Instructions to turbo the GA16DE

James · Jun 17th, 2003, 12:42 PM

Turbo Installation

*It is advisable to put in the JWT ECU, if you’re using the JWT ECU, and 370cc injectors in before the rest of the turbo installation and driving around a day or two to allow the ECU to adjust. Do not install anything else at the same time as the turbo, i.e. cams, clutches, turbo timers, boost gauges… etc etc.

*There are a ton of little gaskets and nuts that need to be purchased, those will be up to you to find out what you need! If you cannot figure out one step of the installation or if one item seems to challenging, you shouldn’t be touching your car in the first place!!! A FSM will greatly help you during the install.

Day One

1. Check timing and idle to make sure it is spot on to OEM specs.
2. Unplug battery, Drain Oil, Drain Coolant, depressurize fuel system.
3. Lift car on Jack stands
4. Disconnect EGR.
5. Remove Radiator fans and cover radiator with a piece of cardboard to avoid damage.
6. Remove exhaust manifold. (Keep O2 sensor)
7. Remove throttle body and upper intake plenum. (Note: if possible do not remove the throttle body from the intake plenum during removal. This will save you from having to buy a gasket.)
8. Remove MAF sensor.
9. Remove Oil pan.
10. Drill oil pan for oil return. (or replace with predrilled oil pan)
11. Replace oil pan and allow curing overnight.
12. Remove exhaust.
13. Flip lower right radiator hose end over end.
14. Remove fuel rail (if you haven’t done so previous already) and remove stock injectors.
15. Install the 370cc injectors (with NEW O-RINGS!).
16. Install fuel rail.
17. Reconnect hoses and lines for fuel.
18. Reinstall upper intake plenum/throttle body.

James · Jun 17th, 2003, 12:44 PM

Day Two

1. Get under car and remove the oil filter.
2. There is a brace that supports the intake manifold right above the oil filter that must be removed, you will not need it anymore.
3. Assemble the oil feed ‘T’s’ so that it looks like this: (Teflon Tape)

(You’ll have to angle the T’s to find the perfect angle so the oil filter and the two sensors, if you’re using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, can clear the installation)

4. Feed the stainless steel line through so the other end sits from above the turbo. (note: there is a straight side and a 90 degree bend side to the line, make sure the 90 bend is at the end of the feed and the straight side is connecting to the turbo) (Note: stainless steel lines, if allowed to move back and forth, will eat through a lot of things! Make sure to take proper precautions!)
5. Bolt together the turbo and turbo manifold.
6. Bolt the two together onto the engine block but do not tighten the nuts yet.
7. Get under the car and bolt the downpipe to the turbo, do not let the other end hang freely.
8. Connect the supplied EGR pipe to the downpipe and connect the other end to the EGR valve.
9. Tighten the nuts to the manifold in FSM specified recommendations.
10. Tighten the bolts to the downpipe.
11. Slowly tighten the EGR pipe, alternate one between ends to make sure the pipe seats in fully.
12. Connect the oil feed and oil drain lines onto turbo, use Teflon tape.
13. Connect the forward O2 sensor.
14. Bolt exhaust section to end of downpipe, remembering the rear O2 sensor.
15. Connect intake piping, along with BOV, to the turbo and intercooler.
16. Reinstall radiator fans, they’re very hard to get back into place.
17. T the wastegate line into a source in the intake manifold before the throttle body.
18. T the blow off/recirculating valve into a vacuum source after the throttle body (note: there is emissions equipment connected to the intake plumbing that is not boost friendly, in particular the EGR system, you must buy check valves to install inline in these vacuum lines to make sure they only see vacuum and never boost.)
19. Install the air intake and MAF sensor; make sure the air filter is tightened down.
20. Refill oil and coolant, check for leaks.
21. Connect all electrical connections unplugged during installation.
22. Connect battery.
23. Remove ignition fuse and crank the ignition for a couple of seconds before returning fuse, this will allow the oil to pressurize.
24. Check for leaks before starting car.
25. Have a fire extinguisher handy while starting car.
26. Start vehicle, it may be difficult to start at first.
27. Allow engine to idle until engine warms up.
28. Check for leaks.
29. Take the vehicle for a spin but go easy, check for leaks again after.
30. Enjoy the boost!

James · Jun 17th, 2003, 12:46 PM

THese instructions are for Hotshot kits or the like. I can put up instructions for water cooled center sections if anybody wants it.

Avshi750 · Jun 17th, 2003, 02:52 PM

what kind of hp numbers you making with that setup. cant decide if i want to jdm swap or just turbo my ga16.

James · Jun 17th, 2003, 02:58 PM

dunno yet, just got the intercooler on finally sunday so I'm waiting to get it dynoed... I have to install a shift kit into my auto before I dyno it.....

if I were you I'd just turbo the GA... JDM swaps cost just as much if not more...

Avshi750 · Jun 17th, 2003, 03:06 PM

ya i know a jdm would be way more $$$ no question about it. my project is to get a sentra w/200-250 hp for daily driving and a sentra that is insane with something like a stroked gtir or tomie turbo crate engine (dreaming oh yah)

Nelly17 · Jun 17th, 2003, 09:06 PM

what other turbo kits are there for the ga16de other than the hotshot kit. i cant find any. does anyone know anyone who builds them or are we all gonna have to rig one up or buy the hotshot kit?

James · Jun 17th, 2003, 09:41 PM

There's the protech manifold for teh QG18DE that fits... however downpipe probably won't and you'd have to fabricate everything else... yup, Hotshot kit or build your own! Either way be prepared to spend some bucks!

AznVirus · Jun 18th, 2003, 05:25 PM

is the Hotshots turbo watercooled and oil cooled? good job on the write-up James, would help a lot of people.

James · Jun 18th, 2003, 06:21 PM

I don't think they include lines for the water cooled section but the turbo they sell does have them... not sure, you can call and ask. I think they don't use it because it puts a strain on the cooling system but I haven't noticed a single thing.

**wes** · Jun 19th, 2003, 07:25 PM

Nice write up.

About the vacuum lines for the WG and the BOV. Don;t you have them backwards. Doesn't the wastegate get plumbed in before the TB and the BOV AFTER the TB?

James · Jun 19th, 2003, 08:13 PM

oops you're right... sorry did the write up at work and wasn't near my notes!

btw is the picture coming up? can someone host the picture on something more reliable than yahoo?

rkeith · Jun 22nd, 2003, 11:51 PM

James, youre the man!

Im strongly considering a turbo on my 200 and these instructions are great! One question...
Are you gonna be putting up the IC instructions too?

James · Jun 23rd, 2003, 09:23 AM

well if you get the HS kit the IC should be pretty self explanatory... just connect the pipes. they don't include instructions with theirs... I don't think they remember how they put it together! If you go another IC you'll have to put it together yourself anyways and there are plenty of sites about how to do that with a couple of U bends, which is what I did.

Neil · Jun 23rd, 2003, 01:18 PM

How many hours you figure it would take a pro to do this?

All those extras like gaskets and such, they arent included with the hotshot kit? I thought the kit was pretty much complete with the exception of the JWT ECU.

Also do you think adding the turbo to your car has reduced its reliability at all?