I changed the fuel filter, timeing tenchiner, oil change, spark plugs, plug wires, ditributer cap, but all it did was make the sound better. If I step on the gas it just dies and right now I have the timing all the way up just to keep it from shuting off. when I start the car it will run untill it warms up then that is when the problem starts.
If your not getting the right A/R ratio when the car warms up, it is more likely the MAF sensor not the O2 sensor. I would check the emmission system first. Check for trouble codes using the ECU diagnostic. You mentioned that when it is warming up it seems fine but once get warm it starts to bog and loose power. I suspect it could be the AIV valve not closing after your car gets warm. Just my guess. An FSM or even a Chilton manual would be helpful at this time.
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"These swaps are done more from desire and learned application with a twist of fate, rather than being orchestrated via a service manual." boost_boy My Cardomain
Have you checked the exhaust, expecially catalytic converters? Sometimes they get clogged and cause loss of power.
I will check the converter first but I was also wondering why the throttle body has coolant hosed to it. I ask that because it gets hot,
the time
ing is set high so the car doesn't die when I have to move it. Right now I can not drive it, only about a block before it warms up and after that happens it just dies when I step on the gas.
If your not getting the right A/R ratio when the car warms up, it is more likely the MAF sensor not the O2 sensor. I would check the emmission system first. Check for trouble codes using the ECU diagnostic. You mentioned that when it is warming up it seems fine but once get warm it starts to bog and loose power. I suspect it could be the AIV valve not closing after your car gets warm. Just my guess. An FSM or even a Chilton manual would be helpful at this time.
after it warms up the engine starts to rev on its own, then it dies. when I have the right timing the car sounds great for a bit, that is until it warms up and dies. Like I said before, I have the timing all the way up just to move the car. And then I have to have the clutch half way steped on so it won't die.
[QUOTE=vaderx]I will check the converter first but I was also wondering why the throttle body has coolant hosed to it. I ask that because it gets hot,
the coolant lines going into the TBI unit have to do with idle. the car is on high idle while cold, as it warms up, the coolant passing through those lines heats a wax pellet idle cam assembly, and allows the idle to come down as the coolant temperature rises.
usually when those lines get plugged, your stuck with a high idle condition. opposite of what you have.
I will check the converter first but I was also wondering why the throttle body has coolant hosed to it. I ask that because it gets hot,
the coolant lines going into the TBI unit have to do with idle. the car is on high idle while cold, as it warms up, the coolant passing through those lines heats a wax pellet idle cam assembly, and allows the idle to come down as the coolant temperature rises.
usually when those lines get plugged, your stuck with a high idle condition. opposite of what you have.
What do you mean by the timing set so high? Is it the base timing, cuz if it is advance too much, you are risking of detonation and will cause engine failure. My guess if you said that the TB gets really hot is that it is basically overheating, causing it to stall. I will set the timing right back, does not matter if you cannot move the car or not. If it is a GA16i, its base timing is 7 BTDC. When engine gets so hot, it starts to pre-ignite and it is kinda an exponential problem, since if it pre-ignite, the ECU will retard the timing everytime it detects a change in temparature, until it basically loses a lot of its power cuz of too much timing retard. I hope I am making some sense.
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"These swaps are done more from desire and learned application with a twist of fate, rather than being orchestrated via a service manual." boost_boy My Cardomain
What do you mean by the timing set so high? Is it the base timing, cuz if it is advance too much, you are risking of detonation and will cause engine failure. My guess if you said that the TB gets really hot is that it is basically overheating, causing it to stall. I will set the timing right back, does not matter if you cannot move the car or not. If it is a GA16i, its base timing is 7 BTDC. When engine gets so hot, it starts to pre-ignite and it is kinda an exponential problem, since if it pre-ignite, the ECU will retard the timing everytime it detects a change in temparature, until it basically loses a lot of its power cuz of too much timing retard. I hope I am making some sense.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
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