Battery, Connectors, Starter or Alternator

Rama · May 23rd, 2008, 05:52 PM

Ok I can't tell what is wrong with the car this time. It died during driving. First the radio went out then the speedometer dropped while I was still driving the car sputtered and died. My e-brake light and battery light were and then my airbag light came on. I tried starting it again and it there was sort of a hi-pitch beep/squeal came on and tried to turnover but didn't start I don't know if it's the battery(most likely), starter or alternator. I know my connectors were kind of crap I think the first thing I am going to do is is replace the cables and get the battery checked then see what's up. What do you guys think? The thing that tripped me out wasn't that it wouldn't start it's that it died during driving.

IanH · May 25th, 2008, 05:10 PM

If it died when driving and the battery is now flat then its the alternator.
Batt and e-brake light on together is also the alternator not charging.
Yes check the battery, charge it up, and check connections.
Once its started check that you have 14.5 V across the battery and lights are out.
If so the Alternator is working. i dont think it is....
Good Luck.

joeli16 · May 26th, 2008, 02:13 AM

If you can jump start your car,it's almost certain it's the alternator,especially with the high pitch buzzing noise you heard.Also replace the battery to be safe.
If jump start doesn't work,it is your starter or ignition switch.I don't think bad starter will shut your engine off during driving,but a bad ignition switch will.

92B13 · May 26th, 2008, 03:02 PM

My 92 Ford Thunderbird had the EXACT same problem, I would be driving just fine, All of a sudden, sputter sputter DIE.... And that was it, I had to take the battery to Autozone to get it charged. I replaced the battery(Twice) The battery connectors and the Alternator but to no avail. It was the connector that hooks up into the steering column. I realize that this is a Nissan and not a Ford, But it's just a suggestion as to what the problem could possibly be.

Rama · Jun 3rd, 2008, 12:03 PM

Ok update on the situation. So I went and got a new battery since it was under warranty and switched the negative connector since it was looking not to great it worked for a while but on a occasion the e-brake and battery light would come on. Then it started struggling starting and it then we were driving and the radio died again. Then airbag light came on luckily this time I was on the freeway and not city driving so I made it home. So I bought a new alternator belt and I was going to pull out the alternator and see if it needs cleaning or rebuilding. I wonder though if I should just get a new one?

Now as for taking the alternator out I have it unscrewed but I can't lift it out how do you take that thing out it still feels connected I unscrewed all three screws. Unless there is more? Also I noticed the alternator belt is behind the drive belt. So how do I move that out of the way? Which Pulley should I disconnect or loosen?

Rama · Jun 3rd, 2008, 05:04 PM

Oh another thing my car has over 180K on it and it's been awhile since the last alternator was changed out well over 4 years at the very least. Plus there is a lot of grease and grime around the area and I wonder how much that may be attributing to the alternators performance?

IanH · Jun 6th, 2008, 07:27 PM

Is the front crankshaft Oil seal leaking ?
re: alternator removal, remove the adjusting bolt, and mounting bolt. Sometimes you have to pry it out of the mount.

Rama · Jun 11th, 2008, 07:17 PM

Pry it out from what angle though? I can't tell where it's stuck at? Just pry it so that it comes straight up or the do the bottom arms where the bolts go need to come out slightly for it to lift up?

IanH · Jun 12th, 2008, 02:56 PM

Yes, where the alt pivots, the bolt lock the arms onto the Alt, and this is very tight.