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Forced Induction & Nitrous Oxide Turbocharger, supercharger, and nitrous oxide information

       
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 02:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
DRYB0Y
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GA turbo questions...

I'm serious about doing this, and I know I "shouldnt be serious about it if i'm not willing to shell out big bucks." anyway these questions are mainly aimed towards James and Wes and Javier...

I have been thinking about getting a manifold made at a local muffler shop... If I did that would it be easier for them to fabricate it using an existing header or would it be easier for them to do it from scratch? which manifold would be best, Ive seen log style, but they look like they flow like crap...

would it be easier to get a junkyard turbo/intercooler if I'm only looking for 4-6 lbs of boost? My theory is if I get the manifold and junkyard turbo/intercooler, then the hardest / most expensive part is done... I would only have to tap the oilpan and run the rest of the piping correct? I would eventually get and ECU, but the car will run (correct me if im wrong) without it, it just wont be at its top potential... basically I am *hoping* to have a little boost (4-6 psi) by February, is this really a goal you think I can aim for being a college student with around $1500.

I am not into name brands nor am I into having "top of the line" stuff, I just want a little pep out of my car. I know it wont be cheap, and things will go wrong but I want to give this a try.

Thanks in advance -James
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 07:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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another question, with a setup thats going for a low amount of boost, what would you upgrade (injectors, MAF, BOV etc) and what other turbo equipment would you want (AFC, FPR etc) sorry for the 2 long posts with so many questions.
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 10:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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for the manifold- if you really want to save all the money you can then I suggest you use the header and make a log style manifold. you will not have a problem with clearance that way. if you make a manifold then the equal length manifolds are more or less the best style of manifold. the log manifold are the best but lots of people use them and make a lot of power so I wouldn't be too concerned.

for the turbo- you can get a good used t25 or t28 from the ppl on sr20forum.com just make sure its in good condition.

if money is really a concern, don't run above 1-3 psi... which is hard to control because its so low, because I don't think the injectors are capable of handling any more. especially without an ecu. if you can at least get an AFC. other than that... I would suggest you get the JWT ecu... and upgrade the injectors as well... you can save money in the kit but it will cost you when your engine goes kaput!
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 11:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Let the king of ghetto boost come up with something:
1. Manifold from JGS Tools 150 +welding w/ TD05 flange = 300
2. 1st gen eclipse turbo/bpv/smic Probably 100-150
3.Custom turbo back piping/exhaust w/ muffler =475 (thats lowest quote I've ever seen)
4. IC/BPV Piping =200
5. 370 cc injectors + fuel pump =200
6. JWT ECU 550 or SAFC if you're bold 220
7. Misc Fitting, oil lines, silicone couples =100-150
If you can weld and do all your own work, you can pull it in around 1500. I think it can be done cheaper, but this is the minimum I would go at
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 07:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree with Vodka but I would do it a bit different.

JGS tools manifold use a T2 flange. $150
Used BB T25 $200-$300
Used BB IC $50-$75
MISC piping to make IC piping $100
Muffler shop DP $150
370 CC injectors $150
JWT ecu $550
DSM BOV $75 give or take
Couplers, clamps, oil and water lines $200
Various cheap sources

Roughly $1650 give or take $200

Exhaust helps a TON, don't forget that.

This is with doing the welding yourself. The ONLY thing you MUST weld is the manifold, DP, and BOV flange, the rest of the ic piping can be cut and connected with couplers.

I personally woul not go any less than this. Again this only works if you can find parts this cheap.
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Couple of things on that:

Are you sure you shouldn't go with a full-turbo back, it seems like it would help a lot. Keep the EGTs and backpressure down while increasing power. Also, I dunno if you can use a stock fp. Maybe you can at low PSI, but I do believe that its a much better move to get an upgraded fp. Its only 80 bucks or so on ebay anyways, so its not too big of a cost.

P.S. I forgot about the emanage. Its a quite useful tuning tool if you have the time and resources, as you can address both fuel & timing issues (I dunno if you can address load though). Some 240sx board and sr20forum guys swear by it.
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Old Nov 12th, 2003, 08:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vodKA
Couple of things on that:

Are you sure you shouldn't go with a full-turbo back, it seems like it would help a lot. Keep the EGTs and backpressure down while increasing power. Also, I dunno if you can use a stock fp. Maybe you can at low PSI, but I do believe that its a much better move to get an upgraded fp. Its only 80 bucks or so on ebay anyways, so its not too big of a cost.

P.S. I forgot about the emanage. Its a quite useful tuning tool if you have the time and resources, as you can address both fuel & timing issues (I dunno if you can address load though). Some 240sx board and sr20forum guys swear by it.
Well the downpipe comes off the turbo, and bolt's to the cat, the exhaust shoudl be cat back. I think that should be done.

Stock fuel pump is fine. Mike young's car is using the stock fuel pump and stock regulator
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Old Nov 13th, 2003, 02:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks guys, I'm gonna start looking around for turbo parts and such, I'll let you know how everything turns out in the end. I already have a 2.5" cat back exhaust, which I know is too big for a stock GA, but for a GA +4 lbs of boost, I think that shouldnt be too small for such low boost levels... thanks again.
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Old Nov 14th, 2003, 06:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Your exhaust should be fine, good luck man!
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Old Nov 20th, 2003, 12:30 AM   #10 (permalink)
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turbo manifold...


I know it looks exotic, but the price is right... I'm gettin it!
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Old Nov 20th, 2003, 12:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Damn, those are some ugly ugly welds on that manifold
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Old Nov 20th, 2003, 10:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Probably the reason why the price is so good... hey, as long as it gets the job done, right?
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Old Nov 20th, 2003, 11:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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you'll have to make a custom dp for that thing... i would just save money and do it right the first time... it may be more expensive up front but it will last longer and you won't have to spend big bucks making a custom dp for it...
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Old Nov 20th, 2003, 01:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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... wouldnt making a custom DP be cheaper and easier then making a custom manifold?
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Old Nov 20th, 2003, 01:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DryBoy
... wouldnt making a custom DP be cheaper and easier then making a custom manifold?

i'm not suggesting either...
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