Is there an O-Ring (washer) on the '05 Oil Plug that needs to be replaced each ...

AGR · Dec 30th, 2005, 09:36 AM

... time the oil is changed? I'm getting my oil changed today, and I wasn't sure. I remember my Honda a few years back had one of those. And; each time I bought an oil filter at the Honda dealer, they gave me a replacement O-ring (washer).

Thanks!

Ooooooooo... I bet they mention it in the manual......

............ checking...........

Yes! It states to change the washer each time the oil is changed.

05 NISMO 4X4 · Dec 30th, 2005, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGR

... time the oil is changed? I'm getting my oil changed today, and I wasn't sure. I remember my Honda a few years back had one of those. And; each time I bought an oil filter at the Honda dealer, they gave me a replacement O-ring (washer).

Thanks!

Ooooooooo... I bet they mention it in the manual......

............ checking...........

Yes! It states to change the washer each time the oil is changed.

Check with your Dealership's parts department, I went to purchase some and the counter lady told me they were overstocked and handed me a bag of 10! I figure that should hold me for a pretty good while!

msubullyfan · Dec 30th, 2005, 10:07 AM

It's not a typical disc-shaped washer like I'm used to seeing on other cars. It's a thin copper bellows-style washer.

Snafu · Dec 30th, 2005, 10:27 AM

Sounds like a compression seal (similar to what you see on a new spark plug). I have a soub and they say to replace teh seal every time you change the oil/filter. Bugger is they don't sell the seal and filter together. PITA cheapskates - LOL

If I am at the parts counter I usually ask for a dozen of the washers. Always good to have a few around just in case.

mitchell35758 · Dec 30th, 2005, 01:59 PM

Crush washer? I only change it once every 15,000 miles since I run mobile one full syn and only change it every 15,000. ( I do replace the filter every 3,000)

BakedCookies · Dec 30th, 2005, 04:35 PM

crush washer for the win! i got a bag of 10 from courtesyparts.com

AGR · Dec 31st, 2005, 01:37 PM

I changed with MOBIL 1 5w30. And; the washer was okay to reuse. I made sure they verified that. And; this Mom & Pop shop (actually; Father & Son), take care of me. They keep washers of this nature on hand for such applications.

Cost: $15.00 Labor. I brought the oil from Wal-Mart (I use the OEM Nissan Filter). It's about $5.50 per quart now.

I will change the Oil and Filter every 7,500 miles (as I do on my Wife's Protege ES).

Reverendbiker · Dec 31st, 2005, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGR

I changed with MOBIL 1 5w30. And; the washer was okay to reuse. I made sure they verified that. And; this Mom & Pop shop (actually; Father & Son), take care of me. They keep washers of this nature on hand for such applications.

Cost: $15.00 Labor. I brought the oil from Wal-Mart (I use the OEM Nissan Filter). It's about $5.50 per quart now.

I will change the Oil and Filter every 7,500 miles (as I do on my Wife's Protege ES).

Nissan uses this particular type of washer (crush-type) because it offers a good seal with minimal torque. The biggest single mistake that do-it-yourselfers (and incompetent mechanics) make in an oil change is to over-tighten the drain plug; you won't believe how many oil pans have to be replaced or repaired with oversized plugs because the threads have been stripped. Though the used washer might look fine, if you re-use it you defeat its original purpose. Buy a 10-pack of crush washers and use one at each oil change. Torque the plug to factory specs and you'll save yourself plenty of grief in the future.

AGR · Dec 31st, 2005, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reverendbiker

Though the used washer might look fine, if you re-use it you defeat its original purpose. Buy a 10-pack of crush washers and use one at each oil change. Torque the plug to factory specs and you'll save yourself plenty of grief in the future.

Thanks Jack! I will pick up a bag of those from the dealer prior to my next oil change when I get the filter.

I remember when I used to have my Civic, the Honda dealer would actually scotch tape a new washer to the filter when I came in to pick a new one up.

MrFancypants · Jan 5th, 2006, 08:03 PM

You dont need to replace the crush washer. Ive never had one leak and have never replaced one.

- Greg -

mitchell35758 · Jan 6th, 2006, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrFancypants

You dont need to replace the crush washer. Ive never had one leak and have never replaced one.

- Greg -

I have never had that problem either before I knew what the hell that copper ring was. But for as cheap as they are, I say why not. It know probablity of me overtorquing the drain plug may be low, but I would rather not risk it now and have to pay to fix/replace the oil pan. I do agree with what you are saying though, but again they are cheap so I don't care.

I think they made crush washers for those idiot mechanics at the oil lube places that like to tighten the drain plug so tight that it screws our oil pans up...lol...

Reverendbiker · Jan 6th, 2006, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrFancypants

You dont need to replace the crush washer. Ive never had one leak and have never replaced one.

- Greg -

Bad advice. Very bad advice. The crush washer is there to provide a good seal without excessive torque on the drain bolt, and if it's re-used you might as well not have a washer at all.

MrFancypants · Jan 6th, 2006, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reverendbiker

Bad advice. Very bad advice. The crush washer is there to provide a good seal without excessive torque on the drain bolt, and if it's re-used you might as well not have a washer at all.

Alright... Im assuming you attach every bolt and screw with a torque wrench per the FSM as well. On some things this is vital -- on most it is not.

You dont even need to change out the crush washers every time when working on high pressure connections like brake lines and hydraulic clutches. They dont leak, and you dont have to overtighten them. The oil drain is not under pressure and does not require a ridiculously tight seal.

You use a copper washer because the head of the bolt is not necessarily flat. Copper is soft enough that it can be crushed multiple times and still make a perfectly good seal.

- Greg -

scuba91ta · Jan 6th, 2006, 07:14 PM

greg - your forgetting to take into account that the washed provide preload to the plug further preventing it from backing out when torqued down correctly... if the spec torque on it is as low as it seems it is, then having bolts back out is probably a problem, and they kill two birds with one stone...

personally, it's retarded to do something half assed, especially when doing it right will cost you hardly anything more...

Reverendbiker · Jan 7th, 2006, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scuba91ta

greg - your forgetting to take into account that the washed provide preload to the plug further preventing it from backing out when torqued down correctly... if the spec torque on it is as low as it seems it is, then having bolts back out is probably a problem, and they kill two birds with one stone...

personally, it's retarded to do something half assed, especially when doing it right will cost you hardly anything more...

Absolutely correct. My point is that the crush washer serves a very real function; when you re-use an old one you have to use more torque to get a good seal, and owners often over-tighten the bolt and strip out the pan. I'm amazed that someone would spend $20k+ on a truck and try to save fifty cents by not using a washer that serves a purpose.