I have a 93 sentra 1.6 motor aproximatley 220,000 miles and havent had any troubles like this till now. I have been chasing a culprit or several and I finally need some input here. I have read alot of the posts and still cant figure it out.
Before I started to work on it it wouldnt idle to start with and then lost power, shakes upon acceleration and acts like timing is retarded bad or something. I have changed the plugs, new wires rotor button and dist cap. new air and gas filter, I cleaned the Iacv, sprayed ether to check for vaccum leaks, swapped the maf sensor and just put a new distributor in, It will idle better now but will not accelerate good or revv well and as I said before when you give it gas it shakes and doesnt accelerate good. I pulled the ecm and checked the codes and it says 55 or no malfunction. Please help out this is my main transport and I got to get it going.
Tommy
I have since changed the tps sensor and it didnt help. I pulled the egr valve the diaphram was good but I can blow thru the vaccum line on bottom and air passes thru it , it would seem to me this should be seated with no air passing thru till the diaphram opened it, this would also cause exhaust gas to affect the idle wouldnt it?
Have you checked the injectors yet? (they weren't on your list)
Do they all ohm out to specs? Check them with a long screwdriver to the ear (hear them each clicking)??
I had one go out recently - causes the engine to shake like crazy just like you describe.
yes , I checked them they sounded like theywere working to me. I may need to check them closer.
egr valve was bad, the valve wasnt sealing, replaced with another and it seemed to help but motor doesnt want to idle well and accelerate still.
I am going to pull the plugs again and check, it sounds like a cylinder not hitting to me also. Anyone else chime in I am out of ideas.
well pulled plugs and checked had 1 wasnt burning and 1 slightly less bad, 2 others look good. Injectors were clicking fine , I pulled connection off of bad one and noticed no difference in motor, pulled connector off one beside it and motor shut off, quess 1 is stopped up . they are 100 bucks apiece round here, reckon it can be pulled and cleaned out ok, can i reuse orings, can i remove without pulling rail and manifold? will dive into tomorrow I guess,
I just thought that have you checked your compressions? If you have blown head gasket it's possible that one cylinder could be totally out. So before buying a new injector I'd suggest you to check the pressures.. As guideline roughly one bar pressure difference is quite like max pressure difference between best and worst cylinder.
- No-Pain -
__________________
Nissan Almera (equal to Sentra) 1997 1.6 litres
Mods so far:
-Added disc brakes to rear
-All corners have got new springs and shock absorbers (monroe reflex)
-custom made 4-->1 exhaust manifold with 2" piping -Some cool kameleont painting
-Head work done. Porting, some valve job (lightening, cleaning and polishing). Intake- and exaustports on the head totally re-designed and grinded.
-Some gauges: oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, meter, lambda and external rev. meter with change ligth
-Free flow air-filter (calculated intake pipe lenght) with CAI.
-Lightened battery, moved to back
You still need to put a meter to them and check the Ohms.
FSM states 10 Ohms - anything above 13 should be rebuilt
With that many miles on the clock it would probably be a good idea to pull the whole rail.
and replace the bad one and put new o-ring kits on the rest ($5 each at O'Reilys)
pulled the rail, all the plastic end pieces on bottom of injector broke getting them out, can I buy them besides the orings, what are they distributors\
found a company in arizona that will rebuild and clean rail for 100 bucks may go ahead and do that, I know one of mine is stopped up so wont be that much more to have mine rebuilt and if necessary a new rebuilt 1 is 55 extra.
Last edited by hrlykngt : May 31st, 2008 at 10:38 PM.
Reason: add more to post
pulled the rail, all the plastic end pieces on bottom of injector broke getting them out, can I buy them besides the orings, what are they distributors\
found a company in arizona that will rebuild and clean rail for 100 bucks may go ahead and do that, I know one of mine is stopped up so wont be that much more to have mine rebuilt and if necessary a new rebuilt 1 is 55 extra.
Are you saying the plastic tips of the injectors broke, or the insulators that hold the injector in the motor?
This company will rebuild all the injectors (since there is nothing in the rail that can be rebilt) and clean the rail for $100??
After installing the rebuilt injectors, I am still having a rough idle and hesitation upon acceleration, once it get past that it runs great. The injectors made a huge difference. TPS adjusted wrong? I am at a loss and broke now, please help.
TPS should throw a code.
yes maybe not sensing the demand for Acceleration properly and not en-riching the mixture enough.
The FSM has the TPS specs, i checked mine once when it threw a code.
Also check the MAF against specs even though you changed it out.
If there is no code check your timing and ignition again.
How do the plugs look now ?
How many miles on the motor ?
My 93 1.6 SE needed the MAF grounding, a good Throttle body cleaning, soaked the IACV for about 15minutes (removing the solenoids first), re-plumbed all the EGR vacuum lines, checked the EGR for sticking. General 110k maintenance.
Last edited by SentraFred : Jun 12th, 2008 at 08:31 AM.
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