Has anyone got any info on doing the conversion? I found only 1 write up on it on the net. If so is there a noticeable increase in responsiveness or torque?
I have one here and am keen to put it on, but just want to hear some figure before i do.
Oh, I have have a Nissan Pulsar N15 Series 1. which is really the same as your 200sx.
yes,you can put a sr20de throttle body(but you have to bore a lit bit the intake manifold for a perfect fit) -into your ga16de. I have a friend that actualy do this "swap" all I can say is worth the money he gaing in throttle respònce as well in hps .
his is fully moded. header ,exaust ,port and polished intake manifold, cai ,cams etc.
hope this help you.
search the www.sentra.net there is some info.
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1998 Nissan Primera GX 10.1 cr
CHILE.
We tested the RC engineering big bore throttle body. This throttle body is 54mm vs. the tiny stock 50mm. The workmanship and attention to detail are superb. The throttle body casting is honed to tight tolerances so a good idle can be maintained and the throttle shaft is aerodynamically profiled with streamlined button head bolts that are staked, much like OEM.
FROM SENTRA.NET
On the Dyno, the larger throttle body did not help the peak power more than 1 hp but kept the power curve flat across the top for 400 rpm and gave 2 more hp past the peak from 6300 to 7300 rpm. Now the power curve is virtually flat from 6000 to 7300 rpm with no more than 4 hp deviation! This is big fat useable hp, not like the peaky hp that Hondas typically have. An equivalently modified D series motor usually has a slightly higher but pointy power curve. This motor has a big fat slope that is flat across the top. Guess which motor is faster, the one with more area under the curve!
FROM SENTRA.NET
but remember that we use the PRIMERA throttle body (60mm) is bigger than the RC tb I can not say to you the REAL hp ,but there is a noticiable diference .
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1998 Nissan Primera GX 10.1 cr
CHILE.
Done all the other mods. got the plenum bored out and polished so its now the same size as the sr20 throttle. My idle sensor is on my GA16 throotle body whereas the SR20 throttle doesnt have one. So I am going to relocate it onto the other end of the plenum. Hopefully it should all be donr by the end of the week.
We tested the RC engineering big bore throttle body. This throttle body is 54mm vs. the tiny stock 50mm. The workmanship and attention to detail are superb. The throttle body casting is honed to tight tolerances so a good idle can be maintained and the throttle shaft is aerodynamically profiled with streamlined button head bolts that are staked, much like OEM.
FROM SENTRA.NET
On the Dyno, the larger throttle body did not help the peak power more than 1 hp but kept the power curve flat across the top for 400 rpm and gave 2 more hp past the peak from 6300 to 7300 rpm. Now the power curve is virtually flat from 6000 to 7300 rpm with no more than 4 hp deviation! This is big fat useable hp, not like the peaky hp that Hondas typically have. An equivalently modified D series motor usually has a slightly higher but pointy power curve. This motor has a big fat slope that is flat across the top. Guess which motor is faster, the one with more area under the curve!
FROM SENTRA.NET
but remember that we use the PRIMERA throttle body (60mm) is bigger than the RC tb I can not say to you the REAL hp ,but there is a noticiable diference .
Not to be rude, but if you would have read the whole thread, you would know the answer to your question.
I've been thinking about this today. There are some questions floating around my head though.
It's not worth doing until you've done all the other mods... intake, exhaust, header....
And what after all these mods? Will it be a reasonable mod then? Will there be a noticable gain? I just re-read Kojima's article on that, but I need more info.
I could have sworn I read somewhere that this mod only works on OBD1 cars but this thread or sentra.net doesn't mention that. Does that even matter? If that were the case, I was planning on getting a 94 ECU and o2 sensor to be obd1 compliant.
Also, if I do get this done and I get the cams from jwt, will there be any problems with running a 94 ecu (if I would need that in the first place)?
I was speaking to the guy who does my emissions testing, and he said I shouldn't have a problem, as long as I make sure that the TPS on the new TB matches the one on my car....and that I'd be burning more gas (which I already knew).
Any inputs?
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Team Serious NYC
1.6L N/A.....3.0L Turbo no more.....
Location: Smack dab in da middle of the Pacific Ocean
Posts: 32
I e-mailed RC and they told me they don't make the throttle body any more. They also told me it won't do anything at low or mid revs and will only help in the highs if you go turbo. I do think that it will make the intake louder, because I did the mod to reduce the thickness of the butterfly axle, and the sound got smoother and deeper. Since I did the work, I am "convinced" that I got better response at low to mid revs.
Here is the lowdown. On a 91-93 intake, you can replace the stock unit with a 1995 SR20 TB. That has the correct linkage to make it work on the GA. It bolts right up. You cannot bolt the 1995 SR20 TB to a 95+ GA motor. The intake plenum is now different. I don't know if you can make it work. With the 91-93 GA motor, you can bolt the 1995 SR20 on with no trouble and plug inthe TPS sensor, it will work perfect. You will need to enlargen the plenum opening by using the gasket from the 95 SRTB as a template, bolt the gasket onto the manifold and trace the outline. Use a dremel or high speed cutting tool on the air drill. then smooth it out with sanding drums.
Performance. You will get a quick joint of response, there is no midrange pull effect, top end maybe 1HP due to flow, but remember that the cams are stock, they only pull the same amount of air into the engine and the injectors flow fuel only required of what is pulled through the MAF, which is the stock piece and small. I only did it to experiment with it and it was dirt cheap.
Chris 92 classic
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