a yanked, grounded, cut, burned, or cracked-n-sprayed wire anywhere along the path of the injector's harness wire. a broken injector harness connector or slightly disconnected or corroded wire coming from the connector. if you haven't changed the plug wires, there could be a burned one.
beyond that?.... uh.. a wire coming from the injector might have a bad ecu harness pin, or the wire has been disconnected? u should find a buddy with the same car and do an ECU test. *i.e.-switch the ecu's, your car work?*
ppl have been saying do a leakdown test.
if for some reason those two middle piston's rings have given.. then well... you know what that means.
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dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
get a multimeter from walmart if you haven't yet. they've got nice ones.. should be red protective corners with black facing. think they're 30 or 50. extremely handy. the Omega symbol is for Ohms testing... resistance testing
the volts and other stuff, you use for testing the actions of the sensors via your FSM's instructions.
the ohms are for testing the continuity of the circuit or wire you are testing.
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dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
changed distributors it was actually running on all 4 cylinders! then idecided to take it out for a drive and it just died and went right back to not idling and then my starter went out lucky i have an extra but guys i have no clu what lse to do! could it be the ecu itsself?
You know I have been through a similer situation on a Mitsubishi six and I was searching for problems just like you and I bet you'l never guess what it ended up being? The friggen Computer! I finally through my hands in the air and sai dthere is only one othewr thing it can be! Bingo.......
crap so thats probably what it is then?? is it ok just to get one from a junkyard and swap one?? how do i know which ones are compatible? is there a certain part of the number onit?
Last edited by str8noobin : Aug 6th, 2008 at 10:04 AM.
get a multimeter from walmart if you haven't yet. they've got nice ones.. should be red protective corners with black facing. think they're 30 or 50. extremely handy. the Omega symbol is for Ohms testing... resistance testing
the volts and other stuff, you use for testing the actions of the sensors via your FSM's instructions.
the ohms are for testing the continuity of the circuit or wire you are testing.
Should be 10 ohms.
Did you swap the injectors from cylinder to cylinder (2 middle to 2 outer)?
what do you guys think about bg 44??? i heard it works really goodim thinkin about trying it before getting them cleaned
The BG 44K is a deposit remover. this works great on the removal of carbon on the tops and skirts of the cylinders. it kicks the deposits on the intake valves and exhaust valves somehow. I am not sure how this stuff works. I have used it. I removed the plugs and looked with a light into the cylinder and you can see the piston top. It was black before I used the BG44K. then After I ran it through with High octane 93+, the carbon was gone and I could read the stamping #'s on the tops of the pistons. Now, I have always used 93+ octane in the car since new, always kept new cap and rotors on the car, replaced the coil early on and changed the plugs more times than you need to and change the oil at 3 months. so the engine was not bad with deposits, but BG44K or TDC works extremely well!!!
Chris 92 classic
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