LuisC

Hi there. I just found this site in search of a possible fix to my Truck.

I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab. It is a V6 3.3L, not the supercharge. The truck has about 200500 miles on it. No problems before and I have taken good care of it. I have since brand new.

Driving home from work, the car stalled and would not turn back on again. I noticed that a couple of days ago the car service engine soon light had come on, but ignore it for some reason thinking that it was not a big deal.

The truck stalled yesterday on my way home and this is so far what I have done.

1 - Checked all fuses, Ok.
2 - Car will cranks up but will not start.
3 - Unhooked the fuel returned line to test is fuel was an issue and fuel was no an issue when cranking the car.
4 - Removed the distributor cap and it looked clean inside.
5 - Removed one of the spark plug cables and inserted a screw driver to it. Cranked the car but no sparks.
6 - Replaced the Distributor rotor and still wont start up.

It seems that there is no electricity in coming out of the cables to the spark plugs. What should I do next?

nissantruck

is the distributer turning when you crank it over? take off your cap and check. if this is working, check you coil.

__________________
03 Frontier Crew Supercharged!
95 SE KC V6 (sold)
87 SE KC V6 (201k retired)
88 SE KC V6 (98k sold)
86 KC (327k threw rod)
85 KC (retired, frame rust 225k)

LuisC

Sorry for the stupid question, but where is the coil? How do I check it?

pulsar86

The coil is attached to the other end of the lead that is the central one on the distributor. It is probably best to take the coil to an auto electrician to check the resistance readings are ok. Mark the wires to the coil with tape so that you don't mix them up when replacing them. You could check your self to see if the coil is giving spark to the distributor by earthing the coil lead the same as you check the spark to the sparkplugs. Just be careful not to touch the lead with bare hands while you have someone crank the engine. Use insulated pliers to hold.

__________________
Aussie 1986 PULSAR 23 years one owner, still going strong!

jdgrotte

The check engine light came on...
Even though the engine is dead, you'll still be able to pull codes from it using a portable scanner, if you can get your hands on one. May or may not help troubleshoot the problem.
And based on your troubleshooting techniques (which aren't bad)...keep going backwards until you get to the ECU. I'd shoot for the obvious, bad crank sensor, bad coil, bad ignition module. Problem is, about the only to check each of those things is to replace them. There might be a way to check each of those things other than replacement, but I don't own this vehicle, so couldn't tell ya otherwise...

Faja

while you might be on the right track with your trouble-shooting as per jdgrotte, I think the first thing to do is scan the code and move on from there as the problem is "most probably" related to the CEL.

LuisC

So, the rotor in the distributor was not moving when trying to start the car. It ended up being the Timing Belt. I took it to my mechanic and he confirmed.

I did take up readings with a computer and got 5 errors.

P0171 = System to Lean (Blank 1)
P0340 = Camshaft Position sensor circuit Malfunction
P1126 = ? Never was able to find out what this one was about.
P0340 = Same as second one above.
P0325 = Knock Sensor 1 Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single sensor)

So, I am hoping that this fix make my car last a while. I am thinking that I should start looking for a new vehicle soon.

azrocketman

Are you checking for bent valves or damaged pistons? The VG33 is an interference engine meaning the valves may contact the pistons when the timing belt breaks. You may be looking at an expensive repair.

Did you ever change the timing belt before it broke? It requires changing every 105,000 miles.

Steve