I have a 1987 Nissan Sentra with a 1.6L engine.
The charging light is coming on dim, and gets a little brighter when I hit the brakes or really gets brighter when I turn on the Rear window defroster.
I have replaced the battery because the garage said it was no good and they tested the alternator and said it seemed okay.
From what I have read here so far it sounds to me like the alternator is starting to go. Am I right or can there possibly be other things to check, Voltage regulator?, Ground?, Bad connection?, etc.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give,
Donatello
When my alternator went bad, autozone still tested it good(on 3 different occasions with 3 different peple testing it.) so....... Theyre tests arent always right.
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95 200sx SOLD
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Yeah first thing make sure the belt and the belt tension are good. If they are the alternator is likely on its way out. Mine was doing the exact same thing. A few weeks later it died entirely.
the biggest problem with testing is that everywhere you only bench test it.....it needs to be tested in the vehicle for the things that everyone has been listing such as low tension and bad connections. You could have a burned up wire somewhere or just to much corosion, or a seriously bad ground from the engine.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
well already have this trouble i'ts the end of ur alternator probably
check it withh a multimeter
umm....you can't test the alternator with a multimeter. you'll blow a fuse with a multimeter...unless you're going to measure volts which doesn't tell you enough.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
...with the voltmeter u can have a good idea if the alternator is good or not ..
you can see if its up at 14 volts or little more....but reading amps is best, and diode testing.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
I just had this problem no more than 2 weeks ago. If you cant get a way to test for amperage even using volts and then turing on all the electrical things in the car (sterio, heat, rear defrost etc.) see if it drops, lower than i think about 12 or so and it might be your alternator. My battery light just came on dimly at first but begain to get brighter, so it was a slow death for my alternator, this sounds like yours. Like you said when i turned stuff on the light got brighter. Right now you may have enough amps to do basic things (spark some heat etc.) but as time goes on you will lose this. In my case i was running a 50 amp alternator and only producing 20 amps. (this was caused by 2 of the diodes being dead, it works in 3 120 degree cycles, so 2 of the cycles were not working properly this gave me 1/3 of my amp output.)
Get a electrial system check,its very cheap and will eliminate the other components of the electrical system.
This was all my experence anyways, and all is well now i got a new rebuilt alternator for 60 bucks canadian, so its not that bad of a hit to take.