OK, you've heard this before. Car won't start. Sounds easy, but... here's the details..
This has been a historical problem with this Nissan Sentra 1.6l efi, every winter.
The starter motor turns the engine. At first the car almost starts - some cylinders fire - , then the engine just turns.
I pulled plug 1 and have spark- also gas in the cylinder.. The tanks not empty either - over 1/4 tank.
I tried dry gas - no change.
Last year I installed 100,000 platimum plugs (Bosch). I pulled them (they loook good) and touched them up a bit just to make sure.
I changed the distributor cap, rotor and wires.
Also changed the air filter ( no other air restrictions either), the PCV valve (of course the V in PCV stands for valve, so PCV Valve is redundant, but this isn't English class) and the fuel filter.
Oh yeah - there's no potatoe in the tailpipe either.
Is there some known problem with cold-weather starting?
It's not the battery. If it were, the starter motor would not turn the engine over. Just to make sure, I use a separate die-hard that I keep charged, and run it in parallel for more cranking amps.
Is there some known problem with cold-weather starting?
Anyone have any ideas?? [/B]
**** Yes, the car is flooded. The problem is the Coolant Temp. sensor. It's in the intake manifold. Replace it. Then change the oil and filter too, because it will be fuel saturated, and is aggravating the problem further. If the plugs are not too fouled, you can start it by simply pulling the fuel pump fuse, and cranking over [with foot on the gas to allow air into the engine], until it starts. If not, then you'll have to change the plugs too.
i have the same problem. After my car has sat for over 6 hours when it is below 30 my car won't turn over. I have changed everything. Will the coolant temp sensor not make it start? Maybe i will go pick one up and try.
hmm..a couple of weeks ago my car had a similar problem. but i live in az and it doesnt get that cold. i went to start the car and nothing, nothing at all. i figured it was a dead battery and would jump it. i hook up the jumper wires to my friends jeep and try it out. i try to turn the car over and still nothing at all. took the voltmeter to the main fuse box in the engine compartment and it read 14.7 volts on the main power cable. i disconnected the jumper wires and pop the cell covers on the battery. i had one completely dry cell. i figured that it prevented or impeded the current from the jeeps battery to my car. i went and bought a new battery and it started right up.
Originally posted by blownb310 The problem is the Coolant Temp. sensor. It's in the intake manifold.
Where abouts is this, the chilton's manual gives a bad diagram of where it is. They say to drain the coolant so i figures it would be where coolant flows. The only thig i can think of is the sensor right below the VTC selenoid. Is that the one there?
The coolant temp sensor is just to the left of the #1 intake runner. It screws down into the top of the lower half of the intake manifold. If you know where the fuel pressure regulator is, look just behind that.
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Rob '93 SE-R
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before you replace it, do a resistance check on the old one in the cold weather. i dont have the specs, but if you test it and have the specs, then you wont have to buy a coolant sensor. Possible distributor problem also.
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90 LX Hatch and a bunch of Toyota trucks.
The car started after adding another couple gallons of higher octane gasoline. Here around Cleveland they switch to 10% to 20% ethanol to lower car emissions. 20% is 40 proof, by the way. I guess it doesn't get too cold in Japan. Or maybe there's a lot of Nissans stuck on top of Mount Fuji.....
I am having the exact same problem. I spoke to a Mechanic at the dealership in Omaha and he didn't say anything about the coolant temp sensor but he told me to do the trick with the fuel pump fuse. He also told me that the Base Idle may be set to low because that was also a very common problem with the sentras. He said that it only costs about $40 to hook it up and test/correct the problem.
I also change my plugs and wires at the same time. I'm just glad that its nothing serious.
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It could be as simple as old engine oil specially if you haven't change this in a while. If this happens in the winter, try running 5W30. When the oil is too thick from cold, oldness, or high weight > 10W30, you will have starting problems. You will also know this if the car has no problem starting when the car is warmed up. Just another suggestion.
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