While removing the ball joint/lower control arm from the steering knuckle a little earlier, i noticed the ball joint dust boot was cracked. I was removing the control arm as specified in my haynes manual to allow drive axle removal.
Anyhow, my haynes manual directs that the ball joint is non-serviceable and the whole control arm must be replaced. However, no auto parts stores sell the control arm, but just the ball joint itself! So i'm like WTF!? I'm assuming the ball-joint itself is just replaceable? What exactly must one do to remove the old one and install a new one. Any special tools needed?
Thanks in advance.. i did a quick search and turned up nothing.
Ok, yea i mean the lower control arm ball joint. So i just need to rent a ball joint press from autozone and use it to press old one out and new one in?
Ok, yea i mean the lower control arm ball joint. So i just need to rent a ball joint press from autozone and use it to press old one out and new one in?
Yes sir. And try to pick up the moog part if at all possible. Out of curiosity, you were removing the control arm to remove the axles? That is weird as that is not required on the B14.
Yes sir. And try to pick up the moog part if at all possible. Out of curiosity, you were removing the control arm to remove the axles? That is weird as that is not required on the B14.
Yes i was, as my haynes manual specified this is the proper way to do it... Another member told me to remove the tie rod end and strut from the steering knuckle instead. I snapped two 18mm sockets on the strut to hub bolts.... and sears was closed when i did this, so no free replacement at the time.
The information above was in reference to the passengers side ball joint. However, on the driver's side, the lower control arm ball joint WILL NOT "pop out" from the steering knuckle! It is very frustrating and I have worked on it for a long time now.. with no success. I'm doing as my haynes manual directs, working at it with a hammer and ball joint pickle fork.
Is there any special "trick" to this.. my arm is tired out from working at it.. gonna re-attempt it in the morning.
The information above was in reference to the passengers side ball joint. However, on the driver's side, the lower control arm ball joint WILL NOT "pop out" from the steering knuckle! It is very frustrating and I have worked on it for a long time now.. with no success. I'm doing as my haynes manual directs, working at it with a hammer and ball joint pickle fork.
Is there any special "trick" to this.. my arm is tired out from working at it.. gonna re-attempt it in the morning.
There are ball joint remover tools. I have one that goes around the control arm and a lever presses on the threaded part. I use a nut on the threads to help stop damage. Tighten the bolt on the remover and the hit the arm or joint separator. If it really tight then heat the arm with torch..
You might be able to borrow one from autozone.
BTW the pickle fork will damage the ball joint boot, so try and be careful using this tool.
Yes i was, as my haynes manual specified this is the proper way to do it... Another member told me to remove the tie rod end and strut from the steering knuckle instead. I snapped two 18mm sockets on the strut to hub bolts.... and sears was closed when i did this, so no free replacement at the time.
hmm, I have a 1990 sentra, and my strut bolts (the ones that connect the steering knuckle to the strut) are 17mm. Are yours really 18mm? Weird, I don't have a 18mm bolt anywhere on my car.
Anyway, the pickle fork will work fine with a big heavy hammer. Anyone you know have a nice lead hammer? A few good whacks (as if you were at the carnival) should separate the LCA. As for the dust boot, it could be cut off and replaced by something from Energy Suspension. I swear I've seen replacement ball joint dust boots.
hmm, I have a 1990 sentra, and my strut bolts (the ones that connect the steering knuckle to the strut) are 17mm. Are yours really 18mm? Weird, I don't have a 18mm bolt anywhere on my car.
Anyway, the pickle fork will work fine with a big heavy hammer. Anyone you know have a nice lead hammer? A few good whacks (as if you were at the carnival) should separate the LCA. As for the dust boot, it could be cut off and replaced by something from Energy Suspension. I swear I've seen replacement ball joint dust boots.
Good catch, i didn't notice the 18 mm and I agree, none on any japanese car I have had..., unless these have been replaced with A/F and then 17 mm is too tight on a 11/16......
I suggest you measure your bolts / nuts with a micrometer.
The information above was in reference to the passengers side ball joint. However, on the driver's side, the lower control arm ball joint WILL NOT "pop out" from the steering knuckle! It is very frustrating and I have worked on it for a long time now.. with no success. I'm doing as my haynes manual directs, working at it with a hammer and ball joint pickle fork.
Is there any special "trick" to this.. my arm is tired out from working at it.. gonna re-attempt it in the morning.
Use a 2 jaw gear puller. put the jaws on the bottom lip of the spindle, and the center on the ball joint stud, and it will pop right out.
__________________ 1991 Sentra SE - Auto to Manual swap, 15" Rota Subzero's, 205/50 Kuhmo 712's, Tsuru headlight conversion, SE-R front and rear disc brakes, SE-R front and rear swaybars, SE-R throttle body, SE-R rear inner taillights, HS CAI and Header, H&R springs, Koni shortened struts, ES Hyperflex kit, B&M Short Shifter, Autometer gauges.
Thanks for the all the info guys. My bad, the strut bolts were 17mm.
Regarding everyone using special pullers on the ball joint.. i dont see how you can use them. The CV axle is right above the ball joint stud and would prevent any type of specialty tool. The only way I see it happening is with a pickle fork. I'll just pick up a larger hammer, as I am currently using a "dead blow" mallet, not a large metal one. I will be replacing the ball joints anyhow, so i am not too overly concerned about boot damage.
I've never seen just ball joint boot replacements either...
Finally got that biatch out! All it took was a bigger hammer
Now i just gotta figure out how to use this ball-joint press from autozone.. never used a press before.. and the instructions are missing from it
All you needed was more momentum from a bigger hammer!
how much does that ball joint press from autozone cost per day? I brought my LCAs over to my local machine shop (in Campbell) and they popped out and pressed in some ball joints for 20 bones.
All you needed was more momentum from a bigger hammer!
how much does that ball joint press from autozone cost per day? I brought my LCAs over to my local machine shop (in Campbell) and they popped out and pressed in some ball joints for 20 bones.
You put a Deposit of $100 down. Keep it for as long as you like (i think the limit is like 45 days or something) and when you return it, you get 100% of your money back. So its "free" in a sense.
Being a loaner tool, sometimes you will get unlucky. Mine was missing the instructions and believe an adapter for my size ball joint.. but i made do, although it was more difficult.
I just replaced the ball joint on my car, lemme tell you, a bigger hammer didn't work for me. Pickle fork was useless, Whacked the shit out of it with a hammer, nothing, the sucker didn't budge, so here's what I did:
Had the new ball joint I got at autozone. Took the control arm off (removing the control arm is 100000% easier than removing the ball joint). I drove around for about half an hour till I found a goodyear who was willing to press it in. Took him 5 minutes, he didn't feel like entering the info into the computer so I got it done for free. Even if they do charge you, you'll prolly end up handing him $10-15 for the work.
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