I'm tempted to buy a WAI (for the Sentra) as seen on eBay, but what's the point? as it will be drawing in warm air verses my stock box which is pretty much isolated from the engine heat even though it has the restrictive paper filter.
Correct?
Stock box has a small opening to get air vs a cone type filter charger where its not restricted to any small hole. Also, have you checked out Autozone lately? I bet you can make your own WAI or CAI from the available pipes.
WAI really won't give you that much of a performance gain if at all.. you're correct that it will heatsoak faster than the stock unit. Benefits of a WAI is a neater engine bay and possible small gains. CAI is definitely much better.
WAI is a great mod, cheap and easy to put one together. Most the HP gains will be seen in the higher RPM range, especially on the freeway above 60mph.
Small saving in fuel consumption is another benefit.
Great fist mod to any car.
You can always upgrade to a CAI later.
Last edited by Sethticlees : Jul 3rd, 2006 at 01:22 AM.
i would get the part, then make it into a cai. i made my own but i didn`t have a wai to satr with i made a wai. then took it a little bit more and made it into a cai. but you have to be carefull with a cai you will suck up water.
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97gxe sentra. ga16de, auto, cold air intake, catback,15inch rims,rockford sterio system,apc tack,apc fire bottle,
led neon under car kit, plugs,wires, sturt tower brace front and rear. coil overs, sway bars. drift front and rear kit, with exstream sides. jim wolf ecu, jim wolf cams.new mods ( junk yard in the sky ) RIP 14 aug 06 6am
2008 altima 2.5sl pebble beach. stock for now. bought 26may08 7:30pm
1964 ford falcon 2dr hardtop. 200 inline 6
2003 sporttrac xlt gold 260whp. xcal tune,intake,spacer, and full exhaust system
gone but not forgotten,
2004 buick rendezvous cx traded.
1997 nissan sentra gxe rip
1998 ford contur se sport
1992 ford excort lx hatchback
1980 chevy scottsdale 350,585 cranck hp
1987 isuzu pup
1964 vw bug
an idea i had back then was to open up that big accumulator/resonator that's sitting behind the lh foglamp. if you look closer, the airbox snorkel behind the lh headlamp has a T to that resonator down there. instead of just taking air from the small snorkel, you can be taking air from the "opened" accumulator/resonator.
i would get the part, then make it into a cai. i made my own but i didn`t have a wai to satr with i made a wai. then took it a little bit more and made it into a cai. but you have to be carefull with a cai you will suck up water.
This has been gone over plenty of times, the only time you will suck up water with a CAI is if the filter is completely submerged... so basically, the only way to do that is to drive through a flooded area.
I thought that a CAI was no longer available for the 1.6 Sentra?
That's the only reason that I even considered a WAI. I have a CAI on my Frontier and that combined w/exhaust yields significant gains, so I am looking to do the same with the Sentra (not that I expect a commensurate increase of course).
When i had my b13 one of the first mods i did was buy a k&n drop in filter then i removed that resonator box that sits in the fender well. This free mod know as the ghetto cai mod helps draw cooler air into the stock airbox, after doing this i felt a slight power increase and the motor seemed to rev a bit easier.
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06 1.8s SE Radium: Nismo stb,Nismo rsb,aFe drop-in,HKS Sport catback,tint, 17" Racing Sparcos, Falken ze-512s.
I built my own CAI based on this guy's article Homemade CAI
The first 'stage' I did was to remove that resonator thing and the y-pipe and hack a big hole in the stock airbox, then I used 3" plumbing ABS pipe to send a big fat breather tube into the fender well - after hacking a hole through the battery tray, effectively enlarging the stock hole that is there. It helped the car breathe better and sound sweet.
The next summer I completely removed the stock setup and used (you guessed it) more 3" ABS and 3" rubber plumbing connectors to complete it - for the pipe between the throttle body and the MAF, I used 3"-to-2" reducer rubber connectors and they fit perfectly. My bends were plastic not rubber.
Well, some of the connectors had to be angled a bit in spots, but they never budged once the hose clamps were cinched down (and this was with worn motor mounts that had my engine torquing like a muhfuggah). Also, the vacuum fittings were tricky, I had the wrong size ones, I forget what I used but measure your stock stuff carefully.
I saved the MAF adapter thing from the stock airbox and re-used it - if you are patient and carefully cut little pieces out of the rubber where the bolts go, you can fit a 3" rubber connector over the end of it.
One hint is to definitely not glue any of the ABS fittings together until you are CERTAIN that your fit is good.
And I made a seriously ghetto connector to clamp my cone filter on to, using like 4"-to-3" reducer aluminum sheet metal DRYER HOSE connector which slips nicely over 3" ABS (which I siliconed on too and also hose-clamped on to be sure) and the other end of which is teh right size for a RACTIVE universal filter to clamp on to.
By the way, those filters are not washable. Do not believe anyone who says they are washable once or you will end up with sandy silty shiznit in your engine
I now have an oversized K&N filter in there but it hardly fits. I bought the drycharger bag to put over it because after winter I found dried salt stains inside the whole intake and a corroding MAF - the filter is in a prime location to get directly sprayed with road salt and stuff - mayeb one of those shielded filers would work better for those of us with nasty winters. Or a blockoff to put in that corner bumper hole. MAKE SURE YOU PUT all the required little plastic rivets in place on that splashguard in the wheel well to keep your filter good. The only ones I could find that fit well I get at Nissan.
This year I tried putting 2" ID metal pipe for MAF-to-TB, in a pathetic attempt to copy a Hotshot design. The low-end seemed better but less higher-end (with stock exhaust); with my new exhaust it is maybe too restrictive. I also made it slightly longer and extended the MAF wiring to fit, at the same time I re-grounded the MAF to a spare hole in the chassis.
My setup needs no brackets because the part that goes down into the fenderwell is resting on the chassis.
Next on the agenda is to build a CAI with nice metal piping and bends...or some kind of cool air box, relocate the battery to the trunk, make a scoop from the corner of the bumper to bring air up through the fenderwell sort of ram cold air, or a mini-scoop on the end of the hood (ugly??) and have the filter under the hood yet heat-isolated from the engine.
It is a PITA to service the filter but the CAI sounds sick and makes the car faster. Whee!
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