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Forced Induction & Nitrous Oxide Turbocharger, supercharger, and nitrous oxide information

       
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 11:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
nismopro
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ga16de turbo ????????????

ok so far i have the following

ga16de homemade manifold
t3/t4 internally gated 7psi
8" fmic
tial bov
bluebird injectors
safc
greddy turbo timer
ur pulley
3" custom exhaust

how can i run 7psi tuning the safc? i have everything installed but have yet to take it for a ride cause i cant find anyone to tune the safc for the injectors. i asked a couple shops and they said they can do it but i have to pay for dyno time. is this recommended? i just want to run 7psi for right now. is the t3/t4 too big? i have been told so. any help would be appreciated.



p.s. i know the jwt ecu is the way blah blah.... but this is my choice and any useful help i can get is greatly appreciated. and about blowing the engine i have a freshly built one awaiting install so i wanna practice boostin on this one. and get some experience. i installed everything myself just to learn so dont worry about me blowing anything. just if tunning the injectors with the safc. and if anyone has done this. will i need check valves or anything? oh do i have to recirculate the bov?
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 02:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
dundee
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I have never used a SAFC, but the basic procedure would be as follows:

1. Hook up a wideband o2 sensor for to see accurate A/F ratio data.
2. Set the injector output to run rich across the rpm range.
3. With someone else driving decrease the injector output until you achieve the
correct A/F ratio

If you have an upgraded MAF you will have to account for that as well. If you BOV is not recirculated you can use the SAFC to correct for this, though with MAF based engine management it is better to recirculate.

Watch your MAF voltage while boosting. 5.11V is the limit, but I would consider anything over 5.00V as maxed out. If you have using the stock MAF you might want to consider upgrading as 7psi is border line.

chimmike would be able to give you more specfic details. He used a SAFC on his first QG18DET setup. Also check out www.sr20forum.com

Good Luck!
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 04:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
NotAnotherHonda
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ditch that t3/t4 asap.
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95 200sx se. sr20de, gt28r, bb manifold, forge fmic, greddy bov and bc, tial 38mm, walbro 255, apexi tt, 3" exhaust with magnaflow, 3" downpipe, jgy clutch flywheel and fuel rail, msd 50#'s, cobra maf, jwt ecu and s4's, nismo fpr, autometer, nissport adaptors, fal pushers, ur pulley, m/t 22x8x15 et drags.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 05:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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what tommy said, go with a gt28r
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 05:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
NotAnotherHonda
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sell that laggy t3/t4 to a honda boy. those guys are obsessed with those things!
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95 200sx se. sr20de, gt28r, bb manifold, forge fmic, greddy bov and bc, tial 38mm, walbro 255, apexi tt, 3" exhaust with magnaflow, 3" downpipe, jgy clutch flywheel and fuel rail, msd 50#'s, cobra maf, jwt ecu and s4's, nismo fpr, autometer, nissport adaptors, fal pushers, ur pulley, m/t 22x8x15 et drags.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 08:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
chimmike
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and ditch the "homemade manifold"....those things lead to disaster real quick. and poor performance.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 01:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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7 PSI on a T3/T4 will probably max out your MAF VERY quickly which means that the car will run lean. Make sure you are monitoring MAF voltage in addition to the AF ratio. If you are not sure your best bet is to probably use the shop and dyno time to get it right.

Get the car to run right before you go boosting it hard nad switching things around. The BOV should be recirculated to keep the car from stumbling/running rich between shifts. The bitch of it is the Tial BOV cannot easily be recirced.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 02:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
nismopro
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yeah i was thinking gt28 but i got a good deal. i have a friend with a prelude that is interested in it...lol so i guess i am gonna ditch it and get something smaller and a new bov. thanks guys and i have a wideband. how to a monitor maf voltage from it? or it that on the software? it seems simple enough i thinki can handle it.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 02:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismopro
yeah i was thinking gt28 but i got a good deal. i have a friend with a prelude that is interested in it...lol so i guess i am gonna ditch it and get something smaller and a new bov. thanks guys and i have a wideband. how to a monitor maf voltage from it? or it that on the software? it seems simple enough i thinki can handle it.
You either need something to measure it from the consult port like a techtom or you can always tap into the signal wire and monitor it using a multimeter.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 04:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
mrbill
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I've tried the SAFC Route and as I said before
Set-up:
Stock GA16DE Engine
Automatic Tranny
T-25 (Thanks to James)
370cc Injectors (Thanks to Chimmike)
Stock DE ECU
SAFC-II
JGS Tools Exhaust Manifold
Drag Intercooler
2 1/4" Custom intake, IC Piping, and Exhaust
Custom J-Pipe
Turbonetics Evolution External Wastegate
P.I.T. Type H RFL BOV
Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller
240SX MAF (Blow Through)

A word to the wise:

Listen to Wes and everybody else. "AN SAFC CAN'T BE USED TO TUNE YOUR ENGINE PROPERLY AT ANY HIGHER THAN 5 PSI OF BOOST AND STILL BE RELIABLE." You must get a modified ECU to run higher flow rate injectors. I tried and failed. Let my experience help you.

This setup gave me the following results:

@7 psi: 156 whp, 152 wtq
@5 psi: 140 whp, 138 wtq.
Air/Fuel right around 11.8 throughout
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 04:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
nismopro
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so is it still running? how long did it run at 7psi? just asking.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 05:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It's still running strong. It was really lean at 7 psi but at 6 it was the high end of what my tuner called safe. I only left it at 7 psi for a couple of days and then I got scared because I started detonating. I've been running at 5 psi everyday now for almost three months. Almost 8,000 miles and no burning oil, a little bit of lifter noise (but who wouldn't have that at 205,000 miles), and the tranny is still holding strong.

I borrowed some things from a friend that he has to wait for some money to put on his car.

Switched to JWT ECU, 370 cc injectors, Disco Potato, z32 maf and retuned:

5 psi: 151 whp/146 wtq
7 psi: 168 whp/159 wtq
10 psi: 214 whp/191 wtq
12 psi: 228 whp/208 wtq (Trans started slipping)
14 psi: 237 whp/ 214 wtq
18 psi: 258 whp/221 wtq

at 18 psi we had maxed out the injectors and the FMU and the exhaust was a major restriction. I also just about fried my transmission. It was really lean (13.7-14.1). I would not recommend trying this.

If you compare this to Wes's car you can see what a difference the headwork makes.

I've decided that I want to continue the work on the GA just to see what it can do with pistons, rods, etc. I want to blow up the engine in style. I'm also going to do an auto/manual swap.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 05:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbill
It's still running strong. It was really lean at 7 psi but at 6 it was the high end of what my tuner called safe. I only left it at 7 psi for a couple of days and then I got scared because I started detonating. I've been running at 5 psi everyday now for almost three months. Almost 8,000 miles and no burning oil, a little bit of lifter noise (but who wouldn't have that at 205,000 miles), and the tranny is still holding strong.

I borrowed some things from a friend that he has to wait for some money to put on his car.

Switched to JWT ECU, 370 cc injectors, Disco Potato, z32 maf and retuned:

5 psi: 151 whp/146 wtq
7 psi: 168 whp/159 wtq
10 psi: 214 whp/191 wtq
12 psi: 228 whp/208 wtq (Trans started slipping)
14 psi: 237 whp/ 214 wtq
18 psi: 258 whp/221 wtq

at 18 psi we had maxed out the injectors and the FMU and the exhaust was a major restriction. I also just about fried my transmission. It was really lean (13.7-14.1). I would not recommend trying this.

If you compare this to Wes's car you can see what a difference the headwork makes.

I've decided that I want to continue the work on the GA just to see what it can do with pistons, rods, etc. I want to blow up the engine in style. I'm also going to do an auto/manual swap.

GA16 does not have lifters.... Could be timing chain. I am curious to see the dyno's and what they look like from this second setup. What ECU did you use with the Z32 MAF?

As you already know the 370's and fuel pump are maxed where your at....

The other thing is that 7 PSI on a T3/T4 is different than 7 PSI on a T25. Do NOT think because he ran 7 PSI that it will work for you as the larger turbo will move more air.
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Old Dec 13th, 2005, 05:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes
GA16 does not have lifters.... Could be timing chain. I am curious to see the dyno's and what they look like from this second setup. What ECU did you use with the Z32 MAF?

As you already know the 370's and fuel pump are maxed where your at....

The other thing is that 7 PSI on a T3/T4 is different than 7 PSI on a T25. Do NOT think because he ran 7 PSI that it will work for you as the larger turbo will move more air.
I've never torn my engine apart enough to know. You're probably right about the timing chain. My tuner is a honda guy through and through and he was the one who said lifters. We used a JWT Turbo ECU and SAFC-II. I will start posting all of the dyno charts today.

Nismopro Definitely don't think that you can make 7 psi work with the setup that you have. Another guy that lives here in Salt Lake tried using a T3/T4 and an SAFC and he blew up his engine. Tried it again and blew a second one. You are definitely going to have to use either a JWT ECU or a standalone. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do. We took all of my friend's stuff off of my car and put mine back on. So now I'm back to my good ol' 5 psi and it's still fun to drive. I wasn't trying to get crazy power, I just wanted to be able to go up hills and merge with traffic on the freeway. Even at 5 psi I can do those things with ease.
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Old Dec 18th, 2005, 12:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
benflynn
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ditch the ecu and go to www.msefi.com, will cost about 300$ if you have any skills, $175 if you have many. can your wideband datalog? there are good free tuning software to tune the fuel, a good spark tune requires some dyno time, MS can go as far as you can tune, get larger inj. my t3/t4 spools great but it is a 2.3

Last edited by benflynn : Dec 18th, 2005 at 01:01 AM.
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