Just about 4 weeks now and I'm loving my Frontier. I was also going
into withdrawal. Was it me or was this forum off line for a while?
I'm still amazed at the power this truck has. I've been driving mainly turbo-charged cars for the past 20 years and I have to say the V6 engines sure do put out. I'm still taking it easy since I barely have 1K miles but when I step into it, its there.
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Wendy
Drive Fast, Take Chances
2006 LE, Storm Gray w/Desert....and loving it!
I havent been able to get on for about 2 days. Luckily there are 2 other Frontier forums I read plus a couple aquarium boards as well so I dont miss it as much when one goes down for a bit.
I've had my truck for almost 4 months now, I'll turn 7k on the way home tomorrow and the power is definitely nice. Kills the '00 Grand Cherokee V8 my wife just got rid of and the '02 WRX she had before that (yeah, I know the WRX is faster but I'm wondering how close it would be without the infamous 4k clutch slip on the WRX since they're pretty wimpy until you hit 3k).
Glad you like your truck, I know I'd never go back to my '97 D21.
it sure is. i found nissanforum.com and although many of you are there too, it just wasnt the same.
i too love my truck. almost seven weeks with it and ive probably washed it seven times and waxed twice. turned 3000 miles os the way to the office this morning so i will be getting some synthetic into it this week.
it sure is. i found nissanforum.com and although many of you are there too, it just wasnt the same.
i too love my truck. almost seven weeks with it and ive probably washed it seven times and waxed twice. turned 3000 miles os the way to the office this morning so i will be getting some synthetic into it this week.
switching to a synthetic 5w30 raised idle oil pressure for me, much nicer than the dino 5w30 dip at operating temp
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05 4X4 Nismo KC 6-Speed Mods: PXNI AAI-NIS Audio input box, XTR7CK Sirius Sat Radio (dash antenna & custom radio mount), iPod integration, lug/spare/gas locks, Silverstar 9007ST Headlights, Full Synthetic Swap (engine/diffs/tranny/xfer case), OEM Rubber floormats, Flowmaster exhaust, K&N 63 Series Intake w/ an AEM dryflow filter
How much more expensive is synthetic? Also, could you guys explain to me the advantages of using it? Thanks!
I've been using synthetic in my Audi since the first oil change. Since the manufacturer recommended service interval is 10,000 miles, I felt synthetic was a much better option since they don't break down at the higher temperatures, they remain more viscous at lower temperatures, they lubricate the engine better and provide longer intervals between oil changes because they don't break down as quickly as mineral oils.
I usually buy Mobil 1 by the case at BJ's Warehouse for appx. $24. I always brought my own oil for them to use and hope I can do the same at the Nissan dealer.
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Wendy
Drive Fast, Take Chances
2006 LE, Storm Gray w/Desert....and loving it!
I usually buy Mobil 1 by the case at BJ's Warehouse for appx. $24. I always brought my own oil for them to use and hope I can do the same at the Nissan dealer.
I'm curious, what's the case-count BJ's sells? I bought the 5-Qt container of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart plus a 1-Qt bottle for a total of about $25.
its all in what the oil is made from... Group I - III oils are dino stuff and theres a bunch of crap to go over with them.... III is called synthetic but it's not truly synthetic...
Quote:
Originally Posted by from the API
Group I — Mineral, non-synthetic, base oil with few, if any, additives. This type of oil is suitable for light lubricating needs and rust protection and is not to be used in an engine.
Group II — Mineral oils with quality additive packages. Most of the conventional engine oils are Group II.
Group III — Hydrogenated (hydroisomerized) synthetic compounds, commonly referred to as hydrowaxes or hydrocracked oil. This is the lowest cost of synthetic engine oils. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil.
Group IV — Synthetic oils made from mineral oil and monomolecular oil called polyalpholefin or POA. Mobil 1 is an example of a Group IV synthetic oil.
Group V — Non-mineral sources such as alcohol from corn called diesters or polyolesters. Red Line synthetic oil is an example of a Group V oil.
Group IV oils are PAO based (Poly-Alpha-Olefin). This stuff is made from a chemical called Olefin, and they attach molecules to them as needed. This way you start from clean, pure chemicals, and you can make virtually every molecule the same, thus having every molecule behave how you design it. Oils like Amsoil and Mobil 1 are basically Group IV oils... Some mobil 1 is said to be blended with Group V oil (see below) but then some say it's not... aah the internet!
(Some people, and their analysis of used oil backs them up, have shown that modern Group III and Group III+ aka advanced dino juice approach and meet the performance of Group IV oils... at a fraction of the cost. YMMV)
Then there is my favorite. Group V oil. Redline is really the only ALL group V oil out there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by some guy
nother type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Your vegetarian girlfriend should love that. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.
redline oil's all group V synthetic is expensive for a reason... redline also contains the a ton of moly, which is great for your engine by attaching to the metal and helping to "armor" in case of metal to metal contact. there is a zinc vs moly debate and as you can tell i am way on the moly side (better lube than zinc and it wont screw over your emissions system like zinc does... but its $$$$)
whew
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05 4X4 Nismo KC 6-Speed Mods: PXNI AAI-NIS Audio input box, XTR7CK Sirius Sat Radio (dash antenna & custom radio mount), iPod integration, lug/spare/gas locks, Silverstar 9007ST Headlights, Full Synthetic Swap (engine/diffs/tranny/xfer case), OEM Rubber floormats, Flowmaster exhaust, K&N 63 Series Intake w/ an AEM dryflow filter
switching to a synthetic 5w30 raised idle oil pressure for me, much nicer than the dino 5w30 dip at operating temp
I noticed the same thing when I switched, but thought it was just my imagination! Glad to hear someone else noticed this too! I guess I'm not going nuts after all!
__________________ Paul... :-) 2005 Aztec Red NISMO LE 4X4 KC, Sliding bed Extender, Body Side Molding, Side Steps, GENTEK 50 Autodimming Mirror, License Plate Back-up Sensor, OEM Rubber Floor Mats, eXtang Trifecta Tonneau, OEM Nissan iPod Gateway, OEM Hood Protector, AirAid Intake, PowerAid TBS, and JBA Exhaust! I'm done... :-)Get Cash Rebates on your On-Line Purchases!
'Loving mine, too! 'Still under 2,000 miles (about 1,925 ) I used Mobil 1 in my MazdaSpeed, and in my Wife's Protege ES. That's what will go in my V6 Frontier, as well. It's about $5.00 a quart now at Wal-Mart.
(and; I will change it every 7,500 miles)
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- Greg
2007 Red Brawn Frontier LE CC V6 auto. * JVC KW-XG700 HU * aFe Stage II Cold Air Intake * Cherry Bomb Pro 1 into 2 custom exhaust * Passport 9500i * Truxedo TruXport Tonneau * MOBIL 1 (first oil change, of course)
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