Introduction
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So you decided to go ahead and change the automatic transmission filter (its actually a "screen") without looking on the forums first. Upon reinstalling the filter bolts you notice one very long bolt will not thread in. What is actually happening is there is a nut and washer on the other side of the valve body that this bolt threads in to.
Do not panic. Most of us (and I myself..) have done this before ourselves. Hell, I've read of even professional mechanics making this mistake. You have two options:
1) Toss that bolt in your toolbox and move on with your life. It is very unlikely that the nut and washer on top of the valve body will pose any serious future problems.
2)If you are one of those persons like to fix things right (like me), you are going to have to remove the valve body to do so.
If you picked option 1, go relax and drink a beer... if option 2.. see below.
Removing + Reinstalling the Valve Body
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I'm assuming you already have the the transmission pan off. The filter can be left on if on already.
Step 1:
Remove the tube connector and tubes. (
SEE ILLUSTRATION )
There are simply two bolts bolding the tube connector on. After those are out, simply slide the tube connector and tubes off of the lower valve body. Set these two bolts aside and label them "tube connector bolts".
Step 2:
Remove the OD Cancel solenoid and Torque Converter Clutch solenoid ("the two black clyinder things" right next to the tube connector. I believe one solenoid has 1 bolt and the other has two. Also undo all the bolts that hold the brackets securing the wiring for these solenoids. Set the 3 solenoid bolts aside and label them "solenoid bolts". Set the two bracket bolts aside labeled "Bracket bolts". Once the solenoid bolts are out, wiggle those little bastards out. Mine was in pretty snug so dont be afraid to use a little force. NOTE: These little buggars are heavy. I was not comfortable letting them dangle and applying stress to the wire. I placed a tall box (or similar object) under the car to rest them on. I suggest you do the same.
Step 3:
Remove the Valve body. (
SEE ILLUSTRATION )
Refer to the illustration and remove ONLY the bolts illustrated above. It doesn't really matter if you get them all mixed up, as you can easily measure them after and group them into groups of "A - 1.575 in" "B - 1.299 in" and "C -1.713 in" and reinstall them correctly via the illustration. I would suggest leaving the upper left "A" bolt and bottom right "C" bolt til' last. Support the valve body with your hand and carefully removing these two remaining bolts. The valve body is pretty heavy! DO NOT drop it!
You may have to wiggle it out after the bolts are off. There are two forks mated with two metal rods on the valve body. These simply deattachwhen you remove the valve body.
When you remove the valve body you will notice a spring will fall out. Be careful not to damage it.
*NOTE*The Nissan FSM urges to not lose the "manual valve and servo release accumulator spring
s. For me, a single spring "fell out" of the transmission upon valve body removal. Upon inspection, there are two "holes". One is deep/empty and the spring obviously belongs in that location. The other has a rubber grommet type thing covering the 'hole'. If I had to guess, I would assume the "hole" with the rubber piece on the end actually contains a spring but this rubber piece on the end prevents it from falling out. However, I found it odd that the other hole did not have this same rubber piece. I assume this is the way it is, as I have had no problems with my transmission after this episode.
STEP 4: Locate the nut/bolt on top of the valve body. Reinstall the filter onto the valve body outside the vehicle. Per that one bolt/nut, I installed it "upside down" where the nut/waster are on the BOTTOM of the valve body. Therefore, in the future, i can remove the filter without having to remove the valve body.
Mixed up the filter bolts?
Click Here for some help
*NOTE* It is IMPERATIVE that you do not get dirt in or on the valve body. In other words, don't decide to do this outside on a windy day.
STEP 5: Reinstall the valve body. Installation is reverse of removal (LOL). Make sure you put the spring back into its appropriate hole while inserting the valve body. Before you bolt it on make sure you align the metal rods with their appropriate forks ( Sorry for the laymans terms, I think one fork is the accelerator fork and don't remember the other one. I believe the correct term is "shaft" not rods but oh well
) Refer to above illustrations for correct bolt llocation. Do not forget to attach the solenoid wire brackets to their two respective bolts also. Do all bolts finger tight, then tighten to 61-78
INCH lbs. This equates to 6 or 7 FOOT lbs, which is not very tight! Reinstall the solenoids and tube connectors. These bolts are also 61-78
INCH lbs.
STEP 6: Reinstall the pan and gasket. FYI: My favorite technique (and also recommended by mechanics) of installing the gasket is as follows. Use 3m weatherstrip adhesive to "glue" the gasket to the pan and let it dry for a bit. (dont worry, the adhesive is easily removable if need be). Apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease (or equivalent) to the side of the gasket that contacts the pan. I suggest using brake cleaner to get the surfaces that mate with the gasket SQUEAKY clean!. I believe the pan bolts are also 61-78
INCH lbs
*WARNING* I AM IN NO WAY A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC. FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
I hope this helps all you guys who's simple filter change turned into this big project. Just keep a clean head and work slowly and carefully and you should be fine. If i made any mistakes, feel free to correct me. If others could comment on if one spring came out for them also, it would help me feel more at ease.
If the mods would feel my post worthy enough.. sticky plz! 
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