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Old Jul 1st, 2007, 03:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
Cusser
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Update: got back yesterday to replace that dead 2.5 week-old battery. Autozone swapped it out for free without me having to go back a second time (yah !!!). I had already theorized that the aftermarket CD player my daughter had installed (six months after I purchased truck in 2004, before which I never had any battery issue) was a possible cause, and since the CD part stopped working, that I'd re-install the cassette stereo that it had when I got it. Yes, thanks to all for the input, I did measure for a parasitic draw after installing the new battery yesterday. There was about 150 mA draw with the 10-amp radio fuse in place, much less with it out. After installing the old cassette deck, the draw was still low, much lower than the aftermarket CD player. Luckily, the installer had used an adapter so the plugs that originally fit into the cassette player were still there, and just plugged in. I had put the foam insulation around the battery and had replaced the defective negative cable previously, because I had to try something. Time will tell here...
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Old Jul 1st, 2007, 10:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
golfer
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You might want to consider removing the foam around the battery , it may contribute to overheating the battery.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2007, 11:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
azrocketman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer
You might want to consider removing the foam around the battery , it may contribute to overheating the battery.
In Arizona it's generally advisable to insulate the battery from underhood temperatures. Remember that out ambient air temperatures are 110 to 120 degrees F during the summer; I would not be surprised if underhood temperatures are 160 to 170 degrees F. The battery does not generate much internal heat that you have to allow the battery to radiate heat.

Steve
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Old Jul 2nd, 2007, 06:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
golfer
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I was thinking more in the lines of air flow regardless what the temps are but if that's he norm in AZ ...there ya go.
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Old Nov 24th, 2007, 12:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
Cusser
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FIXED: eats batteries

Update: a few months ago I noticed the Frontier ignition switch would sometimes be "on" partway before even the accessory position. I couldn't locate a replacement switch in stock (Phoenix) so I instead installed a $5 30-amp toggle switch in the dash to interrupt all the positive current before it got to the switch. That seemed to help; yesterday, while taking off the door panels to install new speakers, with no key in the cylinder but that toggle switch in the "on" or driving after about an hour I started hearing a relay under the dash go on/off every few seconds, and then the instrument panel lights came on all by themselves. When I flipped the toggle off, all that stopped immediately. So, apparently, that's what the problem had been all along - phantom, possessed, faulty ignition switch electrical. Passing this on as others may have a similar problem in the future.
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