Actually terd jumped into the thread with what I assumed was a new question to the same problem. Hopefully he got some help from the responses.
In that case. I have only seen a complete assembly with these types of bearings. I have not seen the rubber itself sold as an individual part. Most likely it will consist of the metal loop with the rubber and bearing all mounted together and you bolt the whole assembly to the crossmember.
since this is an old thread, ill just post what i know since it may actually help someone...
im not sure what the main difference is between a frontier and a hardbody, but a good buddy of mine had a problem with his d/s on his lifted hardbody so he had it replaced with a 1 piece driveshaft with no more carrier bearing. the driveshaft shop, i believe it was Precision Driveshaft said thats a common fix/upgrade on the nissans. my buddy said his truck has never felt so solid. all vibrations that he used to have are now gone. theres also less parts to break. maybe this could help you guys...
Been driving on a destroyed center support bearing for over six months
For what it is worth, if you were wondering how long you can drive on a support bearing like the one depicted in the beginning of the thread, I have been driving on mine for over six months now. The rubber is completely separated and it clunks loudly when hitting bumps. On the highway it makes no appreciable noise. When funds allow, I'll repair it. So no need to panic if this component fails on you. One can limp along for quite a while apparently.
I replaced mine early to avoid problems. Autozone.com shipped it to me for about $70, if I remember right. I replaced it using a bench vise, hammer, and an impact driver. Overall, pretty easy driveway fix in a couple of hours tops.
I had a 1993 D21 2.4L 4x4 5-speed. I believe I bought the $39.99 one and it fit fine and cured the 35-40mph vibration I was having due to a deteriorated rubber bearing isolator. Go to AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year. I didn't see that part when I looked for my 1999 Frontier, but they look the same as far as I can tell.
I found a local drive shaft place in the Springs that replaced my bearing for a mere $150, with the part being $96. A vast improvement from Nissan's part prices.
I think mines on its way out too...i lowered the truck and now whenever i take off there's a slight studder. I have to check it still but i hope i dont get this problem...it looks pretty nasty.
Carrier Bearing - tips and tricks on replacement...
You definitely want to replace bad carrier bearings before you end up having to replace worn out U-Joints (from excessive binding and flexing) and before you have to replace transmission or rear-end bearings. That can be very, very painful and expensive.
I've had to replace 2 of these things. 1 was on a 1987 Hardbody 4x4 and the other on a 92 pathfinder (2wd).
To replace them they are a ROYAL PAIN in the backside. They end up being pressed on because of the significant amount of torque requirement to bolt down the yolk.
Here is what I learned in the process. If you can do it yourself, then do it! Also, when you separate the drive line, because it is a 2 peice, MAKE SURE YOU MARK IT! The splines MUST go back into the same location or the drive shaft may not be properly balanced and you could end up with a lot of vibration at higher road speeds (above 45 - 50 mph).
Also, when replacing them, mine had 2 or 3 slots in them (it's been several years ago). Go to HomeDepot and buy some 100% pure SILICONE caulking. Put a good squirt of silicone in each of the holes but don't fill the entire void. Let it cure for at least 48 hours. As a result they will last MUCH longer.
However, the flexibility in the stock rubber carrier helps to give it more of a smooth, car-like ride but the carrier bearing itself works well to help distribute some of the stresses and loads on a truck. Especially a 4x4.
If you put the silicone in and let it cure properly it will not be as flexible, but it will be much more durable. As long as your drive shaft is well-balanced it will help with any off roading or heavy duty hauling.
Good luck if you take it on yourself. I never had a dealer or garage do mine, but if you did you can STILL use the silicone to support it but you will not be able to drive it for 2 or 3 days.
To do that, just unbolt the carrier bearing from the mount and it will easily rotate. Put the silicone in the holes and then let it sit UNMOUNTED for 2 -3 days to cure. Then mount it back in. You want it unmounted to take the weight / load off the rubber carrier while the silicone is curing. That way it cures evenly without a "squat" position in it.
Those are my suggestions besed on my experience. Use them at your own risk and good luck!
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