Location: B.S. from University of Connecticut in 2003
P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid error!
Please advise on how to proceed. I've read Raul's thread about how the plunger in the solenoid got stuck and all he had to do was to re-lube the piston. I've also found this website, but I am not sure where solenoid is physically located. Do I have to take the valve cover off?
The VTC solenoid valve is part of the Valve Timing Control System, found on all GA16DE engines. The purpose of the system is to achieve optimum valve timing, thus improving engine performance.
The system will vary the intake valve timing according to engine speed, and other inputs received from the coolant temperature and throttle position sensors. The ECM controls the position of the intake camshaft, by controlling the oil pressure to the intake camshaft pulley hub. When the ECM energizes the solenoid, oil pressure is supplied to the pulley hub, changing the position of the hub, thereby advancing the intake valve timing.
1 Remove the VTC valve from the vehicle.
2 Using a fused jumper wire, apply battery voltage to terminal 1, and ground to terminal 2.
3 If the valve is functioning correctly, the plunger shaft in the valve should be extended.
4 If the plunger is not extended, replace the VTC solenoid.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1 Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the VTC valve.
2 Using a suitable wrench, remove the VTC from the cylinder head.
1 Install the VTC in to the cylinder head, by first hand tightening, then using a wrench.
2 Plug the wire harness connector into the VTC valve.
Fig. 1: VTC solenoid testing-GA16DE engine
Fig. 2: Valve timing control system component identification and operation
Wes is correct on the location; Chronoti is correct on his assessment: easy to remove.
The plunger (in most cases, I suppose) should not need lubrication. Strictly speaking, all it does is redirect oil; so it is basically constantly bathed in oil. Why mine got stuck in one position, who knows.
When you pull it off, the holes at the innermost tip (the tip that goes inside the valve cover) should be exposed, i.e., open. You may be able to see a small spring in there that pushes the plunger up. When you energize the unit, the plunger is pushed out and the end holes are blocked (compressing the little spring); deenergizing allows the spring to push the plunger back up.
My plunger (miniature piston) was stuck in the "energized" positon, the spring could not return it. The little rod (that is moved by the solenoid) that actually moves the plunger was loose inside the body. Once I released the plunger, the spring was able to do its job from then on (after cleaning in lubing) -- no problems since, code gone.
Unless you have a problem with it (and you will get a code) there is no need to pull this out and lube it; I don't think it requires maintenance. Also, be advised, you are supposed to replace a couple of O rings when you pull this out -- I didn't, but apparently got away with it. But I wouldn't mess with it if you have no problems. "Never trouble trouble, till trouble troubles you!"
Ever since a mechanic replaced my cyl head, I've gotten a p1110 code. The solinoid looks like it's screwed in too tight to the head. Could that make a difference? Is alignment needed? I read on another site that it does, but it was unclear.
I have a Neo Engine in my Nissan Cefiro 2000 and the fault light has come on the dash. They told me it was the VTC switch that was faulty. The Nissan dealer said there are two of these. Cost was over the moon. Can they be removed and fixed?...sounds like it from these posts. Thanks
I'm in the same boat. I have a 1997 Sentra GXE, 1.6, 4-sp A/T giving error code P1110. I've tried leaving the battery disconnected, but I have yet to see the engine light go off at all. I wanted to try the suggestions given, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. The original question of if have to remove the valve cover doesn't appear to be directly answered.
From these pictures, what am I looking for? I think that tube in the middle going into the top of the valve cover is the PVC valve, but the Haynes manual labels two different things as this.
Okay, I bought a crappy scanned copy of a repair manual online with an illustration. It appears the few inch long hexagonal piece visible in the second picture is labeled "Intake valve timing control solenoid valve" and the dark red and black plastic bit on the end is labeled "Intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector".
The repair manual also lists "Engine oil (The oil is deteriorated)" and "Intake air system" as possible causes. Tomorrow I'll try changing my oil, and then unscrewing the solenoid to take a look at it. I'll also need to find a fused jumper somewhere.
I managed to remove the solenoid and used a fused jumper wire to connect it to the battery. The piston did extend with voltage hooked up. The whole thing was already covered in oil, but I did wipe it off and poor more oil on it to relube it. I also rubbed some of the grime off of the outside, and there was a blue paint dot on the edge that was up when it was attached to the engine. I scratched a line on it to the engine to verify I tightened it back up to the correct spot.
I left the battery disconnected from the car the whole time, but the engine light has not gone off this whole time.
Well, apparently disconnecting the battery does nothing for the error codes. I looked up in my Haynes manual how to reset the codes, found the computer, moved a screw back and forth a few times, and it is reset now. No more engine light, but I haven't driven it around at all to see if it will come back under stress.
Also wanted to mention that the engine light gave me the error code 8-long, 5-fast. I couldn't find that one anywhere, but I assume it's the equivalent of P1110.
Last edited by Atamido; Aug 21st, 2010 at 05:42 PM.
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