V band adaptors for t3 style turbos and downpipe pics
as the subject says...we now make adaptors for those who want to run 3" dp's and v-bands. all the info can be found at http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=320312
let me know what u guys think
Re: V band adaptors for t3 style turbos and downpipe pics
160? Shit I can do it myself a lot cheaper than that. probably 1/3 the price. But it is a good Idea.
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Originally posted by javierb14 as the subject says...we now make adaptors for those who want to run 3" dp's and v-bands. all the info can be found at http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=320312
let me know what u guys think
Re: V band adaptors for t3 style turbos and downpipe pics
Quote:
Originally posted by javierb14 as the subject says...we now make adaptors for those who want to run 3" dp's and v-bands. all the info can be found at http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=320312
let me know what u guys think
I'd get it but the price seems kinda steep. I could get my own made for way less than that.
Originally posted by javierb14 if u can TIG up the same part of equal quality for less go ahead, but they arent the easiest piece to make.
You can get the T3 and V=Band flanges at Turbonetics or ITS and get them TIGed up for like Mike says, about 1/3 of the cost.
On the other hand yours are stainless, but why is the price so high? You can get the flanges Lazer cut for pretty cheap, then get the stainless V-band flange from a HD Truck supplier.
If you made them like this, you could sell them for under $100 bucks and move them fast while still keeping a good margin. Still its a very nice piece.
Originally posted by javierb14 if u can TIG up the same part of equal quality for less go ahead, but they arent the easiest piece to make.
It's nice to have your own machine and the experience to back it.
I don't like to knock someone elses work, but that is hardley what I would call quality. From the look of that picture, it is definitely not welded with heliarc (TIG). That is a MIG job, you can tell by the fat bead. From the looks of it, he ran a little on the hot side and a little fast. These thing's are not hard to make by any means, definitely not worth 160 IMHO. Again I say that was not done for quality in mind, more like mass production.
The flange on the downpipe side seems to be welded with TIG, but it's really hard to tell in that picture, It looks more like he ran a bead on the inside of the flange instead of the outside.
Hey I'm new here, so go easy on me. You, on the other hand, seem like an old hand, so i will not be so easy on you.
Just fyi, i have worked on jaime farrer's car since the beginning, jason hunt's 9.8 second *Street* CRX and gary gardella's methanol civic. I have been building turbo 4 cyl cars for a while now and am by no means new to this.
As for your having "your own machine and the experience to back it. " id love to see some of your work. Im sick of self proclaimed internet fabricators who have CNC mills in their kitchens and a lathe or two in their living rooms. Half of them still live with their mom anyway. We, too, have our own machines, and the experience to back it. The fastest hondas in the country are running our setups.
Now to the welding. We use a miller syncrowave TIG, yes tig not mig and its not heliarc anymore, no one uses helium, get into this century and say it with me A-R-G-O-N. We dont own a mig welder. We dont mig weld anything here and if you consider a 1/8" wide nicely colored and perfectly scalloped weld to be a hot, fat mig weld, you need to take some welding classes.
now to the price. Go out, get prices on the 2 v bands (stainless), the v band clamp, the flange, and put the cutting grinding and welding time into it, *before* opening your mouth
I mean this, go find the parts, docutment what you pay for them, and go make the part. Record exactly how long it takes to make the part and then come back to us. Thanks
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Last edited by FFgeoff : Nov 2nd, 2002 at 01:16 AM.
As for your having "your own machine and the experience to back it. " id love to see some of your work. Im sick of self proclaimed internet fabricators who have CNC mills in their kitchens and a lathe or two in their living rooms. Half of them still live with their mom anyway. We, too, have our own machines, and the experience to back it. The fastest hondas in the country are running our setups.
Im not interested in the fastest hondas using your equipment, I am however interested in how much rework you have to do when your products break.
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Now to the welding. We use a miller syncrowave TIG, yes tig not mig and its not heliarc anymore, no one uses helium, get into this century and say it with me A-R-G-O-N.
Nobody uses helium anymore? Oh how wrong you are. . I come from a generation of fabricators from my father to his fater and so on, so I usually refer to TIG as heliarc., but if you want to get technical TIG is an acranym for Tungston Inert Gas, the correct technical term is GTAW.
As for Helium, helium allows for better wetting action, than argon does, Argon is very dry. Straight argon, in conjuction with voltage has the tendicy to creat dry socketing effect between the weld puddle and the parent metal. So by adding helium it helps reduce the dry socketing affect due to its heat input, and better wetting action. Running pure helium, running straight DC polarity works well with copper, and you can use pure helium running straight dc on aluminum in order to produce high quality xray welds. Hence running pure helium (heliarc welding),
You can run helium with MIG trimix which is mostly helium. Not to mention helium is a great purge. The only draw back to using helium is the cost factor, and if they don't purge the bottles properly it is easily contaminated, so you must have pure helium.
If you don't use it maybe you should. We also purge the pipes when we weld our manifolds so the inner bead looks close to the outside. You don't have that crusty rock drop through effect.
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We dont own a mig welder. We dont mig weld anything here and if you consider a 1/8" wide nicely colored and perfectly scalloped weld to be a hot, fat mig weld, you need to take some welding classes.
First off it is running too hot, and no I don't need to go back to school. You call that nicely colored? dude get your glasses cause that looks like amature hour. There is no need for a beed that wide with that set up, you say that is 1/8th in. Looks more like 3/16 1/2 inch. You are adding too much filler rod to the mix my friend, if that was TIG as you so claim. Speaking of filler rod, what type of filler rod did you use concidering the fact you combined disimular metals.
We will get into your choice of welding equipment at a later time.
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now to the price. Go out, get prices on the 2 v bands (stainless), the v band clamp, the flange, and put the cutting grinding and welding time into it, *before* opening your mouth
I mean this, go find the parts, docutment what you pay for them, and go make the part. Record exactly how long it takes to make the part and then come back to us. Thanks
havent had a part break yet =). not one single failure.
i just measured that weld with a pair of calipers, its 142 thousandths wide, and its still nicely colored. The parts are welded inside and out, the digital camera may not have portrayed the part correctly in low resolution, but thats the truth.
im well aware of the uses of pure helium, but we are welding steel here, not copper, not aluminum. 309 rod is used.
We could have welded it on an OTC, but the syncrowave works just fine.
Now i asked for pics of your car, not your friends?
here is a closeup of a charge pipe weld on my car. all of my TIG welds are of this quality.
heres a link to an extreme closeup of the same bead, large high res pic http://www.public.asu.edu/~ramirez0/...ld_closeup.jpg
I know you asked for pictures of my car, I'm assuming it's to see the work. So I showed you our work. As far as the 8.99 collector, Just FYI that is the same style collector recommended by Mr Corky Bell himself. It seems to me by my post that you are getting a little offensive. It seems you want to play my daddy is better than yours. Okay after going to that site you sent me, that is not even the same collector on our manifold. That collector is mild steel. Our collectors are stainless 4 into one design. I'd like to see the collector you use FF.
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Originally posted by FFgeoff oh one more thing, why would you use a 8.99$ collector?
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