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E/CA-Series & GA16i Engines Engine Discussion: 1982-1990 Sentra/Pulsar

       
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Old Apr 13th, 2005, 09:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
winstonsmith
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idle problem - E16s

My E16s has an idle problem that only happens when I start it up. After the car has warmed up it runs fine. When I first start it it either sputters out and dies or the RPMs shoot up to 3000 and stay there. Is there something that controls the idle when the car first starts that is getting stuck open or closed or something maybe? Any ideas what to check? Like I said, once the car is warm it runs great. This only happens when I first start it.

Also I can usually tell when the RPMs are about to soar up to 3000 so I can put it in drive real quick and just keep my foot on the brake. If I do that the RPMs stay low or sometimes the car will sputter out and die again.

Anyone?
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Old Apr 13th, 2005, 10:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There is something that controls the idle, I think its called the idle speed control or something like that. It sits in front of the carb and has a screw to adjust, that could help. You could also have a vacuum leak. And there's a few other things it could be. I suggest you get a hold of a haynes manual or equilvalent, it will go a long way in helping you diagnose.
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Old Apr 14th, 2005, 04:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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try the thing to heat up the gas to economize it. mbe its fried
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Old Apr 14th, 2005, 07:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I found the idle speed control valve like you mentioned and also looked at a hose diagram. One of the hoses from the idle speed control valve was cracked. I replaced it and started the car and it started up normal. Didn't sputter out or shoot up to 3000 RPMs. So it looks like so far so good. I'll give it some time and see if it starts doing it again. Hopefully that was the problem.
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Old Apr 14th, 2005, 11:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Could every well have been.
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Old Apr 18th, 2005, 08:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, crap. That wasn't it. It did it again. It seems to only do this when it's been sitting for a long time like overnight for instance. So does this idle speed control valve also control the idle speed for a cold start? It's actually nice weather here right now, not cold at all but still starts funny after having sat for the night. I checked all the hoses under the air box and around the carburetor. Can't find any cracks on any of them (other than the one I replaced) so I don't think I have a vacuum leak. Could the valve itself get dirty inside or something? It was covered with lots of crud. Should it be cleaned out or something or is there something else that controls the idle when the car first starts up? I've noticed that the idle while in Park/Neutral is fairly high (about 1500 to 2000) and the idle in Drive is much lower (850 to 1000). A little high but closer to where it should be I'd suppose. I'm going nuts! What controls this stuff on the E16s and how do I correct it?
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Old Apr 28th, 2005, 12:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a Chilton's manual and it says the idle speed control valve is only on the E16i. It says nothing about that part on the E16s.

Is the thing I have circled in this picture the part that controls the idle when the car first starts?
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Old Apr 28th, 2005, 12:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winstonsmith
I have a Chilton's manual and it says the idle speed control valve is only on the E16i. It says nothing about that part on the E16s.

Is the thing I have circled in this picture the part that controls the idle when the car first starts?
It may not be called the saem thing, but there is this black thingy in fornt of the carb that has a screw for adjustment, try that.

You could also check for a vacuum leak, sometimes a loose vacuum hose will do it.
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Old May 9th, 2005, 09:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I've been checking for vacuum leaks as well by using carb cleaner on the hoses while the engine is running. I can't find any leaks anywhere but I remembered something someone told me awhile back. He said if you take out the dipstick or remove the oil cap while a car is running and the engine continues to run the same and not sputter then there is a vacuum leak. Is that true? I pulled out my dipstick while the engine was running and nothing happened. I'm not going to even try to remove the oil cap while the engine is running. That's a serious chore getting that thing off. I'd like to find the genius at Nissan who thought the E16 oil cap was a good idea.
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Old May 9th, 2005, 10:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I dunno, its hard to diagnose those EECs sometimes. Keep tring different things, and don't go crazy replacing things, because you could end up spending a lot of money for nothing.

Also, how's your maintance? Is everything in good shape, like fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.? If you need them anyways, that might be a good place to start, just don't be frustrated if doing the tune-up doesn't fix it. Also, if you made an adjustment and it worked good for a while, then didn't that's telling us something, unfortunetly I don't know what.
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Old May 10th, 2005, 01:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winstonsmith
I remembered something someone told me awhile back. He said if you take out the dipstick or remove the oil cap while a car is running and the engine continues to run the same and not sputter then there is a vacuum leak. Is that true? I pulled out my dipstick while the engine was running and nothing happened.

I've never heard of anything like that. I would think that the PCV system would prevent a change in idle when the dipstick is removed. I've pulled the dipstick out on various cars while their running, and the only change I've noticed is that the oil level measures lower.
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Old May 10th, 2005, 09:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messican Mess
I dunno, its hard to diagnose those EECs sometimes. Keep tring different things, and don't go crazy replacing things, because you could end up spending a lot of money for nothing.

Also, how's your maintance? Is everything in good shape, like fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.? If you need them anyways, that might be a good place to start, just don't be frustrated if doing the tune-up doesn't fix it. Also, if you made an adjustment and it worked good for a while, then didn't that's telling us something, unfortunetly I don't know what.
Fuel filter is only a year or so old. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor were all replaced early last summer.

I still have to check out this idle speed control valve or whatever the E16s equivalent is. The part I have circled above in the pic has a screw in the middle of it. I don't know if this is for some type of adjustment or if the screw is what holds it on the car. It's a round, black plastic thing in front of the carb. I haven't had a chance to look at it more yet though. Hopefully I'll get a chance to check it out tomorrow.

Someone also told me to check for vacuum hoses that may look fine but are collapsing when the engine is running. How can I check for that when many of the hoses are underneath the airbox? If I remove the airbox to check for that stuff I'll definitely have a vacuum leak. Some of those hoses connect to bottom of the airbox.
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Old May 10th, 2005, 09:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwolvin
I've never heard of anything like that. I would think that the PCV system would prevent a change in idle when the dipstick is removed. I've pulled the dipstick out on various cars while their running, and the only change I've noticed is that the oil level measures lower.
I was thinking the same thing. I've pulled the dipstick out of other cars when the engine was running and nothing happened. I've had engines stumble when I removed the oil cap though. I'm not doing that to the Pulsar though. That oil cap only comes off when it's 100% necessary.
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Old May 11th, 2005, 02:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winstonsmith
Fuel filter is only a year or so old. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor were all replaced early last summer.

I still have to check out this idle speed control valve or whatever the E16s equivalent is. The part I have circled above in the pic has a screw in the middle of it. I don't know if this is for some type of adjustment or if the screw is what holds it on the car. It's a round, black plastic thing in front of the carb. I haven't had a chance to look at it more yet though. Hopefully I'll get a chance to check it out tomorrow.

Someone also told me to check for vacuum hoses that may look fine but are collapsing when the engine is running. How can I check for that when many of the hoses are underneath the airbox? If I remove the airbox to check for that stuff I'll definitely have a vacuum leak. Some of those hoses connect to bottom of the airbox.
There is a screw on it for adjustment, careful though, I think its made of plastic. Turn it slowly, see if it helps.
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