ok...so now that im ready to make my oil return for my ga16, i need some help...i heard the other day from my friend that has a gs-t (i know, i know) that it would be easier to keep my oil pan ON, then drain the oil, drill the hole, and weld (or tap) the fitting. THEN, simply flush the oil pan with a cheap ass oil to get out the metal shavings that were cause by the drilling...is this a risky idea? it certainly seems alot easier than taking off the oil pan, and risking a leak when putting it back on. tell me what you think...
chimmike already said it was a bad idea, but what does everyone else think?
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95 200sx se. sr20de, gt28r, bb manifold, forge fmic, greddy bov and bc, tial 38mm, walbro 255, apexi tt, 3" exhaust with magnaflow, 3" downpipe, jgy clutch flywheel and fuel rail, msd 50#'s, cobra maf, jwt ecu and s4's, nismo fpr, autometer, nissport adaptors, fal pushers, ur pulley, m/t 22x8x15 et drags.
oh, and when isaid to flush it with a cheap oil, i would have the oil drain plug IN, so it the oil hits every part of the oil pan, preventing any shavings from being missed....
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95 200sx se. sr20de, gt28r, bb manifold, forge fmic, greddy bov and bc, tial 38mm, walbro 255, apexi tt, 3" exhaust with magnaflow, 3" downpipe, jgy clutch flywheel and fuel rail, msd 50#'s, cobra maf, jwt ecu and s4's, nismo fpr, autometer, nissport adaptors, fal pushers, ur pulley, m/t 22x8x15 et drags.
I would take the pan off, because you never know if the pickup will suck up any shards of metal. It would be a lot easier fixing a oil leak rather than a screwed up bearing on the turbo. Plus, it might make it easier to put the oil return fitting on.
I would take the pan off, because you never know if the pickup will suck up any shards of metal. It would be a lot easier fixing a oil leak rather than a screwed up bearing on the turbo. Plus, it might make it easier to put the oil return fitting on.
hell, a metal shard might eff up the oil pump completely=toasted engine!
im hoping to get this all done in like 3-4 days because i wanna take my time and do it right. i hope taking off and putting back on this oil pan doenst take up a magority of that time
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95 200sx se. sr20de, gt28r, bb manifold, forge fmic, greddy bov and bc, tial 38mm, walbro 255, apexi tt, 3" exhaust with magnaflow, 3" downpipe, jgy clutch flywheel and fuel rail, msd 50#'s, cobra maf, jwt ecu and s4's, nismo fpr, autometer, nissport adaptors, fal pushers, ur pulley, m/t 22x8x15 et drags.
please please please do not attempt to drill and weld the oil pan on the car... not only do you risk metal chips in your pan ... you run the risk of fire. besides there is a lot of baffleing inside the pan , it is best you take the pan off so you can see what you are drilling into. Dropping the oild pan isnt that big of a deal when you consider all that is involved in installing a turbo. If your in a hurry you could always buy a used oil pan from a junk yard and have the fitting weled, when you are ready to drop the pan you can just swap pans. thats what I did. I have pictures of my pan if someone can host them.
-dave
Damn tommy, I've freakin told you this, and you listen to your GS-T friend before me? the kid bought the car, doesn't mean he knows about installing turbos!
I'ma stop tellin you shit if you keep comin on here and asking and finding out I'm right.
I was going to ask you why you help him so much when he won't listen to you to begin with, Mike. Let him learn on his own if he thinks to doubt everything you say. Let him drill with the oil pan on. Some people need to learn things the hard way I guess.
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"The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist".
yo HARRIS, i already said in the first post that mike told me, but i wanted to get OTHERS OPINIONS...damn...whatever mike says is right all the time huh? damn...lets channe the name to chimmikeforums.com, cause hes the only one who's opinions matter, right?
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95 200sx se. sr20de, gt28r, bb manifold, forge fmic, greddy bov and bc, tial 38mm, walbro 255, apexi tt, 3" exhaust with magnaflow, 3" downpipe, jgy clutch flywheel and fuel rail, msd 50#'s, cobra maf, jwt ecu and s4's, nismo fpr, autometer, nissport adaptors, fal pushers, ur pulley, m/t 22x8x15 et drags.
ok...so now that im ready to make my oil return for my ga16, i need some help...i heard the other day from my friend that has a gs-t (i know, i know) that it would be easier to keep my oil pan ON, then drain the oil, drill the hole, and weld (or tap) the fitting. THEN, simply flush the oil pan with a cheap ass oil to get out the metal shavings that were cause by the drilling...is this a risky idea? it certainly seems alot easier than taking off the oil pan, and risking a leak when putting it back on. tell me what you think...
chimmike already said it was a bad idea, but what does everyone else think?
Bad Idea the drain hole is not quite at the bottom of the pan, about 1/4" of dirty oil and chips stays in the apn.
Mike
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