I just got a '97 200sx se and my 1.6 doesn't look anything like his did in the picture. My iacv valve isn't there nor is the idle adjust screw. Is that a picture of a GA16DE? After a lengthy search i found a small bit about my GA16DE engine's idle screws, it was under a small black rubber piece on top of the throttle body. Am I at the right place?
What I need to know is has anyone else had a P0110 error code? My idle revs up and down about three times before leveling out at 1600 RPMs.
I will take any advice on cheap parts or work arounds.
Thanks
Hey,
I jus adjusted my timing and set it to 14 degrees. I'm hoping not get any knocking but to be sure I'm gonna try to ask knocking head phones from my friend as soon as possible.
Engine is pretty messed up on 3000-4000 rpm but after that engine sound changes and begins to sound like racing engine. I think this is mostly affect from completely rebuild exhaust system including 4-->1 header.
Yeah, true. There were not a single question this was just like a notification taht I done this kind of tuning. OK, I also want to keep this post up because it really has helped me and I'm sure it will help many others too!
-No-pain
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Nissan Almera (equal to Sentra) 1997 1.6 litres
Mods so far:
-Added disc brakes to rear
-All corners have got new springs and shock absorbers (monroe reflex)
-custom made 4-->1 exhaust manifold with 2" piping -Some cool kameleont painting
-Head work done. Porting, some valve job (lightening, cleaning and polishing). Intake- and exaustports on the head totally re-designed and grinded.
-Some gauges: oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, meter, lambda and external rev. meter with change ligth
-Free flow air-filter (calculated intake pipe lenght) with CAI.
-Lightened battery, moved to back
I inadvertently timed my car at 15 ATDC. I adjusted my timing based on the white mark that was already on my crank pulley...bad idea! Although I had no knocking at all and the car did perform pretty damn well, I lost 55 miles to a tank. I normally get 355 out of a tank, I got 300 this last time and my car wouldn't start it was so low. I think if adjusted with your IAC and reducing your idle screw a bit you can maintain this, mine sounded just fine. I just prefer my gas mileage...it's why I keep the car!
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I've now got a KA24DE and a GA16DE. Where's the TURBO?!
I just remembered that I have forgot to mention that when I set my timing to 14 degrees I began to get some knocking on 5500 and above rpms. So I got back to 10 degrees which really feels a bit lazier but is still safe. And I can't afford to use 98 oct gasoline so I have to stay on lower advances when using 95.
Any idea why I get knocking on so "low" rpms? basically engine is same as you guys have but still knocks earlier. I have tried to think how exhaust system could affect on that matter but I'm not totally clear on the matter yet. I have a small huntch that why it might do so but really don't know...
- No-Pain -
__________________
Nissan Almera (equal to Sentra) 1997 1.6 litres
Mods so far:
-Added disc brakes to rear
-All corners have got new springs and shock absorbers (monroe reflex)
-custom made 4-->1 exhaust manifold with 2" piping -Some cool kameleont painting
-Head work done. Porting, some valve job (lightening, cleaning and polishing). Intake- and exaustports on the head totally re-designed and grinded.
-Some gauges: oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, meter, lambda and external rev. meter with change ligth
-Free flow air-filter (calculated intake pipe lenght) with CAI.
-Lightened battery, moved to back
Something that makes timing easier is to use a dot of white paint at the desired advance. Clean the pulley with brake or carb cleaner, dry with a clean rag, then turn till the marks are visible. Use a dot or stripe of white paint at whatever timing advance you want to get, and a dot at the tip of the timing 'pointer' thingie. That way, you can see the marks line up and it takes a very little time to get things set right where you want them.
One thing to check- after you tighten the distributor bolts, re-check the timing, because it will very often move a little when the bolts are pulled snug.
My dad used to set the timing without a light when he didn't have one handy. He'd get close, and use a hand on the throttle at the carb to rev the engine quickly. When the engine would rev up as quickly as he could get it, he'd tighten the distributor. This was almost a necessity with the old Ford V8's, because the timing would change a lot when you adjusted the points, which also slipped a lot. (Anyone remember setting ignition points witha dwell meter?)
Just wanted to put in my .02 worth, and to comment on the excellent pictures and tutorial. Thanks.
Wow I never thought that there would be any enthusiasts that were into Nisan Sentra's! This is great! I am a big Pontiac fan. Keep up all the good tips I'm loving this!!
OK, I also want to keep this post up because it really has helped me and I'm sure it will help many others too! 
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