zxt

How come a 3K rpm shifting would give more gas mileage than a 2.5k rpm does?

StanzaBonanza

hate to kick an old thread, but is this the same in my KA24E? CW to advance? CCW to retard?

__________________

1970 Honda CB100
1978 Volvo 242DL, 80,000
1985 Honda Elite 250, 1,600
1990 Volvo 245DL, 280,000 R.I.P
1991 Nissan Stanza XE, 109,500

BigAlz1

I just got a '97 200sx se and my 1.6 doesn't look anything like his did in the picture. My iacv valve isn't there nor is the idle adjust screw. Is that a picture of a GA16DE? After a lengthy search i found a small bit about my GA16DE engine's idle screws, it was under a small black rubber piece on top of the throttle body. Am I at the right place?

What I need to know is has anyone else had a P0110 error code? My idle revs up and down about three times before leveling out at 1600 RPMs.

I will take any advice on cheap parts or work arounds.
Thanks

No-Pain

Hey,
I jus adjusted my timing and set it to 14 degrees. I'm hoping not get any knocking but to be sure I'm gonna try to ask knocking head phones from my friend as soon as possible.

Engine is pretty messed up on 3000-4000 rpm but after that engine sound changes and begins to sound like racing engine. I think this is mostly affect from completely rebuild exhaust system including 4-->1 header.

Yeah, true. There were not a single question this was just like a notification taht I done this kind of tuning. OK, I also want to keep this post up because it really has helped me and I'm sure it will help many others too!

-No-pain

__________________
Nissan Almera (equal to Sentra) 1997 1.6 litres
Mods so far:
-Added disc brakes to rear
-All corners have got new springs and shock absorbers (monroe reflex)
-custom made 4-->1 exhaust manifold with 2" piping -Some cool kameleont painting
-Head work done. Porting, some valve job (lightening, cleaning and polishing). Intake- and exaustports on the head totally re-designed and grinded.
-Some gauges: oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, meter, lambda and external rev. meter with change ligth
-Free flow air-filter (calculated intake pipe lenght) with CAI.
-Lightened battery, moved to back

- No-pain -

dragontoy22r

I inadvertently timed my car at 15 ATDC. I adjusted my timing based on the white mark that was already on my crank pulley...bad idea! Although I had no knocking at all and the car did perform pretty damn well, I lost 55 miles to a tank. I normally get 355 out of a tank, I got 300 this last time and my car wouldn't start it was so low. I think if adjusted with your IAC and reducing your idle screw a bit you can maintain this, mine sounded just fine. I just prefer my gas mileage...it's why I keep the car!

__________________
I've now got a KA24DE and a GA16DE. Where's the TURBO?!

Check out my CarDomain:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2726241

No-Pain

I just remembered that I have forgot to mention that when I set my timing to 14 degrees I began to get some knocking on 5500 and above rpms. So I got back to 10 degrees which really feels a bit lazier but is still safe. And I can't afford to use 98 oct gasoline so I have to stay on lower advances when using 95.

Any idea why I get knocking on so "low" rpms? basically engine is same as you guys have but still knocks earlier. I have tried to think how exhaust system could affect on that matter but I'm not totally clear on the matter yet. I have a small huntch that why it might do so but really don't know...

- No-Pain -

__________________
Nissan Almera (equal to Sentra) 1997 1.6 litres
Mods so far:
-Added disc brakes to rear
-All corners have got new springs and shock absorbers (monroe reflex)
-custom made 4-->1 exhaust manifold with 2" piping -Some cool kameleont painting
-Head work done. Porting, some valve job (lightening, cleaning and polishing). Intake- and exaustports on the head totally re-designed and grinded.
-Some gauges: oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, meter, lambda and external rev. meter with change ligth
-Free flow air-filter (calculated intake pipe lenght) with CAI.
-Lightened battery, moved to back

- No-pain -

jim frank

Something that makes timing easier is to use a dot of white paint at the desired advance. Clean the pulley with brake or carb cleaner, dry with a clean rag, then turn till the marks are visible. Use a dot or stripe of white paint at whatever timing advance you want to get, and a dot at the tip of the timing 'pointer' thingie. That way, you can see the marks line up and it takes a very little time to get things set right where you want them.

One thing to check- after you tighten the distributor bolts, re-check the timing, because it will very often move a little when the bolts are pulled snug.

My dad used to set the timing without a light when he didn't have one handy. He'd get close, and use a hand on the throttle at the carb to rev the engine quickly. When the engine would rev up as quickly as he could get it, he'd tighten the distributor. This was almost a necessity with the old Ford V8's, because the timing would change a lot when you adjusted the points, which also slipped a lot. (Anyone remember setting ignition points witha dwell meter?)

Just wanted to put in my .02 worth, and to comment on the excellent pictures and tutorial. Thanks.

Jim

schoust

Wow I never thought that there would be any enthusiasts that were into Nisan Sentra's! This is great! I am a big Pontiac fan. Keep up all the good tips I'm loving this!!

Machette

Im new to the tuning world and had a few questions i want to make my b-14 more fun to drive but need to keep the car running because its my daily driver. I was thinking abou advancing my timing is this going to decrease my engine life by a big percentage? In mind my engine has only 61K ish miles on it and is a automatic(yes i know auto suck but i needed a car).Would you suggest get full exhuast system first?Also alot of ppl put the UR pulleys on i heard this does decrease the life of the engine alot is this true?I dont want anything crazy just more fun.

jim frank

Advance the spark carefully, and listen for pinging or knocking. Those WILL hurt your engine, and performance too. Go for the easy things first. A KN air filter (or any low restriction filter), a cold air intake, new spark plugs (along with a complete tune up of course). Maybe a lower restriction muffler. If you want more fun, a little razzy sound will make the car feel like it's doing more.

All these mods can happen one at a time, fairly cheaply, and will make small increments of difference in performance.

Machette

i have a new intake (low restricted one) with 8.5mm wires and new plugs. i am currently seeing what a 2" exhaust with a twin loop muffler is going to cost. Are headers worth the trouble since i live in PA, i have to relocate the cat? And do the UR pulleys decrease engine life by alot like i heard?

jim frank

Headers will help, especially if you take the time to do some port matching on the exhaust. Relocating the cat isn't that big a deal, since you'll have to build a new exhaust from the headers anyway.

UR pulleys don't decrease the engine life as long as you don't chronically over rev the engine, and don't let it overheat from a water pump that is turning too slow.

Machette

Since im pretty new at this I do not know what porting matching the exhaust means could you please clarify?And do you mean chronically over reving the engine like up past 4k all the time and stuff or more near 5&6k.Does the water pump turn slower with the UR pulleys?or did you mean over reving all the time would cause over heating and such?

edgars91sentra

just one ? bro how do i set the idle if i dont hava a tach...
?

raycor178

guys, im a newbie here, my questions is, can a CONSULT II determine the degrees of the engine? instead of a timing gun?