my car is ga16det i have looked throug timing, spark, fuel, boost leaks. the only thing left could be the ecu? its hard as hell to start the car u usually have to pump the gas pedal on a fuel injected car? and it will rev up with really like throttle all the way to redline but if u give it like 15 percent or more the car just shuts it self off like its a bad maf but its not i already swaped them out
Look into getting a calum ECU.........It will be more tunning friendly in the long run. Having room for making adjustments on your setup will be optional instead of having a set program keeping you power at a stand still for the most part.
yeah i will look into that but i order another ecu for like 50 bucks to see if it is bad or not. it cant be in limp mode cause if it was it would stop at like 3000 rpms i think. it reves all the way to reline on light light trottle.
Well, I know he is/was active on SR20Forum, so you might be able to contact him there. Or you can contact him if he is a member here (dunno his member name if he is). He's Calum on SR20Forum; there's a subforum in the vendors section for CalumSult.
that sux man... you said u checked boost leaks... maybe vacuum or intake leak? excess air makes a car redline or highrev when turning it on.. check your injectors? more air than fuel does same thing i would think... just guessing though.
*****check the wires?***** continuity
it's a possibility to get a factory defect ecu, but most only go bad if you hit/drop it, get it wet, or short it out. like something drawing too much power.... and what causes that is something not having correct resistance... any sensor that might be not good that's letting too much power buy it... but there's not very much between the batt and ecu... and i'm not sure but i think they are regulated to take direct current if that happens. so only a friggen lightning strike or falling electric lines would do that. lol.
go get one out of a yard and switch it out to see if it is the ecu. ecu's are usually good way past the death of the car, but you have to make sure you're pulling one from a car that doesn't look like they threw the whole car around with a forklift.
you can still run an engine w/o the maf... it's the TPS and the CPS you gotta worry bout. and any relays, fuses that somehow are letting too much power by... but that would be really really wierd. like if someone put in the incorrect amp fuse in the wrong slot. or if a relay is stuck closed... but that's nearly impossible.
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dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
did you rewire the maf at all? you need to check the reference voltage on the maf to see what youre getting.
what about the idle air control valve or tps?
in the fsm, if you have to pump the pedal to start, it points to a bad iacv.
^www.sr20-forum.com aka "The-Dash" It's the NEW SR20 FORUM........The old one had a buy out and all the REAL active members started there on community.
the maf sensors use the same plug in so no i didnt rewire anything. and i thought it might be the tps so i just swapped out the whole throttle body with another one i had and it didnt do anything, where is the IACV located at?
i only know my 240 but for the majority sake i'm guessing most are somewhat the same... not really but it's on the intake no matter what.
the throttle lets in air... it's tied into the collector which is connected to the intake manifold... then into the head.
the IACV idle air control valve... on mine is the idle adjust screw, the solenoid valve and control valve. it's located on the back of mine by all the vacuum hoses. i'v seen the IACV on top of beamers, in a carborator... look at your manual or ask a shop...
it's basically allowing more air to enter the engine during certain times.. i can't remember exactly what but it's to do with helpin on fuel efficiency/valvetiming/plain keeping the right amount of air entering engine... as well as low rpm probs i think. on mine it's also tied in with the cold start (IACV part) so the engine idles higher when it's cold, helping it warm up right.
__________________
dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
"The-Dash"
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