Hey guys, I've been looking on the internet for awhile now and I can't find the answer to this odd issue.
I bought a 1991 Sentra off a guy for $100, the engine was siezed, rod number 4 broke and did a nice little number on the block. I replaced the engine with a nice low mileage one. I am nearly 100% sure that I've got all my wiring right, however, rather than the car cranking or doing anything it just sits there looking at me.
Heres the odd thing, the car will stay on with the idiots light on with the key out of the ignition. More odd, they lights will strobe in a regular manner just like the car is giving me codes to figure out the issue. But its not just the ECU codes, it flashing the dash lights and the dome lights in this same manner. In this case it was giving me a code 20, 16, and 3. I dont think that these reference regular ECU codes.
I thought that I may have a bum battery but I haven't gotten that far into trouble shooting as it got dark and colder. I am curious if anyone has seen this before.
This is the GA16DE with an automatic tranny. I think that all the relays might be stuck as the horn relay makes a rather fast clicking noise whenever the horn is pressed.
Any clues what the heck happened, as I have looked and there is nothing related to this.
first off, when you replaced the engine, what year was the engine from. You are sayin its a low mileage one, so i am assuming its from a newer b14 model. If its from a 95-99, then it would be an OBDII engine, which could be the reason for the fault. I dont know if its possible (as i haven't swapped an engine) to actually have an engine harness and Ecu from a OBDI car on an OBDII engine. So please try to add a bit more details. I would assume its someone wrong with the wiring harness or ecu. But ill wait to get more details to help
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Originally Posted by hendrix
I can't wait until Hurrican Jamal sweeps up the east coast and steals the wheels and stero out of your car
The engine was from an extremely low mileage 92 car. 32,000 miles on the clock. The engine harnesses are identicle. The only real difference to note between OBD I and OBD II are the distributors, other than the that the block and the heads are similar enough to play along.
All the issues were caused by a sticky ignition key lock mechanism. The car thought it was on even though the key was out. Took a lot of jiggling to get the one to work out. Now I just need a fuel pump and I'm set.