After lots of work and about 500 trips to the various auto parts stores, my turbo kit is finally installed!!
I'm running the HS kit with the 240sx MAF and disco potato turbo. Other relavent mods I have are the UR pulley, lightened flywheel, 2" cat-back exhaust and a JWT stage 1 pressure plate with stock disc (which seems to be doing ok for now).
Everything is running pretty good, except for a few issues. The main issue I'm having is the car is idling rough, it runs fine otherwise above 1,500 RPM or so. Any ideas what might be causing this?
Currently I do not have an EGR tube on the car (HS sent me the wrong part) but instead a ghetto EGR plug(the plug I ordered from Courtesy Nissan didn't fit). I plan on fixing this when I get the replacement tube, but could this be causing the problem?
I am able to reach full boost fairly easily, which looks to be set at 12 PSI assuming my boost gauge is correct. I hit full boost around 4,500 RPM, but I thought this might come earlier since the dp turbo spools up quicker. Does this sound like an issue?, if so might it be caused by a vaccuum leak?
I plan on building a pressure tester as described here http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=49376 to help determine if I do have any leaks. Has anyone here ever built one of this ... any suggestions?
Oh and one other problem I'm having, traction! In first and second it's hard to get traction at full boost. I'm currently running 205 width tires, but was thinking of putting 215s on the front. The front tires are almost bald but the back ones are still ok (I know, I know not rotating frequently enough) I think since the width difference isn't that big, it wouldn't look stupid.. but who knows.
I'd like to thank everyone on the boards who helped me out with this and everyone who came before me, none of this would have been possible without Mike Young and the rest of NPM, and of course HS who have been trying their best to make sure everything fits right, especially with the parts they had to redesign for the DP turbo.
My future plans are turbo timer, boost controller (anyone selling one for cheap?), 3" cat-back exhaust, and stronger clutch.
The boost gauge I have also reads vacuum, and reads about -19 when I'm at idle. I believe this is about right, do you have any suggestions on how to use this to better find a leak?
is it steady at 19? if so then that should be enough evidence that it isn't a leak in the intake... see if there is a leak between the manifold and turbo, that can cause the same symptoms... you can tell when there is soot between the manifold and turbo flange...
also make sure to readjust your timing to stock 10 deg and adjust the idle speed after that.
Yeah it's steady at 19, I guess that's one less thing to worry about. I'll check the connection between the turbo and manifold to make sure it's tight. The idle is set about right, but one stupid question... where exactly do I put the clamp for the signal for the tachomter?
Well my car has a tach too, but I was going to hook up a tach directly to get a more accurate reading (it's kinda hard to tell exactly with the tachometer gauge, that's why I said the idle is set about right).
Yeah I have an O2 sensor behind the cat, my car is the federal model.
My car actually isn't the 1st car with the HS kit with the DP turbo, it's the second. The first guy had his kit installed by HS and I think he posted once to the Project 200SX thread.
About the MAF, I think they are the same between the B13 and B14, but I don't know for sure. I do know that the S14 and B14 MAF have the same connector, but you need to have your ECU reprogrammed to account for the different MAF.
Looks good. Piping is DEF different than the T28 setup. As for spoolup I believe it should spool more quickly. Most HS T28 kits are making full boost at 4500 rpm's. My car is making it at 4200 I believe this is because of the coatings and Extrude Honed Exhaust housing.
A bigger exhaust will make it a different car! Post more pics. when you have a chance, looks good.
Yea the piping is very different, there is very little room for the turbo to IC piping, it's very cramped. You should see what my splash guards looks like. The IC to TB piping runs through the hole you would normally use for a CAI.
I look forward to installing a bigger exhaust and a boost controller. I also might dyno it on 'stock' boost just to see the numbers. I was amazed to see that the WG is set at 12 PSI... how well would that work on the stock MAF?
Yea the piping is very different, there is very little room for the turbo to IC piping, it's very cramped. You should see what my splash guards looks like. The IC to TB piping runs through the hole you would normally use for a CAI.
I look forward to installing a bigger exhaust and a boost controller. I also might dyno it on 'stock' boost just to see the numbers. I was amazed to see that the WG is set at 12 PSI... how well would that work on the stock MAF?
What other pics would you like to see?
You are EASILY maxxing out the stock MAF. I didn;t think the stock WG would adjust to 12 PSI, if so that's different. I chose to set my T28 WG low so that when I installed the controller I could turn it off to run as little boost as possible.
I would like to see pics of how the piping runs as well as the DP and IC pics. Anything is cool.
I'm using the 240SX MAF so I shouldn't be maxxing that out yet, if the WG is set at 12 PSI I don't think it's an option. I'm going to check the timing and the connection between the turbo and manifold later today, so I'll try and take some more pics then.
You could very easily be maxing out the MAF even at 12psi. This turbo could easily flow more than the T28 in our cars. Only way to tell is to test the voltage on the MAF at 12psi.
My GA16DET Setup
Linear Mode
