the stereo. If you find a change , put it back to original for testing.
Second, try the individual fuse test. With your meter hooked between the post and the cable, remove one fuse at a time until you see a volt drop.
Third, in my experience, a large drain like this is either a hot wire hitting a ground or an internally shorted alternator.
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