New Ball joints for 98-03 Frontiers now available!!

himilefrontier · Aug 29th, 2007, 03:51 AM

Well, my 98 Frontier needs new upper ball joints-BAD! Unfortunately, all that was available were upper control arm assemblies from Nissan for alot of money. Well, now there is an option and I figured I'd share it with the group TRW now makes the upper balljoints for the 2wd Frontier pickups under part number 104364 and cost me around $40 each at Advance Auto Parts. They look like the right ones at a glance, I will post my results after I install them.

joefrontier · Aug 29th, 2007, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by himilefrontier

Well, my 98 Frontier needs new upper ball joints-BAD! Unfortunately, all that was available were upper control arm assemblies from Nissan for alot of money. Well, now there is an option and I figured I'd share it with the group TRW now makes the upper balljoints for the 2wd Frontier pickups under part number 104364 and cost me around $40 each at Advance Auto Parts. They look like the right ones at a glance, I will post my results after I install them.

Did you try Moog, Mcray Norris, Napa? Just wondering because Moog is top dog for ball joints . I had an S10 the required ball joints and used Mcray Norris. S10s are known for ball joint problems so I spent sometime doing research.

himilefrontier · Aug 29th, 2007, 02:03 PM

I agree that Moog typically makes a better part, but I have tried everywhere and no one had them. These I guess just became available, so I got them.I can literally feel the joint pop in and out when I jump it over bumps, so I really need them.

joefrontier · Aug 29th, 2007, 06:58 PM

If yours are poping in and out you should not drive on them. One snap and you would become a loaded weapon on the road.

Let us all know how the process goes getting them out. My S10 was pain. You basically had to remove all components to get to the ball joints.

himilefrontier · Aug 31st, 2007, 02:04 AM

Installed the driver's side today as it was the bad one. The passenger's side is still tight, so I may hold off on it. Anyhow, it took about 40 minutes to do the whole job. Basically, you'll need a small mouth pickle fork ( tie rod separator), a ball joint press ( borrowed form Autozone with $99 deposit), a 22mm combination wrench, large snap ring pliers and a BFH ( Big Fucking Hammer). Remove the wheel. place the jack under the lower control arm, but leave 1/2 in clearance. Now, remove the cotter pin. using the 22mm, loosen, but DO NOT REMOVE the retaining nut on the ball joint stud. Put the pickle fork in between the spindle and the upper arm. Smack it hard with the hammer and it will eventually pop loose. now, jack the Lower arm upwards with the hydraulic jack to remove tension from the nut and make it easier to remove. Remove the nut. now, lower the lack and let the spindle fall out of the shaft. Now, remove the snap ring.Next, use the ball joint press to remove the joint by placing the large cup around the top of the ball joint, and setting it up to press it up and out. Then you are going to want to set it up with the cup on the bottom and the forcing screw acting on the top of the joint with the top plate there to spread the load and press it in. You want to push it in squarely and not cocked as it won't go in right. Once it is pressed in flat, take the tool off and install the snap ring. Now you can install the nut and cotter pin and you're done.

mmiller2002 · Sep 3rd, 2007, 04:43 PM

Should I replace the lower ball joints on both sides even though only one's boot is cracked?

Thanks

himilefrontier · Sep 8th, 2007, 09:00 PM

If they are both bad, yes. The boot does not mean the joint is bad, just that it will wear out more quickly. The joint is bad if: You jack up the truck so the wheel is off the ground and you can place a large lever if some sort under the wheel. Now, pry up on it and see if the wheel moves up without the lower arm moving. You will feel it move easily if the joint is bad. The torsion bar will resist you moving it much more than a bad joint, so if it is good it likely won't move. The top joint is bad if you can pull the top of the wheel towards you while the car is resting on it's wheels That's how I found my faulty upper.

mmiller2002 · Sep 13th, 2007, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by himilefrontier

If they are both bad, yes. The boot does not mean the joint is bad, just that it will wear out more quickly. The joint is bad if: You jack up the truck so the wheel is off the ground and you can place a large lever if some sort under the wheel. Now, pry up on it and see if the wheel moves up without the lower arm moving. You will feel it move easily if the joint is bad. The torsion bar will resist you moving it much more than a bad joint, so if it is good it likely won't move. The top joint is bad if you can pull the top of the wheel towards you while the car is resting on it's wheels That's how I found my faulty upper.

Thanks. Is the procedure similar for lower ball joint replacement as itr was for upper? To me, it looks like I need to remove the brake caliper. Are lower ball joints available as a separate item? A mechanic I called said that Nissan only sells the lower control arm for $300+.

Thanks again.

mmiller2002 · Sep 20th, 2007, 07:42 AM

Does anyone know if lower ball joints are replaceable and available?

Thanks

mmiller2002 · Mar 18th, 2008, 11:05 AM

Anything new on this? Are we still screwed and have to buy whole lower control arms for ~$350 if the lower ball joint is bad?

I need an alignment and my joint(s) are bad.

Thanks

mmiller2002 · Mar 18th, 2008, 03:21 PM

I decided to search more since its been a while. What do you think of this? Is it for real?

Lower:
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Moog Chassis Prod. Ball Joint
Part Number: K80591
For Your Vehicle
Vehicle: 2000 NISSAN FRONTIER
Engine: V6 3.3 Liter FI
Ball Joint: Front Suspension; Lower; Two Wheel Drive (4x2); 2 Required Per Vehicle

Upper:
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Part No. 104364 TRW Ball Joint
Frt Susp; Upper; 2WD Or 4WD; 2 Required
Warranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL
Ships in 1 day
$34.94

Part No. FA2234 McQuay-Norris Ball Joint
Ball Joint: Front; Upper; 2 Per Car
Warranty: Limited Lifetime*
Ships in 3 days
$32.99

Part No. K90663 Moog Chassis Prod. Control Arm W/Ball Joint
Ball Joint: Front Suspension; Upper; Four Wheel Drive (4x4); 2 Required Per Vehicle
Warranty: Limited 1 Year*
Ships in 3 days
$66.99

Part No. K90663 Moog Chassis Prod. Control Arm W/Ball Joint
Ball Joint: Front Suspension; Upper; Two Wheel Drive (4x2); 2 Required Per Vehicle
Warranty: Limited 1 Year*
Ships in 3 days
$66.99